第157回：廟宇神殿湮沒叢林，你中有我我中有你

來自專欄究天人之際，通古今之變，成建博之言

仙劍波斯臥龍崗|皇氏古建築大全

HUANG JUMBO HERITAGE LIST

第壹部卷二越南柬埔寨手稿篇

第157回：廟宇神殿湮沒叢林，你中有我我中有你

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晚上吃完飯之後我跟隊友聊天時，又提到昨天乘客時經過當地的一個朝鮮博物館的事情，大家都很好奇，是什麼讓神秘的朝鮮能在柬埔寨有存在感呢？

其實我仔細研究了一下，還真發現朝鮮在柬埔寨是很有影響力的，三年前朝鮮在世界性的旅遊勝地柬埔寨吳哥窟投資了1500萬美元（約135億朝鮮圓）建造的文化歷史博物館正式對外開放。

當時英國《獨立報》引用柬埔寨《金邊郵報》的報道，說朝鮮在吳哥窟遺址群所在的柬埔寨旅遊城市遏粒建造了「偉大全景博物館」。朝鮮以將「偉大全景博物館」捐贈給柬埔寨為條件，獲得了10年的運營權，將賺取入場費。

由朝鮮萬壽台創造社主導建設的該博物館在朝鮮海外事業中屬於最大規模。博物館裡有寬120米、高13米的大型壁畫，壁畫描寫的是在8到15世紀迎來鼎盛時期的高棉帝國時代的日常生活、文化和歷史。

博物館也展示了白頭山風景和朝鮮已逝最高OOOOOOO出生的房屋繪畫作品。另外，該博物館還配備了3D電影館和「VIP室」。經濟困難的朝鮮在吳哥窟直接建立博物館有兩個目的：賺取外匯的同時擴大對柬埔寨的外交影響力。

我們返回酒店之後，隊友投訴說今天的導遊中文太差了，瀏覽吳哥窟時講解不清，讓大家無法對吳哥窟的歷史有清楚的認識，無奈我只好給隊友做了一個總結，梳理了一下吳哥窟的淵源。

《皇氏古建築大全》第2222：吳哥窟（Angkor Wat）又稱吳哥寺，位於柬埔寨，被稱作柬埔寨國寶，是世界上最大的廟宇，同時也是世界上最早的高棉式建築。吳哥窟原始的名字是Vrah Vishnulok，意思為「毗濕奴的神殿」，

中國佛學古籍稱之為「桑香佛舍」。12世紀時，吳哥王朝國王蘇耶跋摩二世（Suryavarman II）希望在平地興建一座規模宏偉的石窟寺廟，作為吳哥王朝的國都和國寺。因此舉全國之力，花了大約35年建造，真是慢工出精品。它是吳哥古迹中保存得最完好的建築，以建築宏偉與浮雕細緻聞名於世。

1992年聯合國教科文組織將吳哥古迹列入世界文化遺產。此後吳哥窟作為吳哥古迹的重中之重，成為了柬埔寨一張亮麗的旅遊名片。一百多年來，包括中國在內的世界各國投入大量資金和人力在吳哥窟的維護工程上，以保護這份世界文化遺產。

吳哥窟的造型，已經成為柬埔寨國家的標誌，展現在柬埔寨的國旗上。吳哥窟的整體布局，從空中就可以一目了然：一道明亮如鏡的長方形護城河，圍繞一個長方形的滿是鬱鬱蔥蔥樹木的綠洲，綠洲有一道寺廟圍牆環繞。

綠洲正中的建築乃是吳哥窟寺的印度教式的須彌山金字壇。吳哥窟寺坐東朝西。一道由正西往正東的長堤，橫穿護城河，直通寺廟圍牆西大門。過西大門，又一條較長的道路，穿過翠綠的草地，直達寺廟的西大門。在金字塔式的寺廟的最高層，

可見矗立著五座寶塔，如骰子五點梅花，其中四個寶塔較小，排四隅，一個大寶塔巍然矗立正中，與印度金剛寶座式塔布局相似，但五塔的間距寬闊，寶塔與寶塔之間連接游廊，此外，須彌山金剛壇的每一層都有迴廊環繞，乃是吳哥窟建築的特色。

