澳洲咖啡師訪談錄(二)
來自專欄和TRCL一起聊咖啡2 人贊了文章
時隔一個月,有多少人在期待著我們這一期的澳洲咖啡師訪談?還是惦記著看帥哥?今天,為大家請到的是另一名澳洲當地的帥小伙兒,Corie Joel Sutherland。老規矩,帥不帥不是我說了算了,先爆照。
Corie,曾經的音樂人,如今的咖啡師,並且從前年開始業餘時間在悉尼大學攻讀歷史、政治、哲學等學科。幾乎悉尼所有有名的幾家咖啡店都有過他工作的身影:Mecca、Campos、Toby』s Estate…最後和自己的哥哥開辦了屬於自己的咖啡店和烘培廠。因為咖啡師這個職業,他得以和各種各樣的交談,也經歷了很多開店時期的各種問題。持續不斷的思考讓他最終想要多做一些和民眾關係更大的事情,這也是為什麼他選擇重返校園,繼續充實自己。
你做咖啡幾年了?為什麼會愛上咖啡?
——I have been making coffee for about 9 years altogether. It all began when I was waiting in line at the original Campos store in Newtown. I was only 20 at the time and could not understand what all the fuss was about. That soon changed after I took my first sip of coffee (without sugar). Sweet and delicate, and slightly fruity. Like a drug I was hooked.
——我做咖啡的年份加起來有足足9年了。一切都開始於我在位於Newtown的Campos本店裡排隊的時候,那時我才20歲,不太了解咖啡。但是在我第一口咖啡(不加糖)入口之後,一切都改變了。那杯咖啡的甘甜、細膩和微微的水果味,讓我深陷其中。
——咖啡是一種有趣的飲品,帶著他那豐富卻又略帶充滿神秘色彩的歷史。它的神奇之處在於這種原本只是專屬於一個默默無名的小鎮的必需品到了十六世紀居然成為了風靡世界、廣受歡迎的飲品。
為什麼會在澳洲做咖咖啡師?
——I originally became a barista after I moved to Sydney. I was a busker and a musician, but that doesnt make a lot of money and I thought that being a barista was a cool job. I would sit in cafes, like campos, Tobys estate and Mecca, back in 2008, and thought it was such a cool place to be and felt this is what I want to do.——在我搬到悉尼之後成為了一名咖啡師。在這之前,我曾是街頭巡演音樂師,不過這掙不了什麼錢,所以我想做一名咖啡師應該會不錯。時間回到2008年,當我坐在諸如Campos、Toby』s estate、Mecca這樣的咖啡館時,覺得這真是一個很酷的地方,而我應該在這裡工作。
你到過別的國家工作過嗎?你覺得與澳洲咖啡市場有什麼區別?
——I have unfortunately never had the opportunity to work as a barista overseas, but I have travelled to many countries and made many observations. Coffee culture is very different from country to country as many cultures have incorporated it into their daily lives in many different ways. The Scandinavians for example were some of the first to adopt a lighter or softer developed coffee, and incorporated that into their hyyge or break time tradition. Coffee shops exploded all over Japan after World War Two, through military expats and small time Japanese enthusiasts. Coffee in England is re emerging as a huge part of the culture after being dormant for many years. I could go on and on, however, of one spends a little time in another country they can easily see what sets other coffee cultures apart from each other.——很遺憾我並沒有在海外做過咖啡師,不過我去過很多國家遊歷。在不同的國家與國家之間,咖啡文化也有很大的不同,這是因為許多文化需要通過不同的方式與當地人的日常生活結合起來。比如,斯堪的納維亞人也許是第一個接受輕度淺度咖啡的人群,為了配合他們Hyyge(一種丹麥的舒適愜意的生活方式)或者傳統的休閑生活;咖啡在二戰以後,通過軍事外派員和小規模的咖啡迷們在日本廣泛傳播;咖啡在英國沉寂了許多年以後,作為文化的重要組成部分捲土重來。我還可以繼續說很多,當然,就算是只在某個海外國家呆一小段時間的人仍舊可以明顯感覺到每個國家之間咖啡文化的不同。
你覺得一杯好喝的咖啡需要包含幾個元素?
