雙語：市場營銷之國外的網紅營銷

來自專欄 出國

How Instagram influencers turn followers into dollars

At Moscow』s Sheremetyevo International Airport in early 2017, waiting to board his flight back to Paris, Olivier Billon noted a forty-something man beside him wearing an expensive Panerai watch and asked how he got to know the brand. The answer surprised him: Instagram. But it also filled him with pride: Mr Billon is a pioneer of influencer marketing — where brands engage those with millions of followers on social media, whether with experiences, gifts or money, to promote their goods.

2017年年初，在莫斯科謝列梅捷沃國際機場(Sheremetyevo International Airport)候機返回巴黎的奧利佛?比朗(Olivier Billon)注意到身旁坐著位佩戴名貴沛納海(Panerai)腕錶的四十多歲男子，並問其是如何知曉這款腕錶的來龍去脈的。對方的回答大出其意料：竟是通過Instagram！但這樣的回答也讓他很是自豪：比朗是「意見領袖（即網紅）影響力營銷」(Influencer Marketing)風潮的引領者——讓各大品牌與那些粉絲達數百萬的網紅通力合作（不管是通過親身體驗產品、免費贈送還是支付酬勞），來推銷自己旗下產品。

Mr Billon, fresh out of elite French university Sciences Po, worked on early influencer campaigns first for cosmetics company L』Oréal and then through his consultancy Ykone, founded in 2009 when he was 24. He was convinced, he says, that his friend Betty Autier』s blog — with 400,000 views a month when Mr Billon started his business — 「could be of great interest for brands」.

比朗從精英雲集的法國政治學院(Sciences Po)畢業後，最初是為化妝品巨擎歐萊雅( L』Oréal)工作，而後通過自創的諮詢公司Ykone（2009年自己24歲那年創建）從事網紅早期營銷宣傳造勢活動。他說自己堅信密友Betty Autier的博客（比朗創業伊始，該博客每月點擊量高達40萬）「會讓各大時尚品牌展露濃厚興趣」。

With his choirboy-like manners, Mr Billon advises companies how to create and maintain an engaging presence on social media, from events and product launches designed to be worth sharing — with mandatory hashtags and branded photo opportunities — to ad hoc activities for influencers.His first clients were L』Oréal Professionnel, Chanel couture and Dior couture. 「My first project within the watch and jewellery industry was for the launch of the Dior VIII watch in 2011,」 he says. For that, he orchestrated 「a two-day experience and presentation of the watch for a group of international influencers in Paris」 on behalf of the brand.

無論從具體活動以及值得共享的產品推介（強制性主題標籤和帶有品牌標識的曬照）、還是專為網紅舉辦的專門活動，比朗以真誠的態度給各家時尚公司支招如何成為與維繫社交媒體的寵兒。他的首批客戶就包括了歐萊雅染護髮公司(L』Oréal Professionnel)、香奈兒(Chanel)時裝與迪奧(Dior) 時裝等重量級公司。「我在腕錶及首飾行業的首個項目是為2011年推介迪奧Dior VIII腕錶。」他說。為此，他代表迪奧公司精心策划了「為巴黎一些國際知名網紅舉辦了為期兩天的親身體驗活動與介紹會。」

Influencer marketing was then becoming relevant to the industry as a more mature — and wealthier — audience took to social media; at the same time, luxury goods companies introduced more accessible product categories for younger users. It is now, according to Mediakix, an 「influencer marketing agency」, a $1bn market.

越發成熟與闊綽的消費者痴迷上社交媒體後，網紅營銷逐漸與時尚界合為一體；與此同時，奢侈品公司也為年輕一代消費者提供更為價廉物美的各式產品。據網紅營銷能力諮詢機構Mediakix統計，如今每年的網紅營銷額達10億美元。

「When I started it was all about the blogs. Now it』s all a different story with Snapchat, YouTube and Instagram,」 says Mr Billon. Instagram is a community of 800m people sharing and liking each other』s photos, and 75 per cent of Instagram』s users said they had been inspired by a post to take actions such as visiting a website or buying something online, according to a 2015 survey. 「Instagram has brought transparency. It is easy to assess the size and quality of the influence by checking the numbers and identities of the influencers』 followers,」 he says.