那裡的台階陡峭，我們需要手腳並用地爬上去。這寓意著人們到達天堂需要經歷許多艱辛。之前只有一條台階建了扶手，據說在殖民時期有一位官員的夫人就是從這個樓梯摔下去世。

吳哥窟是整個遺址中保存最完好的寺廟建築。今天柬埔寨人將它放在自己的國旗上，足見吳哥窟在柬埔寨人心目中的神聖地位。吳哥窟最初是為敬奉印度教神靈所建，但是今天已演變為佛教寺廟。

在方形廣場的四個角上，各有一座石塔，而廣場中央矗立著一座更高的石塔，象徵神話中的聖山。無論印度教還是佛教信徒都相信，中間這個神聖的所在就是宇宙的中心。

吳哥窟建在三層台階的地基上，每層台基四周都有石雕迴廊，浮雕大多取材於印度著名史詩《摩珂婆羅多》與《羅摩衍那》的神話故事。寺廟中央大道兩旁是九頭蛇形欄杆，柬埔寨傳說中，九頭蛇會帶來風調雨順。寺廟周圍是護城河和水池，我當時一直以為了保護寺廟，但有專家說是為了通過水中的倒影，使寺廟顯得更加神聖雄偉。

吳哥窟是人類的傑作，但每個設計都是為了體現神性。置身於吳哥窟的佛像間，已經分不清自己究竟是站在神的領地還是人的空間。神性和空間交匯在這個密林中的古城。吳哥窟中心建築十字王台盡頭是吳哥寺的中心建築群。它基本是由大、中、小三個以長方形迴廊為周邊的須彌座，依外大內小、下大上小的次序堆疊而成的三個圍囿，中心矗立五座蓮花聖塔為頂點，象徵須彌山。

美國學者艾麗娜曼妮卡解釋這三層迴廊各代表國王、婆羅門和月亮、毗濕奴。各迴廊的每個基點上建立廊門，上中兩層的迴廊，四隅設置塔門，每層塔門的四座寶塔，中央寶塔形成五點梅花圖案。

由於寺廟的朝西取向，因此上一層須彌座的位置，並非在下一層須彌座的正中，而是略略靠後偏東，為西邊畫廊留出更多空間；

因為同樣原故，西邊的台階不如東邊台階陡峭。第一層的須彌座由砂岩石壘成，高出地面約3米；須彌座之上，有高3米左右的迴廊，圍繞吳哥寺如口字形。迴廊長方形，南北方向長190米，東西方向長220米。迴廊四周，共有四座塔門和八座廊門，四隅各一座塔門，正西、正東各三座廊門，正北、正南各一座廊門。塔門和廊門有內、外二石階，可通第一層內院、寺廟外院。

迴廊的內側牆壁既是寺的外牆兼巨型畫廊。迴廊的外側，有兩排並列的方石柱，其中一排支撐畫廊拱頂，另一排支撐半拱頂邊廊。迴廊的二重檐拱頂，覆蓋陶瓦，保護畫廊壁上的石雕，不受日晒雨淋。

畫廊的石壁，排列雕工精細的八幅巨型浮雕。每幅浮雕高二米余，長近百米，全長達七百餘米，繞寺一周。浮雕描繪印度兩篇著名梵文史詩《羅摩衍那》和《摩訶婆羅多》中的故事和一些吳哥王朝的歷史。從西北壁角按反時鐘方向，西畫廊展示羅摩衍那中阿逾陀國王子羅摩（Rama）擊敗羅剎魔王羅波那（Ravana）的場面，和摩訶婆羅多中佧拉婆族和班度族戰爭的故事。

南畫廊有幾幅浮雕，和吳哥王朝歷史有關，其中一幅描繪蘇耶跋摩二世頭戴王冠，在寶座上赤足盤腿而坐，左手向左指，後手靠著寶座扶手，左右侍從各二，手執長扇，為王扇風，身後還有宮女，手持巨型蠟燭，白日點燃。

接下去是印度神話中32層地獄和37重天堂。東畫廊描繪古印度神話普拉納斯中一個著名的故事：毗濕奴攪乳海，當時毗濕奴令92尊阿修羅和88尊天神把蛇王婆蘇吉充繩索攪動乳海。接著的毗濕奴擊敗阿修羅的場面是16世紀後人所加。北畫廊顯示毗濕奴第八化身黑天戰勝阿修羅班那。

西北和西南角廊的畫面較小，多是描述羅摩衍那或黑天的故事。入第一層迴廊西門，踏入一個名為「千佛閣」的田字閣，四周環繞迴廊。田字閣被中央的十字游廊間隔為四個院落，其地面比十字游廊和迴廊低約一米，原為水池，現不蓄水。田字閣的南北廊，寬約3米，外側封閉，內側立雙排方柱。十字游廊由兩道游廊交叉成十字形，每道游廊由中廊、左偏廊、右偏廊三部分組成，由四行方柱支撐。

