Ultimate Style(the best of the best dressed list) by Eleanor Lambert

[QTR]TT506.Z54 2004

寫在前面：下面的文字內容是我借的圖書館的一本書（代碼見第一排）的摘要（算是自己認為有趣的部分吧，但是一定不會很客觀）大概中間會有一些typo，但是除了typo之外應該可以算是原汁原味的原文了。圖片部分都是我自己在網上找到的 然後handmade拼起來 圖片下面的備註純粹是自己的個人想法（拒絕撕逼）（我感覺自己的眼睛今天怕是要瞎了咳咳）

時尚或許是每一個女性和大部分男性都沒辦法繞過去的一座冰山，因為」世不可避，如魚之在水「 我們或多或少的都受到它潛移默化的影響。可能有的男仔要提反對意見 但是你們挑女朋友的時候真的不看外在的嘛？??

做這個整理髮現非常有意思的現象：基本上時尚是個圈，三十年河東三十年河西，前年流行tomboy,去年流行oversize,今年流行IT chic girl, 明年流行日韓慵懶原宿風，後年流行復古優雅小香風。。。等等等等。可能真的像王爾德所說，「時尚是個圈，就是。。。」迪奧的創始人克里斯汀迪奧有一句名言 「時尚易逝 風格永存」 送給每一個不是超模身材或者錢包不鼓的女仔。

另外一個發現就是「經濟基礎決定上層建築」 往往是某一個有權有勢人物引領潮流 而普通大眾就開始follow&copy,最後成為一種經典。比方說第一夫人傑奎琳肯尼迪的護士帽和蒂凡尼手鐲，比方說威爾士王妃黛安娜的珍珠耳釘，choker,復仇小黑裙。說一點題外話，我國古代以胖為美，是因為當時生活水平低，平民有時會餓死，只有上流社會的闊太太才能吃的白白胖胖。現在又為什麼以瘦為美呢？因為大家生活水平高了，窮人富人都可以吃飽了， 這時候differentiation在於富人有錢也有閑去健身管理身材，所以女孩子一下又對「好女不過百」趨之若鶩。馬可波羅在自己的遊記里表達了認為盛唐長安漢族女子多麼美麗，相比之下雅利安白人婦女多麼乏善可陳。當然，後來有了第一次第二次工業革命，他們有了牛頓伽利略達爾文，我們有了和珅慈禧，後來自然有了日本被逼無奈下的明治維新 還有我們更加無奈的鴉片戰爭 喪權辱國之類的 不一而足， 在這種歷史背景下，現在果然以白人長相為美了 沒看見這麼多女孩子整容是去隆鼻 割歐式平行雙眼皮 墊高額頭的嘛。經濟基礎決定上層建築，不管你想不想崇洋媚外 或者跪舔上流社會，我們每個人潛意識裡都在卑躬屈膝。大概 勢利本來就是人的本性吧 哪怕甚至察覺不到。

整理的過程中發現的一個比較可喜的現象就是女性幾十年以來地位的大幅度提升。一個是設計師當中出現了大量優秀女性設計師，我們再慢慢脫離男性設計師壟斷的女性服裝市場。二個是女性的衣服更多的強調舒適耐穿 適合通勤上班 越來越消弱取悅男性的部分（比方說迪奧經典new look里誇張的腰臀比基本沒看見了）越來越多彰顯自己的個性。

Introductory

The Best Dressed List was created by Eleanor Lambert, the legendary fashion publicist and arbiter of style. She selected most influential, visible, enduring fashion icons.

1940s during World War Ⅱ

When Paris was occupied by the Germans, the fashion industry turned to the houses of Britain. The late 1940s brought explosive changes such as simplified style entering high fashion. in 1947 Christian Dior introduced his revolutionary "New Look"

Babe Epitomized style through this decade, who was listed for 14 times. superbly stylish and gracious. elevated entertainment beauty and fashion to an art form

"Wallice Windsor represents one of those rare women--like Katherine Hepburn--who never quite fit in because they have such an individual style,such a hard edge and such an unfrilly sense of woman."