「本人初創伊始，社交媒體僅是各式博客。如今隨著Snapchat、YouTube以及Instagram等社交媒體異軍突起，整個格局發生了天翻地覆的變化。」比朗說。Instagram如今擁有8億用戶，粉絲們彼此分享與點贊各自上傳的照片；而2015年的一項調查表明：75%的Instagram用戶說自己正是受啟發於某個曬照才去遊覽相關網站或是成為剁手黨一員。「Instagram讓一切成功實現了透明化。通過研究網紅擁有的粉絲群及其具體身份，我們就很容易評估出網紅影響力的廣度與深度。」他說。

Outside his office, it is Paris Couture Week and influencers — with their Instagram-ready outfits and sponsored luxury goods — abound.

而在比朗的辦公室外，巴黎時裝周(Paris Couture Week)正在火熱進行，身穿Instagram曬照行頭以及奢侈品公司贊助配飾的各式網紅隨處可見。

The rise of influencers is linked with fundamental changes in the economics of the luxury sector and the technology of the wider world. A 2017 study by consultants Bain indicated that millennials already make up 30 per cent of luxury consumers. At the same time, dressing down — signalled by increased spending on luxury casualwear — has gone up.

網紅的崛起與奢侈品產業經濟學的質變以及其它行業科技的突飛猛進發展息息相關。貝恩諮詢公司(Bain)2017年的研究報告表明：千禧年後出生的一代人已佔據奢侈品消費總人數的30%。與此同時，休閑風越刮越盛，其標誌就是消費者花在奢侈休閑裝束的費用與日俱增。

Luxury companies』 investments in influencer marketing have also been prompted by the growing popularity of ad blocking software, nullifying their spending on digital adverts. There are 615m devices which have ad blocking software, according to PageFair, a tech business, which says it serves 「unblockable」 ads.

奢侈品公司在網紅營銷方面大把燒錢，廣告攔截軟體大行其道也是重要推手，因為此舉可讓各大時尚公司的網路付費廣告白白忙活。據高科技公司PageFair統計：目前全球有6.15億台電腦安裝了廣告攔截軟體，而PageFair自詡提供反攔截廣告服務。

Alongside this, companies began to conceive of advertising as an enjoyable experience rather than an interruption. Paid posts on blogs were the first to do this, and such 「native content」 has spread to magazines and newspapers. A study conducted by the Word of Mouth Marketing Association — whose members are media agencies and global companies — found that word of mouth, even digital, can drive sales anywhere from five to 200 times more than paid advertising.

此外，各家公司如今開始認為廣告宣傳是愉悅體驗而非消極障礙。博客上的付費帖子就是首批餞行者，這樣的「原汁原味內容」如今已拓展至報刊雜誌。口碑營銷協會(The Word of Mouth Marketing Association)的研究表明：相比付費廣告，口碑（即網路上的口碑）能讓產品銷售額飈升5-200倍。口碑營銷協會的會員都是媒體機構與國際大公司。

「The young generation is an important market because it is a big market and it is the market of tomorrow,」 says Jean-Claude Biver, chief executive of TAG Heuer and president of luxury conglomerate LVMH』s watch division. Mr Biver notes that, thanks to recent partnerships with ambassadors such as footballer Cristiano Ronaldo and model Bella Hadid, who have 118m and 16.5m Instagram followers respectively, millennials have grown significantly as part of TAG』s customer base.

「年輕一代已成為舉足輕重的消費市場，因為這是個很大的市場，發展前景不可限量。」豪雅(TAG Heuer )CEO兼奢侈品巨擎路威酩軒(LVMH)腕錶部主管讓?克洛德?比韋(Jean Claude Biver)說。比韋注意到：在豪雅腕錶的消費人群中，千禧年後出生的一代人增長尤為迅猛，這一切都要歸功於全球品牌大使——足球巨星C羅(Cristiano Ronaldo)以及超模貝拉?哈迪德(Bella Hadid)最近與公司簽訂的合作協議，兩大巨星擁有的Instagram粉絲數分別高達1.18億與1650萬。

Tariffs vary enormously according to the length and type of projects, as well as the parties involved. Influencers seeking to elevate their status might be willing to work for free for a desirable high-end brand in exchange for an experience that will provide content for their media channels. Sometimes the brand secures media coverage about the influencer as part of the collaboration』s agreement.