兩行內方柱支撐中廊，兩行外方柱支撐各自的偏廊。中廊寬約3米，高約4.5米，上半是牆壁下半是方柱。石柱底部有飛天女浮雕，一些柱身和柱牆還殘留深紅色的塗漆，由此可窺見八百多年前吳哥窟全盛時期之輝煌景象。主廊頂呈蛋尖拱形，以陶瓦蓋頂。左右偏廊，寬約2.5米，高約3米。游廊總寬度約8米。

幾世紀來，朝拜者曾在閣內留下許多佛像，不過大部分佛像已被挪走。閣內還有不少頌揚朝拜者善行的銘文，多數是高棉語，一些是緬甸語。田字畫閣之外的院子，乃寺廟第一層圍囿的內院，如反匚字形。在第一層圍囿的西北角和西南角，各有一座藏經閣。田字閣的北廊、中廊和西廊各有石階廊西通寺廟的第二層圍囿。

第二層台基又高出第一層台基五米半，四周也有長方形迴廊，東西方向長約115米，南北方向寬約100米。迴廊沒有石柱，也沒有偏廊，兩壁分布豎葫蘆欞窗，間以天神浮雕。迴廊共有十座廊門，四隅各一，東南北各一，西邊三座。每座廊門有內外二石階，下通第一圍囿內院，內通第二圍囿內院。西邊的三座廊門，通第一圍囿的田字閣。

第二層迴廊四角的塔門，頂部各矗立一座寶塔；因年久失修，四座寶塔的頂部大半缺損，九層寶塔只剩二三層。第二圍囿內院的西南、西北隅各有一座小型的藏經閣。兩座藏經閣之間由一個十字形陽台的南北道相連，

陽台的東西道連接第二層迴廊的西門和第三層迴廊的西門。這個十字陽台也是後人添加的。寺廟的第三層台基，即最內和最高層台基，稱為巴甘，正方形，形如金字塔，但由兩段疊成，巍然拔地而起12米，比一、二層台基高一倍。

台基四周有十二道台階，東南西北每邊各三道，十二道台階都十分陡峭， 必須手腳並用，匍匐攀登，象徵登天之艱辛。台階之上的田字形重檐畫廊，60米見方，上立五座蓮花聖塔，四隅各一塔門，正中矗立一座42米高的大主塔，塔頂離地65米，主塔比四個角塔高大；五座寶塔，排成五點梅花式。每塔內設神龕。主塔的神龕，最初四通，中供毗濕奴一尊，在改奉上座部佛教後，中供佛像，三面用佛像壁圍攏。

各塔門之間，塔門與主塔之間，由田字畫廊相連。田字畫廊由迴廊和十字游廊組成，迴廊分主廊和偏廊兩部分，主廊靠外的牆壁分布著豎葫蘆欞窗，在正東、正西、正南、正北四個基點則分布長方形無欄窗。主廊的內側為立柱排，主廊上有高五米的拱頂，偏廊內側排列立柱，半拱頂高三米。十字游廊有一走廊，二偏廊，一拱頂，二半拱頂，左右各二排方石柱。

田字廊的拱頂和半拱頂上鋪陶瓦。畫廊頂部的天花板刻獅頭蛇像，畫廊和神龕入口有布滿雕飾的門楣和三角牆。迴廊東南西北四邊的正中各有廊門，每廊門有台階下通第二層；迴廊四隅的塔門，各有二道台階下通第二層。

Jumbo Huang Index：Today I guided 9 people tour to visit the Angkor temples in Siem Reap:

《皇氏古建築大全》Jumbo Heritage List No.40405：Preah Ko: Preah Ko was the first temple to be built in the ancient and now defunct city of Hariharalaya (Roluos), some 15 kilometers south-east of the main group of temples at Angkor, Cambodia. The temple was built under the Khmer King Indravarman I in 879 to honor members of the kings family, whom it places in relation with the Hindu deity Shiva.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.40379：Bakong: Bakong (Khmer ???????????) is the first temple mountain of sandstone constructed by rulers of the Khmer empire at Angkor near modern Siem Reap in Cambodia. In the final decades of the 9th century AD, it served as the official state temple of King Indravarman I in the ancient city of Hariharalaya, located in an area that today is called Roluos.The structure of Bakong took shape of stepped pyramid, popularly identified as temple mountain of early Khmer temple architecture.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.20994：Phnom Bakheng, at Angkor, Cambodia, is a Hindu and Buddhist temple in the form of a temple mountain. Dedicated to Shiva, it was built at the end of the 9th century, during the reign of King Yasovarman (889-910). Located atop a hill, it is nowadays a popular tourist spot for sunset views of the much bigger temple Angkor Wat, which lies amid the jungle about 1.5 km to the southeast. The large number of visitors makes Phnom Bakheng one of the most threatened monuments of Angkor. Since 2004,