Slim Keith:outdoorsy chic "california girl",health, physical activity,masculine refinement. muse of ernest hemingway

Gene Tierney:mysterious, seductive

1950s:revival,prosperity

During this decade, day wear was casual and elegant while evening wear was vividly sensual. Charles James provided women with glamorous and extravagant eveningwear, while simplicity was key to his daytime collection. 1954, Coco Chanel reopened her fashion house in Paris and began producing now-classic boxy suit.

Grace Kelly "snow-topped volcano" to her royal highness. aloof, ice-queen

C.Z.Guest:not a fan of french clothes. cool, pale,golden,elegant horsewoman, queen of modernization, simplicity

Claudette Colbert: how sexy a woman could be in mans clothes

Gabrielle Coco Chanel: simple and classic. close connection with Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn, challenger of Diors "New Look", rebel stereotype

1960s:most radical revolution.miniskirts,pop-inspired furs, hot pants

Popular designers such as YSL,Givenchy, Pierre Cardin have collaboration with two iconic fashion ladies---Jacqueline Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, both of whom exemplified elegance, grace and refined art. Hair became an important accessory.

Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Oassis (Jackie): pillbox hat, low-hilled pumpcapri pants,neckerchief, simple cloth coats. connection with Oleg Cassini for personal designer. Jackie is not only the most influential first lady in US history, but transformer of American fashion

Audrey Hepburn: sleek and simple appearance. projection of feminity but not sexuality. timeless elegance

Gloria Guinness

1970s: "Anything goes"forget the rule. You make them, you break them.---Vogue

self-expression,individuality

Twiggy(Leslie Hornsby):boyish,traight-lined design,youthful geometric style, popularize lace collar/peasant tops

Carolina Herrera:"Poeple confuse vulgar and naked with sexiness.You want the mystery!""Style is something very personal. Some women have it. Some just dont. Style is like an elegance. It is sth. you are born with."

Diane Von Furstenberg: exotic, "wrapped dress". 「You always dress to seduce, not to cover"

Bianca Jagger: tomboy, exotic, bold challenger

1980s: dress-for-success era, power suits paired with high heelsand Chanel shoulder bag with golden chains.

Princrss Diana has a profound influence in global female fashion look. popularized romantic look of high-necked ruffled blouses, pearls, floral print skirts. The designers CK, Claudia Montana, Versace presented bold and sensual options in evening design.

Diana, Princess of Wales

Raquel Welch: tremendous sex appeal, white-hot wet suite; fur bikini, savage

Tina Chow: daughter of an American father and Japanese war-bride mother, began modeling for Shiseido. exotic, eastern delicacy. First publicity dying of AIDS

1990s: individuality in fashion became the norm. People lost interest in dressing for power/success. the emphasis shifted to comfort and practability.minimalism.

Versaces sleek and sexy evening wear was famously worn by Naomi Campwell, Elizabeth Hurley.When Vera Wong launched her bridal boutique in 1992, she finally reversed the trend of the "meringue" wedding dress introduced more than a decade ago by Dianas wedding. As daywear became pared down, accessories assumed greater importance. No outfit was considered complete without a pair of Manolo Blahniks or Jimmy Choos, or Prada and Gucci.

Naomi Campbell: Balck pearl supermodel.

Ines De La Fressange: Chanel director Karl Lagerfield described her as " the very spirit of Chanel".優衣庫最近出了她的設計聯名款！！厲害了優衣庫。

2000-2002 dressing up was back in style and almost as fun as it was in 80s.

Leather abd suede were hotter than ever such as snakeskin pants. For preofessional women, 2000 marked the return of pantsuita, with both narrow and wide-legged silhouettes, often with cuffs, and worn with strappy sandals, mules, or boots.

Nicole Kidman

chloe sevigny:"uncool cool", bona fide NY "IT" girl

Gwyneth Paltrow

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