中國從什麼時候開始流行吃雞？

芥末墩兒：#腦洞#隨著最近幾年健身熱JjVhMjk3MDZiMWEwYWM=，雞胸肉好像已經成了網紅MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKkGa8y7mi。中國人到底有多愛吃雞肉？雞肉是怎麼一步步登上餐桌的？1e7dd5a7124571b8daee33c9757b9989acfb4e44

587c14595b8133452f762897ad66af9b

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHfZ2ypa2i

更愛吃鴨的值班編輯/馬馬馬MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHfZ69tbmi

XjVhMjk3MDZiMTIwMmQ=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHgKqx272i

中國人確實愛吃雞MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qb6dn6CwyKGi。f2c82abec579e0b06b9228470bb681c5

c7a29ee4dab43b2edb61096935a49932

數據顯示02f454c4cf9815754ba899210cbfac6b，2016年中國的雞肉產量是1230萬噸KjVhMjk3MDZiMWEzNTU=，僅次於美國和巴西MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKfK2yuLGi，佔了世界雞肉總產量的14%QDVhMjk3MDZiMWZiMWM=。c63008f60803376bdd05eb843486e85d

KjVhMjk3MDZiMTI2NmY=

同年7f35c348f69b32f905327ae6537ed965，中國人吃掉了1234萬噸雞肉a1bafa02f55168c72ee87a62e03984d6cd3782de，排在世界第二MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qb2Hmq2woqGi，只比最愛吃雞的美國少了三千萬噸MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qb6ggGawsqGi。02603243f97ad8c9cdcc7841d0579fb1

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHgGa9uKmi

364320f30ec6194a358fc790a81cf34f3aa812de

XjVhMjk3MDZiMTJiNTU=

●2013—2017全球雞肉產量消費量152e6d458cd33de12071be09a5d2c01bfb1a0452

JDVhMjk3MDZiMTJlMjI=

雖然我們暫時不能和以區區三億多人口MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKfGex262i，吃掉世界上五分之一雞的美國相比db6e9b8f1c0e13ff0539d9ab4e271377，但是從坐月子才能煲只老母雞補補身子c168a358aab1d2d7be0eb35d294ce07e，到各種炸雞風靡大街小巷44e375bb11aeb7badf74230e9a2332c9820ecbe2，1b74f855d71df800fd7d34383d3d031ebd150ff4

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHgaC9pc-i

雞fc6cf028d8358fd8ba10e3031b4318549eefd5e6，顯然變成了中國人餐桌上最常見的食物之一MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKkZ28tcui。7a4b5dd565c4f8b407487cd41142b992

2d7a73cbde2c71de6e5e8aef62043a6b0c2369c9

QDVhMjk3MDZiMTM0ZDQ=

be89e02a91439b6ecb4ea25a8e164ec6

574981c1da701c9f9c81dc5f531b5d733b388ca3

為什麼中國人愛吃雞？1845347c9b1c93bb1968e18d9543150c6739aeb3

50d282f94f699465cae8fe537e1f9426

雞的營養價值高bdc89eb12e071034da1502efacc5a498，生長周期短a4af5bbb24cfda30175339372687edb6，最主要的ca9627cc951de24923a9b2cbeeee6caffbb9e1de，NWEyOTcwNmIxM2I3MA==

IzVhMjk3MDZiMTNjYjk=

還是便宜f20bcc54178fa7eef8c4b36ed045bfd7。MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHhZ6wpami

國家統計局的數據顯示68d329159920330125bbacd6aa1fc794，今年11月73ac559ee132c8347196fce5cca3ac1975842f56，中國50座城市雞肉均價22.77元一公斤cadd401616dc38e6c37941866dc26c565850919c，不光是牛羊肉的三分之一XjVhMjk3MDZiMWI3MGY=，甚至比豬肉還便宜五塊錢MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGKgGaxtcei，只比鴨肉貴一點QDVhMjk3MDZiMWZmZjc=。4743050ed5f30bccf78064b19bab9359fd15a53a

93b564d891fcd0b713d2436a77e99ca5b46b2655

JDVhMjk3MDZiMTQxZTM=

b1531a9a2dd13e0ac364485a94685c93ca2cd1b3

JTVhMjk3MDZiMTQ0Njc=

●鹽水鴨：「我不高興了」e5dba5b7dcefa68a06ba8ebe881bf382dbdd459f

那麼MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKgGeypami，MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHiGS9y72i

JDVhMjk3MDZiMTQ4MTE=

中國的第一隻雞3a956471488034dd75be5c8b2e84582a44da8e5f，是從哪來的？9630a33d7da11b6e7168dcc58fc9fd21

5db7cb39384a29a9497f8bea339b9aed

現代家雞的起源是紅原雞fd62b647b036b503244daac50fc056a6a39c25f8，達爾文認為印度最早馴養了紅原雞8b7749d11e7c7f89974115500ac05a54，中國雞則是大約3400年前從印度傳進來的MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGdeKqxpcui。b18cde9a34407b02005376f8038ba278