World Monuments Fund has been working to conserve the temple in partnership with APSARA.

APSARA (Authority for the Protection of the Site and Management of the Region of Angkor) is the Cambodian management authority responsible for protecting the Angkor Archaeological Park. Founded in 1995, it is in charge of the research, protection, and conservation as well as the urban and tourist development of the park. It is headquartered in Siem Reap. As of 2016, it consisted of 15 departments and more than 500 personnel.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.20979：Angkor Bayon Temple, The Bayon (????????????, Prasat Bayon) is a well-known and richly decorated Khmer temple at Angkor in Cambodia. Built in the late 12th or early 13th century as the official state temple of the Mahayana Buddhist King Jayavarman VII, the Bayon stands at the centre of Jayavarmans capital, Angkor Thom Following Jayavarmans death, it was modified and augmented by later Hindu and Theravada Buddhist kings in accordance with their own religious preferences.

The Bayons most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and smiling stone faces on the many towers which jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak. The temple is known also for two impressive sets of bas-reliefs, which present an unusual combination of mythological, historical, and mundane scenes. The current main conservatory body, the Japanese Government Team for the Safeguarding of Angkor (the JSA) has described the temple as "the most striking expression of the baroque style" of Khmer architecture, as contrasted with the classical style of Angkor Wat.The ruins of Angkor are located amid forests and farmland north of the Great Lake (Tonle Sap) and south of the Kulen Hills, near modern-day Siem Reap city, The temples of the Angkor area number over one thousand, ranging in scale from nondescript piles of brick rubble scattered through rice fields to the Angkor Wat, said to be the worlds largest single religious monument. Many of the temples at Angkor have been restored, and together, they comprise the most significant site of Khmer architecture. Visitors approach two million annually, and the entire expanse, including Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom is collectively protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The popularity of the site among tourists presents multiple challenges to the preservation of the ruins.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.20975：Angkor Thom located in present-day Cambodia, was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire. It was established in the late twelfth century by King Jayavarman VII. It covers an area of 9 km2, within which are located several monuments from earlier eras as well as those established by Jayavarman and his successors. At the centre of the city is Jayavarmans state temple, the Bayon, with the other major sites clustered around the Victory Square immediately to the north.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.40406：Baphoun,The Baphuon is a temple at Angkor, Cambodia. It is located in Angkor Thom, northwest of the Bayon. Built in the mid-11th century, it is a three-tiered temple mountainbuilt as the state temple of Udayadityavarman II dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. It is the archetype of the Baphuon style with intricate carvings covering every available surface. The temple adjoins the southern enclosure of the royal palace and measures 120 metres east-west by 100 metres north-south at its base and stands 34 meters tall without its tower, which would have made it roughly 50 meters tall. Its appearance apparently impressed Temür Khans late 13th century envoy Chou Ta-kuan during his visit from 1296 to 1297, who said it was the Tower of Bronze...a truly astonishing spectacle, with more than ten chambers at its base.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.40407：The Terrace of the Elephants is part of the walled city of Angkor Thom, a ruined temple complex in Cambodia. The terrace was used by Angkors king Jayavarman VII as a platform from which to view his victorious returning army. It was attached to the palace of Phimeanakas of which only a few ruins remain. Most of the original structure was made of organic material and has long since disappeared. Most of what remains are the foundation platforms of the complex. The terrace is named for the carvings of elephants on its eastern face.The 350m-long Terrace of Elephants was used as a giant reviewing stand for public ceremonies and served as a base for the kings grand audience hall. It has five outworks extending towards the Central Square-three in the centre and one at each end. The middle section of the retaining wall is decorated with life size garuda and lions; towards either end are the two parts of the famous parade of elephants complete with their Khmer mahouts.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.40408：Phimeanakas, Vimeanakas (?????????????????, Prasat Vimean Akas) at Angkor, Cambodia, is a Hindu temple in the Khleang style, built at the end of the 10th century, during the reign of Rajendravarman (from 941-968), then completed by Suryavarman I in the shape of a three tier pyramid as a Hindu temple. On top of the pyramid there was a tower, while on the edge of top platform there are galleries. Phimeanakas is located inside the walled enclosure of the Royal Palace of Angkor Thom north of Baphuon.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.40409：Ta Keo had to be the state temple of Jayavarman V, son of Rajendravarman, who had built Pre Rup. Like Pre Rup, it has five sanctuary towers arranged in a quincunx, built on the uppermost level of five-tier pyramid consisting of overlapping terraces (a step pyramid), surrounded by moat, as a symbolic depiction of Mount Meru. Its particularly massive appearance is due to the absence of external decorations, as carving had just begun when the works stopped, besides an elaborate use of perspective effects. It is considered an example of the so-called Khleang style.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.20984：Ta Prohm is the modern name of the temple at Angkor, Siem Reap Province, Cambodia, built in the Bayon style largely in the late 12th and early 13th centuries and originally called Rajavihara. Located approximately one kilometre east of Angkor Thom and on the southern edge of the East Baray, it was founded by the Khmer King Jayavarman VII as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm is in much the same condition in which it was found: the photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkors most popular temples with visitors. UNESCO inscribed Ta Prohm on the World Heritage List in 1992. Today, it is one of the most visited complexes in Cambodia』s Angkor region. The conservation and restoration of Ta Prohm is a partnership project of the Archaeological Survey of India and the APSARA,The trees growing out of the ruins are perhaps the most distinctive feature of Ta Prohm, and "have prompted more writers to descriptive excess than any other feature of Angkor." Two species predominate, but sources disagree on their identification: the larger is either the silk-cotton tree (Ceiba pentandra) or thitpok Tetrameles nudiflora, and the smaller is either the strangler fig or gold apple. Angkor scholar Maurice Glaize observed, "On every side, in fantastic over-scale, the trunks of the silk-cotton trees soar skywards under a shadowy green canopy, their long spreading skirts trailing the ground and their endless roots coiling more like reptiles than plants."

