【ECO Style】男士須知的27條著裝潛規則

27 Unspoken Suit Rules Every Man Should Know

男士須知的著裝27條潛規則

You can』t expect to look all dapper and gentlemanly without knowing Suiting 101.

倘若不了解Suiting 101穿衣規則，男士們就很難將自己打造成乾淨利落，具有紳士風度的型男。

譯者：湖畔創譯工坊

（部分圖片比較大，您可以將手機或平板電腦橫過來觀看）

1、The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.

1、領帶的寬度應與翻領的寬度相稱。

SMALTO / malemodelscene.net

It』s all about BALANCE.

西裝的協調搭配最重要。

2、In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Mad Men style.

2、一般來說，薄翻領看起來更摩登，寬翻領看起來更懷舊，就像《廣告狂人》中那些男士偏愛的西裝風格。

AMC

So choose your look accordingly.

那就選擇適合你的西裝吧！

3、A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn』t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.

3、搭配袋巾可增添西裝的時尚潮流感，但一定不可選擇與領帶相撞的圖案或面料。

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Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.

不用煩惱你的西裝太過保守啦，記住袋巾能給你最大的自由搭配空間，同時還能為你的西裝增添一點亮點。

4、When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.

4、購買現成的西裝時，首先要檢查肩部是否合適。

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Tsk, tsk, John McCain. Shoulder pads should end at the shoulders. The shoulders are the hardest to tailor, so make sure they don』t stick out or stick up.

嘖嘖，這不是約翰?麥凱恩的西裝造型嘛。墊肩應與肩寬一致。肩部是最難裁剪的部位，所以要確保墊肩既不向外凸出又不向上凸起。

5、A collar gap between your jacket』s lapels and your shirt』s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.

5、西裝翻領和襯衫領口之間的間隙大小可以表明西裝合不合體。

It』s complicated. Read more about it here.

這條穿衣規則很複雜。點此閱讀更多相關細節。

6、Opt for a charcoal or gray suit over black, unless you』re attending a funeral.

6、優選棕色或灰色的西裝，少選黑色西裝，除非你去參加葬禮。

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Dark gray is more versatile and goes with more colors.

深灰色是百搭色，可搭配更多顏色的西裝。

7、Your belt should be fairly thin and the same color as your shoes.

7、皮帶不能太寬，選擇和鞋一樣的顏色。

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8、You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:

8、鞋的顏色應該與西裝的顏色協調，具體搭配可見下圖：

putthison.com / Via reddit.com

9、Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.

9、雙開叉西裝使男士看起來更摩登與時尚。

jcrew.com

jcrew.com

This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual 「hand in pocket」 thing.

身材高大的男士更適合這種版型的西裝，它給你留有足夠空間還讓你可輕鬆隨意「手插褲袋」。

10、For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.

10、要想看起來更休閑與時尚，就選擇單扣豎領西裝。

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11、If you』re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

11、倘若你鍾愛更正式的職業裝，可選擇雙扣V形翻領西裝。

White Collar / USA

12、The Savile Row Fold keeps your dress pants from falling off the hanger.

12、採用倫敦薩爾維街摺疊西裝褲的方法，就不必擔心西裝褲可能從衣架上滑落下來了。

lifehacker.com

13、You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.

13、你的手應該能插進胸部和扣好的西裝之間，既要感到舒適合體，又要留有活動空間。

14、Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.

14、坐下前記住先解開西裝扣子，否則你有將其撐破的危險。

15、The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.

15、雙扣西裝的第一顆扣子(或三扣西裝正中間的扣子)應落在肚臍正中或肚臍上面的位置。

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16、Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.

16、你的領帶最好是打成經典的溫莎結，但用半溫莎結還是全溫莎結則取決於你腦袋的大小。

feeldesain.com

BIG HEAD = FULL KNOT. SMALL HEAD = HALF KNOT. If you』re not sure how your head size compares, ask one of your male friends. They should be able to give you an objective opinion.

大腦袋=溫莎結 小腦袋=半溫莎結 如果你不知道自己的腦袋究竟有多大，可以詢問你的男性朋友，他們應該能客觀地回答你。

17、If you』re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.

17、 如果你穿的是背心，記住別扣最底部的扣子。

jcrew.com

But plenty of men break this rule and are still able to pull off the three-piece beautifully.

雖然很多男士都違反了這條規則，但他們仍然能穿出西裝的時尚感。

18、There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.

18、搭配背心不僅彰顯了男士的穿衣品味，而且兼具實用功能。

menstylefashion.com

A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it』s actually visible). if you』re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.

背心搭配單排扣西裝最能穿出效果（背心顯而易見）。如果你想要在寒冷的天氣穿西裝，加一件背心就會暖和多了。同時也能讓你的西裝看起來更正式。

19. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.

19、袖口應該露出約半英寸。

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For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.

想要看起來協調的話，盡量使露出的袖口的長度和脖子後面露出的領口的長度相稱。

20.When you get your suit home, you』ll need a seam ripper or a small, sharp pair of scissors.

20、把西裝買回去後，你需要用接縫拆線器或鋒利的小剪刀將其修補一下。

Unstitch the jacket』s pockets, remove the tack stitchesfrom the jacket』s vents, and remove the little embroidered label from the jacket』sleft sleeve. Do this very carefully to ensure you don』t actually rip the fabricor neighboring threads.

拆掉西裝口袋上的線、開叉西裝上的粗線和西裝左袖上的繡花標。做這種活要非常細心，千萬不能毀壞面料或將線攪在一起。

21、Make sure that your socks are long enough that there』s no exposed leg when sitting down.

21、 確保你的襪子足夠長，避免坐下時露出腿。

monotopshoes.com

No one needs to see your hairy gams.

沒人希望看到你腿上的毛髮。

22、Your tie should always be darker than your dress shirt.

22、領帶的顏色應該總是比襯衫的顏色深。

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23、The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.

23、西裝外套應該足夠長，能遮住褲子拉鏈和臀部。

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24、Your tie should JUST reach the waistband of your trousers, or be slightly shorter.

24、你的領帶應該恰好觸到褲子的腰帶，或者長度稍短一點。

25、For a more fashion-forward look, the pant hem should hit right at the top of your shoe.

25、想看起來更時尚，褲子下擺應該正好在鞋子上面。

gq.com

For a more conservative look, the pants should cover the top of the shoe and parts of the laces.

想看起來更保守一些，褲腳應該蓋住鞋子上方和部分鞋帶。

26、If you sweat a lot, wear an undershirt.

26、 如果你出汗較多，穿一件汗衫。

Preferably one with a deep neck so it doesn』t peekthrough. Nothing will cheapen the appearance of a suit more than a glimpse ofundershirt.

最好穿深領的汗衫，避免被人窺見。再好的西服，若是汗衫外露，那也是品位盡失了。

27、Finally, go for the dimple.

27、最後，領帶也是要有「酒窩」才夠「靚」哦

versamens.com

The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of yourtie, and it gives a slightly disheveled yet polished appearance to yourfinished look. Check out this handy guide on nailing the tiedimple.

「酒窩」就是領帶結下面一小塊凹陷下去的地方，它給你的整體西裝造型增添了一點凌亂感卻又不失凝練之氣。學習領帶酒窩的打法，可查閱相關指南。

湖畔創譯工坊(Lat.)精誠譯作

翻譯：魯雨潔

審譯：張立秋