——There are so many factors that need to be accounted for when making a good cup of coffee. And a "good" cup is very subjective as cultural differences and different subjective palates will discern what makes a good cup of coffee. The quality of the coffee plant itself is of major concern as genera, species, altitude, ripeness, and the milling process all heavily contribute to the overall quality of coffee. People should always remember that coffee is an agricultural product and therefore rather volatile season to season.——要做一杯好咖啡牽涉到太多方面的問題。而且,由於不同的文化使得「好」咖啡是一個很主觀的概念,而人們不同的品味又決定著該如何去做這一杯「好」咖啡。咖啡的主要處理過程包含了品種、生長海拔、烘培和研磨,這些都是影響咖啡品質的重要因素。人們應當一直記得咖啡作為一種農作物,隨著季節年份的轉換,始終在變化著。
Being a barista essentially comes down to understanding mathematics and having great customer service skills. Ideal coffee extraction is another one of those subjective ends of coffee, as each barista will have their preferences. However, if one uses the technology at hand and has a good understanding of tds, extraction percentages, and understands that brew strength is about how much one dilutes their beverage set against the solubility of their coffee, one can easily create a very palpable cup.
——烘培是一道最主觀同時相比其它處理過程最應受到重視,需要細心研究的咖啡處理程序。不完全烘培、過度烘培、烤焙都會影響到甚至是品質最好的在其他步驟中都被完美處理的生豆,使它原本的光彩蒙上了一層灰。理解熱力學、生物化學再加上絕好的鑒賞力會使得烘培結果達到一個驚人的水準。
而作為咖啡師,一言以蔽之需要的是數學技能和強大的客戶服務技巧。由於每個咖啡師擁有自己的理念,理想的萃取方式是另一個主觀的過程。當然,如果誰有一定的咖啡技術,熟悉各種參數、萃取率,了解口感的強度取決於怎樣的咖啡稀釋比例,那他便能夠很輕鬆地做出一杯讓人眼前一亮的咖啡。
想對咖啡愛好者說些什麼?
——What I would say to coffee lovers is this: do not critically evaluate a coffee unless you are a professional, just enjoy the coffee you like to drink and forget about the pretence many place on the drink. That being said; many people also do not understand that different coffees will taste different so if your looking for something very consistent stick with a blend or a bigger coffee company, if your wanting to be more adventurous try many of the plethora of great micro roasterys that can be found in almost any city of the world, if you look hard enough. A consistently good cup is far superior to a very inconsistent great one.——我想對咖啡愛好者說的是:不要嚴格地去審視一杯咖啡除非你是專業人士,你只須盡情地享受你喜歡的咖啡,忘了那些虛有其表的東西吧!話雖如此,許多人仍舊不知道不同的咖啡嘗起來是完全不一樣的!如果你只喜歡始終保持同一風味和品質的咖啡,那麼就堅持選擇同一種拼配或者大公司的咖啡;如果你嚮往更加多的與眾不同的體驗,那麼努力尋找下,全世界各地都能找到非常棒的小型烘培廠。我個人認為,一杯風味品質穩定的好咖啡要遠勝於雖然美味卻不能保持穩定的咖啡。
自學咖啡,從哪一步開始?
——Depends on wether you are a home connoisseur or wanting to be a coffee professional. Start with buying a few of the great coffee books, educate yourself, or attend public cupping or many of the great coffee workshops that coffee companies hold. An espresso machine is an expensive investment so if your not going to delve deep in it, just go to your local and enjoy it there. Buy a filter coffee brewer and experiment at home. The coffee rabbit hole is very deep, just decide how deep you want to dive before you do would be my advice.——這取決於你想做一個民間掃地僧還是咖啡行業的專業人士。可以從買一些好的咖啡書籍看起來開始,或者參加杯測會、咖啡公司舉辦的研習會。意式咖啡機會是一筆昂貴的投資,所以如果你不是沉陷其中的話,直接去找你所在地的咖啡店,然後在那兒品嘗咖啡。也可以買一些手沖咖啡的設備,自己在家做咖啡。咖啡是個很深很深的坑,我建議在你做任何行動之前考慮好,你想入坑多深吧。
認識Corie已經有六七個年頭,很難想像一個原本崇尚自由,動不動就拿起吉它來上一曲的大男孩,讀書時無所事事,高中一畢業就按耐不住性子獨自出門闖蕩,現在居然願意乖乖坐在大學課堂里,利用所有的業餘時間如饑似渴地開始本科學業。也許他早已把咖啡上升到了人文情懷的境界了吧。
所以,他的回答一絲不苟,又充滿了遷思回慮。現在他的夢想是為澳洲的咖啡師和其他餐飲行業的員工們謀福利,希望政府能夠重視這些在別人休息時還在忙碌的人們,讓我們祝福他能夠早日完成學業,夢想成真吧!
喜歡請不要有所保留,請毫無顧忌地點贊,我將繼續堅持咖啡師訪談這個板塊!也歡迎關注我們的公眾號TRCLfromAU,對待咖啡,我們是認真的。
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