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.40410：Banteai Kdeiis a Buddhist temple in Angkor, Cambodia. It is located southeast of Ta Prohm and east of Angkor Thom. Built in the mid-12th to early 13th centuries AD during the reign of Jayavarman VII, it is in the Bayon architectural style, similar in plan to Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, but less complex and smaller. Its structures are contained within two successive enclosure walls, and consist of two concentric galleries from which emerge towers, preceded to the east by a cloister.This Buddhist monastic complex is currently dilapidated due to faulty construction and poor quality of sandstone used in its buildings, and is now undergoing renovation. Banteay Kdei had been occupied by monks at various intervals over the centuries until the 1960s.

《Jumbo Heritage List》No.2222：Angkor Wat Sanctuary；Angkor Wat ????????? is a temple complex in Cambodia and the largest religious monument in the world, on a site measuring 162.6 hectares , It was originally constructed as a Hindu temple of god Vishnu for the Khmer Empire, gradually transforming into a Buddhist temple towards the end of the 12th century. It was built by the Khmer King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century in Ya?odharapura, the capital of the Khmer Empire, as his state temple and eventual mausoleum. Breaking from the Shaiva tradition of previous kings, Angkor Wat was instead dedicated to Vishnu. As the best-preserved temple at the site, it is the only one to have remained a significant religious centre since its foundation. The temple is at the top of the high classical style of Khmer architecture. It has become a symbol of Cambodia, appearing on its national flag, and it is the countrys prime attraction for visitors.

Angkor Wat combines two basic plans of Khmer temple architecture: the temple-mountain and the later galleried temple. It is designed to represent Mount Meru, home of the devas in Hindu mythology: within a moat and an outer wall 3.6 kilometres long are three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. At the centre of the temple stands a quincunx of towers. Unlike most Angkorian temples, Angkor Wat is oriented to the west; scholars are divided as to the significance of this. The temple is admired for the grandeur and harmony of the architecture, its extensive bas-reliefs, and for the numerous devatas adorning its walls.

7 Wakara St- Wat Damnak- Wat Bo Rd- Street 27-22.behind Wat Damnak Pagoda, between Psa Dey Hoy Market and Angkor High School, Closed on Monday, Siem Reap, 93000, Cambodia, Helistarcambodia.com, Scenic flight…