18c7096da86e19748f13c323784c0173

b1480b3ce67016afc4a332fb565c2f8d145300ea

JjVhMjk3MDZiMTRmN2U=

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHiaC827Gi

●機智的紅原雞7dc786ca4115e4dfc12b8d8c338ebdfb728fdd67

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHjKywk7Gi

不過MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKgZ6xta2i，MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHjK2ypbGi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHjGOytbmi

中國科學家們有不同意見MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGdeKuxy72i。e1ef8f8c3736c6f7551d516d43e5bff1c47ace19

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHjGW9y7mi

在距今七八千年前的新石器時代遺址dc97abf70b671320e5c94bc29269330d，比如河北磁山遺址、山東省北辛遺址、河南省裴李崗遺址里MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKgaC8tbWi，都出土了很像雞骨頭的廚餘垃圾c2be4a7f06ca7980328e35baccb33f4d930e1f3a。MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHjGewy72i

32f2234b94e58ee59dea5ca8f585ce2e

雞骨頭過於細小MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qb2teZ69sqGi，判斷具體年份很困難71ccc2fcfd577a9d76c4ba7f610c1cc9，於是科學家們一直在爭論這些「雞骨頭」到底是現代雞的曾曾曾曾祖父母留下的IzVhMjk3MDZiMWM0M2M=，還是幾百年前某個過路村民隨便吐在泥地里JTVhMjk3MDZiMWM1NjQ=，又偶然混進了新石器土壤層里的MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGdeGSwqL2i。IzVhMjk3MDZiMTViNzM=

595f879bbbf35d8dbab101daf2a7b8db46b0dbdc

不過無論如何MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKhGS8tcui，現在都還沒法證實或證偽一種可能性：中國雞和印度沒什麼關係02f3c527e90b520d6300db8f8baa8aac，早在七八千年前MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKhGewqL2i，黃河流域和西南地區的先民們MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKhGiwk6mi，就分別獨立馴化了雞MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qrF3kGex2KGi。4cb11b38cd3a3604291f163870913c12

e80d5d27b5793eb8aaf8c7a4e188d798

雖然不知道誰是第一個養雞的中國人MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKhZuxy62i，但是到了公元前641年e641ad1b3f6b59e297930b8ac0d7a5c8，雞作為家禽3256d8c7e5c6e30bde4a185c0386e490e9f25db0，已經相當常見了83477afb282bde57d8c6b8b0b080fa3ae9be7a57，還在《左傳》里同馬、牛、羊、豚、犬一起c4740d8f308d165e02e7d405f4560225，被稱為「六畜」1659b402992843fb130da7a2687ee4bcdd71f95d。d3b2e69375820178af4abd8540afb2fd

051e955a99e97c19807b3a79fce3c8ca

人們養雞MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKiKqx262i，d5157a34b21e7c121fdaed6accc2122f

NWEyOTcwNmIxNjQzNg==

第一個目的當然是吃3fa5b3ba36c67fd0651e74d7b455d516。KjVhMjk3MDZiMTY1Nzg=

161ee8ff3bed47c9a8d90a71d694304a294dd538

春秋時代MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qb53fZ2ysqGi，長江中下游的吳、越地區就有了中國第一個大型養雞場aafc063f77840aebd7adcff5252b74c0，為勾踐伐吳提供戰備物資01841a4327c08220d965f4e4799e41ce8ca79783。5343625d0ed87f8f222db13660917609a262af5d

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHkGexpami

其他地方的老百姓們XjVhMjk3MDZiMWQ1MTY=，也多多少少在後院養了雞QDVhMjk3MDZiMjBkMzY=。082449108ddefe7b641648f46409e203

6561b092ec780a198f77a9286e60b466

雞在當時的人民生活中重要到什麼地步呢：孟子在教訓梁惠王的時候IzVhMjk3MDZiMWQ2Mzk=，特別提到「雞、豚、狗、彘之畜afc7a5bb9fa37781b6b1f6b7ae6a1b26，無失其時e59ab1b505bef7666b6ccf02945a6b50，七十者可以食肉矣」c5e379cf4fb46c857ada26a8f4b12c966e0a3324，能吃肉能下蛋IzVhMjk3MDZiMWRhZWQ=，保證長者晚年幸福的重任9bb8d7f645f7ad7c5dd76d6996c3906f，就落在雞身上QDVhMjk3MDZiMjBlOTI=。444f45e0202dcf9f81dd8d66b5b2ee7237b6b05f

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHkZ6wtcei

而到了西漢JjVhMjk3MDZiMWRkMzg=，家養雞已經分化出不同品種：北方和巴蜀人養雞主要為了吃肉7af419e0a023b66c005a157ffe7006a1ea834610，南方人養雞主要為了吃蛋d96a041f5e6178693fb778761bcd4d95，a8ace8c173b001f4029749e6be88a5898c200b10