網紅獲得的具體酬勞因合作時長、合作類型以及合作對象而大相徑庭。醉心提升自己影響力的網紅或許願為自己心儀的高端品牌免費代言，以換取在社交媒體上奉上自己親身體驗的素材。作為協議內容之一，品牌公司有時會確保網紅獲得足夠的媒體關注度。

An influencer with 100,000 followers on Instagram can charge around ￡2,000 per picture, while celebrity influencers with between 4m and 20m followers can charge ￡5,000-￡13,000, according to Hopper, a company offering an 「Instagram planner and scheduling tool」. Selena Gomez』s social media posts to her 132m followers, however, are worth $550,000 each, Hopper says.

據Hopper公司統計：擁有10萬Instagram粉絲數的網紅每張照片酬勞約為2000英鎊；而擁有400萬-2000萬粉絲數知名網紅的酬勞是5000-13000英鎊。Hopper公司負責「策劃在Instagram造勢事宜以及安排旅遊行程」。但Hopper說，擁有1320萬粉絲數的塞萊娜?戈麥斯(Selena Gomez)，其在社交媒體的每張曬照酬勞高達55萬美元。

From the perspective of watch and jewellery houses, collaborations are more successful when the influencers develop a genuine affection for the items they have been gifted and wear them beyond the contractual period. In this sense, Olivier Billon recommends that brands work with influencers 「who have a real passion and interest for a brand and commit to create authentic posts」, rather than choosing them on the basis of crude numeric figures.

而在腕錶及首飾品牌公司看來，網紅們若真心喜歡上了代言品牌、且在有效合同期滿後依然「愛不釋手」，彼此的合作就會更上一層樓。奧利維爾?比龍(Olivier Billon)勸告說，從這種意義上說，品牌公司要與「痴迷自家品牌、並致力於曬出真實可信美照」的網紅合作，而不是僅憑網紅的大致粉絲數決定合作對象。

Mr Billon explains the importance of focusing on 「achieving high engagement rates (above 5 per cent) in likes, comments and shares」 and adds that often micro-influencers (those with fewer than 50,000 followers) offer higher levels of engagement. 「It』s peer-to-peer marketing. Influencers may not be our friends, however they are constantly present when we look at our social media feed.」

比龍說關注「點贊、點評以及共享等方面實現高互動率」(high engagement rates)至關重要，並補充說那些小網紅（micro-influencers，粉絲數少於5萬）與粉絲的互動率往往更高。「這是點對點營銷法(peer-to-peer marketing)，網紅或許並非我們的朋友，但我們遊覽社交媒體訊息(social media feed)時，他們通常在線。」

Selectivity is important for influencers too. 「I do what I do out of enthusiasm, and often simple egotism,」 says Chiara Ferragni. Ms Ferragni is a self-made social media celebrity, with 11m followers on Instagram, and is now chief executive and creative director of a small empire born out of her blog, theblondesalad.com. In 2017 Ms Ferragni and her sister Valentina』s collaborations generated €6m and are expected to grow by 80 per cent in 2018, while Ms Ferragni』s shoe line reported $20m in revenues in 2016.

而對於網紅來說，專一與否同樣重要。「我做這一切完全出於真心喜歡，而且往往是以自我為中心。」嘉拉?法拉格尼(Chiara Ferragni)說。法拉格尼是白手起家的超級網紅，其Instagram粉絲數高達1100萬，如今是自創同名品牌的創意總監與CEO，該品牌就脫胎於自己的博客http://theblondesalad.com。2017年，法拉格尼與妹妹瓦倫蒂娜(Valentina)合創的品牌實現了600萬歐元的銷售額，今年有望實現80%的增長率，而法拉格尼推出的系列鞋早在2016年就實現了2000萬美元的業績。

Together with her co-founder, Riccardo Pozzoli (now a minority stakeholder with no operational role), she executed a plan to build a personal brand with carefully selected partnerships and iron discipline. Ms Ferragni minutely lists and files everything she needs to act upon on her phone, which rarely leaves her hand, and instead of being represented by one of the leading modelling agencies, which have stepped into the influencers』 business, she has her own talent manager.

