TE||The mushroom man

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導讀

紀念義大利廚神 Antonio Carluccio

（視頻來源網路，僅供參考）

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音樂| 精讀 | 翻譯 | 片語

The mushroom man

蘑菇先生

本文英文部分選自經濟學人Obituary版塊

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Antonio Carluccio died on November 8th

The ambassador for real Italian food was 80

安東尼奧·卡盧奇奧，被譽為義大利美食教父，2017年11月8日去世，享年80歲

WHEN Antonio Carluccio arrived in Britain in 1975, nervous and tongue-tied, he found Italian food restricted mostly to London』s Soho. There a few trattorie made their own pasta, and knew that olive oil was not merely for unblocking ears. At Lina Stores he could buy olives, panforte and dry spaghetti. Otherwise and elsewhere, what he called 「Britalian」 food held sway: ragù that was just flavoured mince, avocado served with a gloop made of ketchup and mayonnaise and, to finish, oranges in a sickly syrup masquerading as caramelata. All very depressing.

1975年，安東尼奧·卡盧奇奧初到英國，既緊張而且說話打結。他發現，只能在倫敦的蘇荷區才能品嘗到義大利菜——那裡能找到幾家餐廳會做義大利面，也知道橄欖油並不是只能用來通耳朵；他還可以在那裡的麗娜商店買到橄欖，潘福提（義大利硬蛋糕）和義大利乾麵。除了那裡以外，諾大的倫敦再也找不到地道的義大利菜，到處都是似是而非的食物，他稱之為「英式義大利菜式」：肉醬不過是調過味的肉丁，番茄醬和蛋黃醬拌一拌配牛油果，更誇張的是，甜膩的糖漿里放上橙子就算焦糖了。這讓他很鬱悶。

1.unblocking ears：將質地溫和的油類，如橄欖油、嬰兒油、礦物油，滴2～3幾滴在耳內，再用棉花球塞住耳朵，避免油脂在溶解耳垢之前就流出來。油類可軟化耳垢，使之變得容易流出

2.Panforte：是義大利南托斯卡納地區Siena錫耶納的著名甜點，是一種扁扁的硬蛋糕，中間夾有堅果、乾果、蜂蜜和香料。因為它很結實，中世紀十字軍喜歡帶它去打仗。感覺有先像巨貴無比的新疆切糕。https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panforte

3.Hold away：統治，支配

Three decades later, when Carluccio』s was listed on the stock exchange and he and his then-wife, Priscilla Conran, had sold their stake for around ￡10m, his name was on the dark blue blinds of 130 outlets across the land. His 23 books and multiple TV series had made his curly white cap of hair and ample girth synonymous with real Italian food, the sort that made you sigh and cry 「Fantastic!」, like him, when you tasted it. In Carluccio』s Caffès, Britons could not only eat in proper Italian style but could also buy chilli oil, fennel salami, wild-boar sauce, squid-ink linguine. Though many chefs, writers and restaurateurs helped promote the cause in Britain, his name was in the vanguard.

三十年後，以卡盧奇奧命名的公司在證券交易所上市，卡盧奇奧和前妻普里西拉·康蘭靠出售股票獲利1000萬英鎊； 130家連鎖店遍布全國，餐館深藍色窗帘上都印著卡盧奇奧的名字。他寫了23部書，拍了多部電視教學片，標誌性的白色頭髮和肥碩腰身形象深入人心，成了正宗義大利菜式的代名詞——當你吃到真正的義大利食物，你也會像卡盧奇奧一般讚歎，「真是棒極啦！」。在卡盧奇奧的餐館，英國人不僅能品嘗到正宗的義大利美食，而且還能買到辣椒油、義大利茴香臘腸、野豬肉醬和墨魚汁義大利扁麵條。儘管有很多大廚、美食作家和餐館老闆都對義大利菜在英國的推廣起到幫助，但盧卡奇奧是當之無愧的領頭羊。

This looked like success to most people. It was Priscilla, though, who built up the Carluccio brand, after 1999, on the basis of his single restaurant in Neal Street in Covent Garden. She was the business brain; he was the front man, happy to do nothing but seek out perfect foods. And his notion of success was very different. It meant, after a slow stroll with his dog through bare woods on a misty November morning, uncovering a mushroom from the leaf-litter, cutting it off, weighing and savouring it and placing it, with reverence, in his basket. This 「quiet hunt」 had been his passion since the age of seven, and walks with his father in the Val d』Aosta. For him the fun of living in England was not so much celebrity, as the fact that people knew almost nothing of fungi and were even afraid of them. The woods were full of untouched treasure: stout boletes, high-capped morels, oyster mushrooms, tiny yellow chanterelles. In Hyde Park he found a puffball as big as a football, right beside the path