QDVhMjk3MDZiMTcwOWI=

而所有人都喜歡看鬥雞JDVhMjk3MDZiMjBmZGU=。db34b48dfe02e6bf990c2bc73f9eb0f4

MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qbKtgKy8sqGi

020abcc51083cd562b477a76b2b40c4e

c69063627d281aff662ef407eeb03618

NWEyOTcwNmIxNzcxZg==

●鬥雞MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHmmaxy72i

42f279e39a117c3f7bfa75bdf66a6ab6

其實MDAwMDAwMDAwMH6Qfd-FtsbbgqN7qb56kZ-xsqGi，除了吃雞和鬥雞MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKjKuwtaWi，c0631d76753c20fad881381b265bb076

QDVhMjk3MDZiMTdjMDQ=

中國古人還崇拜雞ee6d1439505e2b142dc696abfe956f3ee5fffcc0。f2bbb7b7ba5d6c1779bb066209408a5259f0071b

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHm56yqLmi

西漢時47875db3e8e578cef67d8530e80bcdf7，人們提出雞有「文武勇仁信五種」美德0d1475255d09fe9f569bd432d9777929，可以說是鳥中君子MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGdfKu8uK2i。MDAwMDAwMDAwMHp9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHm5-8272i

NWEyOTcwNmIxODEwNg==

人們結盟的時候喝雞血MDAwMDAwMDAwMHujjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKjGO8y6Wi，大赦天下叫「金雞放赦」f02dd78a1defea72fbc8a2b998b5cb54839161e8，祭祀時有錢就用豬牛羊eadbe283ad01b59978be12cdae5b2c71，沒錢也要用雞鴨魚XjVhMjk3MDZiMjEzZTE=。e40f7c1a6abb6ae0a5c96e51b21be38c

JTVhMjk3MDZiMTgzNjg=

用雞獻祭、占卜和立盟誓這些習慣4e4aff9a863b6c0a3fbc94c1e1719cd6b9a14f21，現在還存在於許多少數民族IzVhMjk3MDZiMWVhNjU=，比如彝族和瑤族的傳統文化中MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGdfGOwy8-i。MDAwMDAwMDAwMIijjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHnq28uLWi

f2ae026352f90d87bd62d27c738fd0dac835f6c9

766725b170ef579eeaf61f671f906e121ba89b8c

MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHnmaw27Wi

dda880c76cf3cae04e9de71b0cf92eea

中國人傳統的吃雞方式主要是煲湯、醬鹵和拿來炒菜MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKjZu8uK2i，對雞翅、雞腿、雞脖子的喜愛程度977a6cb5701163e69d0630a1669d6ec900e48e42，也一直都比乾柴不入味的雞胸肉高b694f2e0189c6d1c356300716aba8d3f3be6b932。04066e102c5509e69733440e83f93216

5326475d17ff070211144deda21b4f5f0fdc11d8

八九十年代的時候MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKjZ29y6mi，北京全市50%的生雞翅、雞腿、雞脖子是被市民家庭買走的MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGKjZ-wta2i，生雞胸肉的家庭消費量卻只有30%06925d9371dcc7ceb241bdca7eab2ef3de7b8844，剩下那70%雞胸肉384a094b584447826bc5bedf9fa87b67，都被食品廠買去做雞肉腸和各種加工食品了MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmzjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGdfGW9pa2i。d97ca86ffedb1c3a7da414ce766a5f569bcea58e

d1f2ed76df0ecce2107b9ad7e9210910

直到1987年ITVhMjk3MDZiMWYyOWU=，第一家肯德基在北京前門開業MDAwMDAwMDAwMHmNjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKkKy9tbGi，才為中國人打開了美式炸雞的新世界大門；IzVhMjk3MDZiMThmN2M=

22335c1960d6c2675189a031ae9e9c1c

等到健身熱席捲白領圈MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGKkGOwpcei，MDAwMDAwMDAwMIF9js6DzM6XgXqMmrGHoqq9y6Wi

MDAwMDAwMDAwMHqjjs6DzM6XgXqMmrGHoqywy6Wi

被人嫌棄的雞胸肉也搖身一變成了網紅食品；b480c81aa3ae6e1d9a602e33677811f9fba84956

2a29f82119b2f9f7ea93c43e2163181b5fc2cffd

而大型養雞場和速凍雞肉1b013a3501d8c6982d220923a91e3312，更讓越來越多城市人過上了沒見過雞跑70fc53e63ba5d192c638aa4a200749b8f6535276，只吃過雞肉的日子f805a5d4f27f0db3cc4fedab614f9b635a0c0730。NWEyOTcwNmIxOTZlNw==

NWEyOTcwNmIxOTgzNg==

2144c20d6011b7db78db0172f3ac5734ecbd098e

JjVhMjk3MDZiMTlhOGM=

bfd46bfeeab1c11917332b143142954c

●難吃的東西會讓你瘦哦QDVhMjk3MDZiMTljZTI=

71e4ca14297eda8493912de073440f7c

ITVhMjk3MDZiMTlmMzU=