法拉格尼與聯合創始人里卡爾多?波佐利(Riccardo Pozzoli)一起，用精挑細選的合作者與鐵一般的紀律把創建個人品牌的計劃付諸實施。里卡爾多?波佐利如今已是小股東，不參與公司經營事務。法拉格尼在形影不離的手機上把自己需做之事仔細羅列與歸類好，然後運用自己的人才管理師，而不是聘請知名模特公司做形象代言人（而這已是網紅行業的新常態）。

「I prefer to concentrate on long-term partnerships rather than one-off projects,」 she says. Ms Ferragni has collaborated with Cartier since 2014 for the launches of the Amulette necklace, the new smaller version of the Love bracelet and the Panthère watch (duly hashtagged #ad on her Instagram account).

「我更喜歡長期而非一次性合作關係。」她說。自2014年以來，法拉格尼已與卡地亞(Cartier )合推了Amulette項鏈、Love最新款小型手鐲以及獵豹腕錶(Panthère)（適時在其Instagrm賬號上曬出帶有主題標籤的美照）。

She also has a longstanding partnership with the emerging jewellery brand Nétali Nissim. Ms Nissim says that one of Ms Ferragni』s Instagram posts where she is wearing gifted Nétali Nissim items generates between 5,000 and 10,000 visits to the brand』s website. Ms Nissim credits the brand』s social media activity for its introduction into retail spaces.

她還與新創首飾品牌Nétali Nissim簽訂了長期合作協議。尼西姆說法拉格尼在Instagram上每曬一張佩戴設計精巧的Nétali Nissim首飾的美照，自家網站的訪問量就會增加5000-10000次。尼西姆在社交媒體為自家品牌大肆造勢就是為了助力銷售。

Cartier (where I formerly worked) is a prime mover in the influencer sphere. Before Valentine』s Day 2017, the maison partnered with 50 social media influencers to promote the Love bracelet — a lighter and more accessible version, priced at ￡3,600, of the bestselling original.

卡地亞（我昔日曾在此高就）是網紅營銷領域的主要推手。2017年情人節前，它與50位網紅合作推銷Love手鐲（比最暢銷的老款更為輕盈、也更為便宜，售價為3600英鎊）。

At an event in April 2017, Cyrille Vigneron, Cartier』s chief executive, said that the campaign had reached 45m people — predominantly young — while 「more mature customers discovered the novelty in store」. He added that 「influencers were carefully chosen according to talent and affinity with the maison rather than fame」. Cartier now splits its communications spend almost equally between 「classic」 advertising and events, influencers and social media.

2017年4月的一場促銷活動上，卡地亞CEO Cyrille Vigneron說宣傳活動的「受眾」達4500萬（絕大多數為年輕人），而「更為成熟老練的顧客則去實體店體驗購買推出的新奇款式」。他還補充說，「網紅們都經精挑細選——依據是其能力大小以及與公司的關係密切程度而非單純名氣」。卡地歐如今把廣告宣傳基本對半分——「傳統」廣告宣傳以及依靠網紅在社交媒體進行宣傳。

Mr Billon, however, warns brands against solely relying on content generated by influencers. A brand』s mystique, which can be conveyed in blog posts, might be jeopardised if simply shrunk to square-formatted pictures accompanied by a few words and hashtags on Instagram. He says that 「it』s a matter of striking the balance between influencers』 and brands』 created content」 and questions whether it is appropriate for customers to discover elaborate and expensive creations through influencers.

但是，比龍警告各大品牌公司不要單純依靠網紅在社交媒體的宣傳。品牌的神秘感可以經由博客文章傳遞，但若只藉助Instagram上固定格式的美照（只有隻言片語以及主題標籤），就可能會很危險。他說「重要的是實現兩者的平衡——網紅與公司在社交媒體打造的內容」與消費者通過網紅髮現名貴精巧款式是否合適的實際問題。

He is privy to brands』 concerns as he has worked with most of the important luxury houses. Some still hold out against influencers, however: Hermès, the leather goods and fashion house, resists collaborating with influencers if it involves payments, gifts or ad hoc experiences.

