如何保養你的腕錶？

據說有位頂尖的鐘錶匠曾經在世界上最著名的鐘錶公司做設計，他的特殊職業身份讓人覺得只要是他想要的任何一塊手錶必定唾手可得，讓人奇怪的是在生活中他卻連一塊表都沒有，或許是因為他的職業比別人更能感知時間的流逝？這背後的原因我們無從得知。這位職業鐘錶匠的國際和身份至今仍然是個迷，可是他卻給我們留下了許多寶貴的財富----腕錶的分類還有它的專業保養知識。

Legend goes with a professional watch technician who has many years of experience working in the watch industry in some of the most famous watch houses. Some say that he has worked on some of the most expensive limited timepieces in the world…And rumour has it, he in fact goes about his life with no watch at all…His nationality and identity remained unknown. But he did leave the world a fortune—the technical details of watchmaking and maintanance of watches.

1怎樣區分你的腕錶是手動，自動還是石英？

How to know if my Watch is Manual, Automatic or Quartz?

手錶是人類所發明的最小，最堅固，最精密的儀器，根據振蕩器的不同，我們可以將腕錶分機械錶和石英錶，機械錶是以機械振蕩做調節，而石英錶則是以電子震蕩器來做調節的。機械錶又可以分為手動和自動，它們之間最大的區別就是如果你將表放在耳邊能聽到明顯的滴答聲，那一定是手動的，如果你看到指針輕輕的划過鍵盤基本上聽不到聲音，那一定是自動。手動表通常需要上發條，跟我們設定時間用的是同一個機芯分布在錶冠的一側，在使用時我們需要自己用手擰緊發條。顧名思義自動表不需要人為的上發條，當我們戴上的時候依靠手臂的活動，通過內置的機芯自動裝置使發條上緊來運轉。

Lets deal with quartz watches first. Most of the time the movement wont be visible, but occasionally you might find the word 「quartz」 mentioned on the dial. If not, have a look at the second hand. Quartz watches typically have a 「tick tick」 motion that moves once per second. If your watch doesnt have a second hand, try to feel the crown (the part that you wind the watch with) as you rotate it: quartz watches crowns will typically turn smoothly, easily, and without any sound.

大部分的石英錶在錶盤里不會有標示，但是也會有少數廠家在錶盤里註明石英（quartz）的字樣。有的腕錶會有多個小針指示盤，你會發現通常石英錶每秒會移動一次發出輕微的嘀嗒聲，如果你的手錶只有隻有一套指針，你將手放在錶盤上，你會感覺指針移動非常平滑，它幾乎不發出任何聲音。

Manual and automatic watches both belong to the same big family of mechanical watches. One of the easiest ways to spot them is to put them next to your ear and try to get their fast 「tic tac」 sound. Also, generally speaking, the second hand tends to 「sweep」 rather than 「tick」. Manual watches regularly need to be wound up by hand, and automatic watches wind up automatically while you wear them. Winding up a manual watch is done via the crown, which is the same button you use to set the time.

2上發條時我們該怎樣操作？是將機芯按進去還是往外拉？按照哪個方向？

To wind my watch, should I push or pull the crown? In which direction should I rotate it?

在上發條時一般來說我們並不需要將機芯向里按或者是往外拉，因為手錶的發條的位置已經是固定好了。大部分簡單的手動表只要按照順時針方向上發條就好，簡單的說如果你將手錶戴在左腕，用右手的拇指和食指輕輕的按順時針擰發條就行，重複此動作直到上滿發條為止。

Theres no need to push or pull the crown: its default position is basically the winding position.The vast majority of simple manual watches will wind up by rotating the crown clockwise: in other words, when you have your watch in your left hand, take the crown between your right thumb and index, and push your thumb upward. Then repeat.

相對普通手錶而言潛水錶上發條就比較特殊，為了防止水通過錶冠進入到潛水錶的機芯，鐘錶匠研發出一種旋入式錶冠，在表觀冠的連接處加入了橡膠製成的防水膠圈，當錶冠被旋緊時，水便嚴密的被擋在外面了， 所以潛水錶在上發條前通常需要解開錶冠的防水圈，這種特殊的設計就是為了防止了人為的失誤而使水進入到表內。

Some watches, typically divers watches, will require you to unlock the crown before you can wind the watch. The crown can either be screwed or pushed down by a lever, the idea being to prevent it from rotating accidentally.

3如果朝兩個不同的方向擰發條會有什麼嚴重的後果嗎？

Is it wrong if I go both direction?