對於大多數人來說，這看起來已經非常成功。但其實他的前妻普里西拉才是真正的操盤手，創立了卡魯奇奧品牌——正是她1999年接手後，才將考文特花園Neal街的唯一一家餐廳發展成連鎖品牌。 而卡魯奇奧喜歡追求食物的極致口感，所以負責廚房一線。他的成功理念與眾不同——對他來說，成功只是意味著，在十一月霧靄的清晨，帶著小狗在林間漫步，從落葉堆里發現蘑菇，然後採摘下來，掂一掂分量，再親口品嘗一下，最後小心翼翼地放進籃子里。這種「安靜的狩獵」從他七歲那年和父親一起走進瓦爾德奧斯塔（Val d』Aosta）開始，已經變成了他的激情源泉。對他來說，在英國生活的樂趣並不是有那麼多名聲，（而是對菌菇的普及），因為當地人幾乎對菌菇一無所知，甚至感到害怕。而在他眼裡，樹林中蘊藏了一座未被觸碰過的巨大「寶藏」：粗壯的牛肝菌，高蓋的羊肚菌，牡蠣蘑菇，黃色的小雞油菌。在海德公園，他發現了一個足球大小的馬勃菌，就長在小路邊。

1.這個用法很形象生動，寫作中可以參考。關於他與眾不同的成功理念，安東尼奧去世後，Jamie Oliver在ins上寫了這段話（文中提到了他的餐廳可以說是野生蘑菇朝聖地)：

主要意思就是表達了對」安東尼奧·卡魯奇奧」的去世表示沉痛的哀悼。也提到他是我25年前在尼爾街餐廳（the Neal Street restaurant）的第一位倫敦老闆。而且他的餐廳可以說是野生蘑菇朝聖地了，能為他工作我真的很開心。

2. Passion:他寫過一本書叫做A Passion for Mushrooms

3. Celebrity：此處作名聲解釋，做名人解釋時用作可數名詞，作名望，名聲解釋時用作不可數名詞

Mushrooming reminded him that what he most enjoyed was the feel of things. When he walked in the woods he would also seek out good straight sticks, hazel for preference, to whittle and slowly carve into proper thumb-sticks for uncovering fungi or simply leaning on, hands crossed, to survey the scene. When he wrote his books he would do so in pencil, crafting them. He was a countryman; though his father was a stationmaster, the family kept pigs and a goat, and grew vegetables whose fresh, intense flavour he never forgot. His mother made bread, preserves and sausages, and was his only cookery teacher. No chef』s dainty training for him. On television he manhandled slabs of speck and cheese like a true peasant, flicking aside with impatience the frilly paper caps on Carluccio』s sauces to get at the good stuff inside.

采蘑菇讓他意識到自己最享受的是親近大自然的感覺。在樹林里散步時，他也會尋找好的直木棒，最好是榛子樹的，然後慢慢雕刻成適當的拇指棒形狀，用來發現菌菇，或者簡單地作為拐杖靠著，雙手交叉再仔細觀察。當他寫書時，他會用鉛筆，親自削。他是一個農民。雖然他的父親是一名火車站長，但家裡還是養了很多豬和一隻山羊，而且種植了許多蔬菜，所以他永遠不會忘記蔬菜的清香。他的母親會做麵包，蜜餞和香腸，是他唯一的烹飪老師。而且他沒有接受過專門的廚師培訓。在電視上，他直接用手抓肉塊和乳酪，而且急著打開調料盒的樣子真得很像農民。

Thumb-sticks：Held with the thumb in the V around chest-height to provide a comfortable and safe grip.

So when he took full charge of his restaurant in Neal Street in the late 1980s, his mission was mushrooms in all their glorious variety. Gradually, they crept into his menus: turbot with honey fungus, supreme of pheasant with truffles. (He would happily shave truffle over almost anything.) At first he had to pick every mushroom himself, dashing out between services to his secret places near enough to London; later he found Poles to help him. Boxes of the season』s delights would appear outside the restaurant and he would stand beside them, drawing on a fat cigar.

所以，自從上世紀80年代後期，安東尼奧.卡盧奇奧全權接手尼爾街上的餐廳，他的主要任務便是充分展現蘑菇的各種美味，與蘑菇有關的美食也一道道不斷地呈現在菜單上：有蜜菇多寶魚，也有松露雉雞（他恨不得在所有菜里都放鬆露）。一開始他得自己去採集每一種蘑菇，來回奔波於餐廳和倫敦周邊的「秘密天然食材基地」。後來，他才找到坡萊斯（ Poles ）幫忙，餐廳門外擺放一箱箱當季的新鮮蘑菇，卡盧奇奧就會站在一旁，叼上一根大雪茄。

He used fungi to teach British diners to be more daring generally: to eat a stew made of lamb pluck, for example. Mushrooms also showed that the best things were transitory, seasonal, and had to be eaten as fresh as possible. The same applied to fish and vegetables: pick them fresh, cook them simply but wonderfully, as farmers』 wives did. A dish of fried ceps

and potatoes was perfection, summing up his slogan mof mof: minimum of fuss, maximum of flavour. 「Abundant wine to drink!」 was all that needed adding.