他對各大品牌公司的關切點一清二楚，原因是他與多數奢侈品巨擎合作過。但有些公司至今仍對網紅並不待見：一旦涉及具體酬勞、免費贈送或是臨時體驗產品，皮草製品與時尚巨擎愛馬仕(Hermès)就堅決不與網紅合作。

Influencers』 posts have starting to attract regulators』 attention. The US Federal Trade Commission released guidelines in March 2017 and sent letters to influencers in September warning them to disclose paid-for social media posts with a view to protecting consumers.

網紅在社交媒體的大肆曬照已引發管理機構的關切。美國聯邦貿易委員會(The US Federal Trade Commission )2017年三月頒布了相關規定，並於去年九月給各網紅去信，警告其需披露在社交媒體的曬照是否有償，以保護消費者合法權益。

However, if concerns arise about possible violations, the FTC guidelines state that brands are 「ultimately responsible for what others do on your behalf」. In order to co-operate with the FTC, Instagram introduced a 「paid partnership」 tag in June 2017.

但是，若是產生侵權事宜，聯邦貿易委員會規定各大品牌公司「最終為其代言的網紅行為負責」。 2017年6月，Instagram推出了「付費合作夥伴」(Paid Partnership)標識，為的就是與聯邦貿易委員會進行合作。

Pelle Sjoenell is worldwide chief creative officer at Bartle Bogle Hegarty, the advertising agency that orchestrated merchandising campaigns for singers Justin Bieber and Ariana Grande. He urges companies to reconsider millennials and the communications strategies aimed at them. He believes that there are 「too many celebrities and influencers trying to sell us things」, which will eventually disengage the audience: 「[Brands cannot expect] to tag along without looking like they are jumping on the bandwagon.」 They should not neglect 「the long-form, knowledge, expertise, depth」 when appealing to millennials either, rather than assuming a single post will do.

Pelle Sjoenell是廣告代理商百比赫(Bartle Bogle Hegarty)全球首席創意官，百比赫精心策划了小天王賈斯汀?比伯(Justin Bieber)與阿莉安娜?格蘭德(Ariana Grande)的宣傳造勢活動。他敦促各大品牌公司重新斟酌千禧年後出生的一代人以及有針對性的宣傳策略。他認為「太多的名人與網紅都在想方設法兜賣代言的產品」，而此舉最終會與網民漸行漸遠：「品牌公司若要指望粉絲如影隨形，就得裝出同樣是隨大流者。」它們若要吸引千禧年後出生的一代人，不應忽視「長期格式、專業知識以及是否有深刻見地」，而不是僅以曬出的一張美照充數。

Sometimes influence is not enough. Kristina Bazan, 24, was one of the first bloggers whom high-end watch and jewellery houses trusted, and she has amassed 4m followers on social media since 2012. When she told her father she wanted to start a blog, kayture.com, he demanded a business plan and monthly meetings to monitor her progress, turning it into a career from the off.

有時候，光有影響力遠遠不夠。今年24歲的克里斯蒂娜?巴贊(Kristina Bazan)是首批時尚博主，頗受高端腕錶與首飾品牌待見；自2012年來，她的社交媒體積攢的粉絲數已達400萬。當初她告知其父開辦博客http://kayture.com的想法時，對方要求其說出企劃書，而且每月與其會面以監督其具體進展，此舉使其一開始就樹立了打持久戰的思想準備。

It is still working well — Ms Bazan attended the extravagant relaunch party for the Cartier Panthère watch in Los Angeles in May; flew to the Cannes Film Festival as L』Oréal ambassador, wearing Chopard jewellery; and has filmed a project for watch brand IWC. But like many other influencers, Ms Bazan is embarking on a new venture: music. So why music now? She takes a deep breath: 「I miss the profound.」

巴贊的博客依然辦得風生水起——巴贊參加了卡地亞去年五月在洛杉磯舉行的全新推出獵豹腕新表的盛大派對；隨後作為歐萊雅形象大使、佩戴蕭邦首飾(Chopard)飛赴戛納電影節(Cannes Film Festival)；並為IWC萬國表拍攝了廣告片。但與其他網紅一樣，巴贊如今開始試水全新行當——音樂。那麼為何選擇如今這個時間點呢？她深吸一口氣後說道：「我缺乏深層次的東西。」