在上發條我們需要確保不要損壞腕錶。通常需要將發條按照順時針方向擰，在擰的時候你會覺得需要越來越大的力，並且發條會越擰越緊，直到不能用力為止。但如果按逆時針方向上發條你會發現擰來擰去的感覺完全一樣，使用同樣的力度，好似發條永遠都在同樣的位置，而且你在擰的時候會發出輕微的響聲。

Please be reassured, youre not going to damage anything: the typical winding mechanism is made so that when you turn the crown clockwise, you wind up the watch, and when you turn it counter clockwise, it disengages, giving a much lighter feeling and producing a tinier 「clic clic」 sound.

4上發條需要擰多少次？

How many times should I turn the crown?

如果你每天都佩戴腕錶，最好養成一種好習慣，在戴上之前上緊發條。市面上有很多不同種類的機芯，因此我們不能簡單的用數字來回答這個問題。

On the most basic manual watch, you will easily feel that you reach an end: you will first feel a resistance, and soon you wont be able to turn the crown anymore. Dont go any further.

我們日常最普通的腕錶，上發條時按順時針方向擰直到擰不動為止，如果你繼續用力，有可能會損壞機芯。但有些腕錶有動力儲存指示，就像汽車的油盤指示一樣，它顯示了儲存的動力可以持續多長時間，但你上發條時，你就會看到能量顯示上升，到最後擰不動時能量就會顯示滿了。

Some manual watches have a power reserve indication, that works like a fuel gauge in a car, indicating how long is left before the watch stops working. When you wind up the watch, youll see the power reserve indicator going up, and youll feel the end at the same time it indicates that its full.

有些手動的表即使你花上整天的時間上發條，可是還是感覺不到擰發條時用力的區別，通常這種表一般會有能量顯示指示，如果沒有的話，你大概調50圈就可以了。

Some other manual watches are designed in a way that the spring has no 「end」: you could spend your entire day winding it up without ever feeling any resistance. These usually have a power reserve indication, but if they dont, around 50 strokes should do it.

5上滿發條後手錶大概可以走多長時間？應該多久上一次發條？

How long will my manual watch run when fully wound? How often should I wind it?

大部分手動表在上滿發條後可以持續工作40-50小時，50小時是什麼概念呢？如果你周六早上上發條了，周日不戴，手錶可以工作到周一早上，當你戴上時不用重新設置時間，可是要記得上發條。

Most manual watches have a power reserve between 40 and 50 hours. 50 hours is convenient, because if you last wind up your watch on Saturday morning and dont wear it on Sunday, it will still be running on Monday morning, so you wont have to set the time. Remember to wind it up though.

有些普通的手動表通常在上發條的幾個小時內工作得比較通暢，對於這種表最好每天在戴上之前都上好發條，以免它突然停掉。

These common watches are designed to give their best during the first half of their power reserve. Its a really good idea to wind it up every day before you put it on: it will run every day in the same conditions, and youre less likely to forget to wind it up one day and have it stop at an inconvenient moment.

有些手動表上滿發條後可以持續工作8天，有些甚至可以連續工作30天，它們都會有能量儲存顯示器。

These common watches are designed to give their best during the first half of their power reserve. Its a really good idea to wind it up every day before you put it on: it will run every day in the same conditions, and youre less likely to forget to wind it up one day and have it stop at an inconvenient moment.

6什麼時候們該讓手動手錶暫停工作休息一段時間？我們該把它放在特殊的位置嗎？

When I leave my manual watch to rest, should I put it in a particular position?

這裡沒有一個統一的答案。但是值得注意的是所有的機械錶對溫度和存放的環境很敏感，有種手錶如果平方在離暖氣比較近的地方它會走得快，在溫度低的環境走的慢。當你在白天活動，手錶也跟著你的胳膊活動了，這保證了手錶並不在一個位置上停留太久。你必須慢慢發現最適合自己的表的休息方式，因為每一塊表的特性都可能不同。你可以嘗試將它放在不同的位置，並做些記錄——這是作為一塊手錶的主人應盡的義務。

Once again, theres no unique answer. Keep in mind that mechanical watches are sensitive to temperature and position. One particular watch can be fast when its laying flat near a heater, and slow in another position in a cool room. During the day when youre wearing it, you put it in a succession of random positions, giving a good average time rate. Youll have to get to know your watch to discover the conditions in which it gives its best when its resting. You might even get different results with identical watches. Try a bit of everything, take notes. Its an important part of the relationship you get to have with it.

如果你讓手錶休息了太長時間，它會停止走動。這並不是什麼問題，當你想再次佩戴它的時候，上滿發條，它就再次整裝待發了。

If you need to let it rest for a longer time, the watch will eventually stop. Its not a problem at all. When you want to wear it again, fully wind it up, set the time and youre good to go.

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