他用蘑菇教會了英國食客更大膽地嘗試一些食物，比如燉羊雜。而且蘑菇還傳遞出一個深刻的道理——美味的菜肴不宜久放，要在當季食用，越新鮮越好。不僅僅是蘑菇，這個道理同樣也適用於魚類和蔬菜類食品：選取最新鮮的食材，就像村婦做菜那樣，簡單又美味的烹飪。即使是炸土豆配牛肝菌，也可以是一道美味。卡盧奇奧總結為mof mof原則，即追求「極簡加工，極致口感」，另外只要紅酒管夠就行。

Mushrooming gave him solace, too. His life, which seemed so jolly to outsiders, contained much sadness. The worst was the death by drowning, at 13, of his youngest brother Enrico. He could not begin to deal with the heaviness left in his heart except by foraging for wild things and painstakingly shaping them into something else. And he could not stay in his technician』s job or in Italy, though he had no idea where his future lay. He roamed Europe homesick for his mother』s cooking. His e?orts to replicate it drew in many girls, but none gave him the family and children he wanted more than anything. His three marriages all foundered. He loved the buzz and challenge of running his restaurant, but it closed in 2007 when developers moved into Neal Street. Behind the jovial smile, he attempted suicide several times.

采蘑菇也給了他安慰。在外人看來，他的生活似乎很愉快，實際上卻充滿許多的悲傷。最為悲痛的是，他最小的弟弟恩里科（Enrico）年僅13歲溺水身亡。除了通過尋覓野外的食物，並將它們精心地製作成一些東西之外，他無法卸下心中的憂傷。儘管他並不知道自己的未來在何方，但他無法留在技術人員的崗位上，亦或待在義大利。他在歐洲漫無目的地遊盪，想念著母親為他做的飯菜。 他努力模仿母親的廚藝，吸引了許多女孩，但沒有一個人能給了他最渴望的家庭和孩子，所以三次婚姻都失敗了。他喜歡自己經營的餐廳所帶來的快樂與挑戰，但在2007年開發商進駐尼爾街時他的餐廳關閉了。在其快樂的微笑背後，不為人知的是，他曾試圖自殺過數次。

The real problem, he knew, was that Carluccio the brand had come to obscure the man. The glossy stores were too far removed from handling and making things. They were too far from the woods and the joys of gathering, but that was the life that was true to him. The motto he chose was in natura veritas. In Nature lay his truth.

他明白，真正的問題在於，Carluccio品牌開始讓他自己迷失了——連鎖餐廳的光鮮使他遠離了親自做菜的廚房一線，遠離了夢想中的霧靄樹林，也遠離了採摘蘑菇的樂趣。但對他來說，那些遠離的才是真實的生活。 他的人生箴言是自然真理。他的真理存於自然當中。

翻譯組：

Coco，男，物流民工，經濟學人鐵粉

Damon，男，建築民工 ，經濟學人鐵粉

Lucia ，女，英語專業學生，經濟學人粉絲

Swallow，女，英語專業研究生，專八，CATTI三筆

校核組：

Damon，男，建築民工 ，經濟學人鐵粉（次校）

Ryan：男，外企高管，經濟學人稀有金屬粉（主校）

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觀點 |評論|思考

文中最後一段不禁讓小編想到《挪威的森林》寫到：每一個人都有屬於自己的一片森林，迷失的人迷失了，相逢的人會再相逢。有些人不能從過去的悲傷中解脫出來，沉溺於自己的森林之中，既無法接納他人，也無法再被他人所理解。有些人走出了內心深處那片無人能夠觸及的森林，來到了更廣闊的天地。毋庸置疑，這位蘑菇大佬走出了那篇迷茫，重新走進了他的那片蘑菇森林，那麼親愛的讀者，您找了屬於您的那片森林了嗎？歡迎給小編留言,留言後小編會獻上高清無碼版的Two Greedy Italians，中譯名《貪嘴義大利》或《兩個義大利吃貨》。

PS:迫於校對大佬Ryan的淫威，讓我一定要幫他的公眾號打廣告，大家有空可以看看Ryan大佬寫的「采蘑菇的義大利廚神」 ，主要以Obituary為主，好了，Ryan大佬，我已經給你做了廣告了，該怎麼回報，高管您自己看著辦，我可是一個狹隘的人。

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