色彩變幻與權力平衡：漫話朝鮮王朝時期服飾中的禮儀

蔡濟恭像 | 李命基 | 公元1789年

絹本設色| 英國大英博物館藏

朝鮮王朝時期的社會深深植根於新儒家思想，極為重視社會關係的等級方面。服飾文化則深受等級和禮儀的影響，根據個人等級和禮儀場合的不同，人們穿戴相應材質和風格的服飾。

Joseon society was deeply rootedin Neo-Confucianism, so great emphasis was placed on rank and class in social relationships. Joseonclothing culture was heavily influenced by considerations of rank andritual, and different materials and garment types were used according to anindividual』s class and the type of ritual at which it would be worn.

大英博物館藏蔡濟恭像，頭戴烏紗帽，身穿寬大的淺粉色團領衣，雙手置於腿上，手腳均遮蓋於衣物之下，其中粉紅色的外套尤為有趣。

In theportraitofChae Je-gong in the British Museum collection, hishands, which rest naturally betweenhis knees, are concealed by the deepfolds of his clothing, as are his feet. Heis dressed in a long, flowing, light-pinkgarment with a round collar, and iswearing a shaped black hat,thepink overcoat is of particular interest.

因在赤古里外穿有袍服，可將蔡濟恭歸於兩班（貴族士大夫）或中人之列，在半透明外袍下描繪出來的藍色內衣痕迹，顯示出繪畫者的高超技巧。這種內、外衣的結合是兩班文化的顯著特徵，並且可能可以追溯到統一新羅時期發展起來的禁奢模式。

The fact that Chae is depicted wearing a po over his jeogoriplaces him in the yangbanor junginclass. The artist』sskill is revealed in the depiction of traces of a blue undercoat that show through the translucent outer po. This under/overcoat combination was a distinctive feature of yangbanculture, and maywell date back to the sumptuary codes that evolved in the Unified Silla period (668-935).

外袍圓形領口內的白領是朝鮮王朝服飾的顯著特徵，而其外套的圓領清楚表明蔡濟恭的社會等級之高，因為幾乎所有兩班穿著的各類袍服都是左側斜對繫於右側之上，只有一種袍服帶有這種圓領或團領，僅在朝時才會穿。

The white collar visible above the circular neckline of the outer powas a distinctive feature of Joseon clothing. The circular collar of the overcoat is significant because nearly all of the many types of po worn by yangbanfastened diagonally left-over-right, only one type had a round collar like this: the danryeong，literally 『round neckline』, which was only wornat court and is thus a clear indication of Chae』s rank.

從團領可確認他是官員，賜服上沒有補子，不能據此推斷官階，但其冠帽兩翼上清晰的雲紋圖案提供了一條線索。冠帽用單層精細黑絲覆蓋，後面附有真絲覆蓋的雙翼，而只有高級官員才能佩戴產生此種雲紋效果的雙層冠帽。腰帶的裝飾圖版可以更清楚地顯示官階，蔡濟恭腰帶上的犀角紋飾表明其等級比那些腰帶上裝金飾銀的官員要高。此外，雖無表示等級的補子，賜服的顏色仍為他是高級官員提供了進一步的證據。

Chae』s danryeongconfirms that he was an official, but the absence of hyungbaeon his sibokmeans that his rank cannotbe deduced in this way. The distinct moiré pattern on the wings of his otherwise typical officials』hat provides a clue, though. These hats, or samo,were covered in a single layer of fine black silk, with two silk gauze-covered wings attached to the back. Only senior officials were afforded the double layer that would produce this moiréeffect. Rank was more clearly displayed by the decorative plates that adorned officials』belts. The rhinoceros-horn pattern on Chae』s indicates that he ranked higher than those whose belts were decorated with gold or silver. Moreover, while lacking rank badges, the color of Chae』s sibok does provide further evidence that he was a high-ranking official.

蔡濟恭賜服上的淺粉紅色有何寓意呢？各級朝廷官員所穿官服的顏色在李氏朝鮮初期就已經規定了，並在一四八五年頒行的《經國大典》中得到細化。其中的禁奢條令為不同等級的朝廷官員指定了紅、藍、綠等顏色，但這些條令似乎並沒有被嚴格遵守。一五○四年，燕山王子禁止在官服中使用紅色；僅在八年之後，因為考慮到過於奢侈有違儒家的節儉思想，朝鮮中宗再次禁止使用染色尤其是深色調的布。

What is the significance of the light- pink colour of Chae』s sibdk?The colours to be worn by each rank of court official were established at the beginning of the Joseon period and specified in the 『Great Code for Administration』 (Gyeongguk daejeon), promulgated in 1485. The sumptuary regulations mandated red, blue and green for different ranks of court officials, but these regulations do not appear to have been strictly adhered to. In 1504，the reigning Prince Yeonsan (r. 1494-1506) forbade the use of red for officials』 garments; just 8 years later, it was forbidden again by King Jungjong (r. 1506-44)，who admonished against the use of cloth dyed in particularly deep hues, considered excessively luxurious and thus in contravention of Confucian principles of frugality.

在完全禁止使用紅團領時，朝鮮中宗有些猶豫，因為他明白習俗不可能輕易被法令改變。作為染料的紅花在朝鮮半島大量生長，染色工藝很簡單，上層階級也喜歡穿紅色。古習俗果然又復興起來。一六○一年，朝鮮宣祖下令將高級官員的紅色賜服換成淺粉色。此決定做出之前曾有過很多爭論，由於粉紅色不是五行之色，一些官員認為它對於國家要員而言並非吉祥之色。他們喜歡與東方有聯繫的藍色，而藍色也與朝鮮本身相關聯。但考慮到使用紅花染料的傳統之悠久而盛行，宣祖決定允許高級官員穿著淺粉色官服。

King Jungjong had been hesitant to prohibit the use of red danryeongentirely because he understood that customs could not easily be changed by legislation. The safflower (honghwa)used as dye grew abundantly on the Korean peninsula, the dyeing process was easy, and the upper classes enjoyed wearing red. Indeed, the old custom was resumed. In 1601, King Seonjo(r.1567-1608) ordered high officials to replace their red sibok with light-pink ones. Much debate preceded this decision.Some officials thought light pink would not be an auspicious colour for those in high national office, because it was not one of the colours associated with the five cardinal points. They favoured blue, which was associated with the east, as was Joseon itself. However, mindful of the long and popular tradition of using safflower-red dyes, King Seonjo decided to allow their use for light-pink garments for high officials.

一七四六年，朝鮮英祖恢復了較低級別官員身穿紅團領的權力，高級官員仍被要求穿淺粉色。一七五七年，英祖又恢復了《經國大典》中為較低級別官員的官服規定的藍色和綠色，將紅色留給國王，淺粉色還是留給高級官員。這一規定似乎正好維持了權力的平衡，因而對此再也沒有產生過更多爭論。當三十二年後繪製蔡濟恭肖像畫時，他便被描繪成身穿淺粉色的團領袍服。

In 1746, King Yeongjo (r. 1724-1776) restored the right of lower-ranking officials to wear red danryeong,but high-ranking officials were required to wear light pink. In 1757,Yeongjo returned to the blue and green specified in the Gyeongguk daejeonfor the uniforms of lower-ranking officials, leaving red for the king and light pink for higher officials. This legislation seems to have struck the right balance, as there was no further debate on this subject, and 32 years later, when Chae』s portrait was painted, he was depicted wearing a light-pink danryeong.

——摘自《服飾中的禮儀：英藏李氏朝鮮<蔡濟恭像>》，《美成在久》第6期，第78-83頁。