首飾設計師 王笑倩：「 文化的搶救是必要的，是為了更多的人更全面的了解侗族的。」｜Craft＋侗輯

實地調研 Primary Research

我的第一個系列靈感來源於侗寨鼓樓。一路上我們經過每個寨子都會看到鼓樓，剛打了個骨架的，也有很古老的有幾百年歷史的。我們當時去的時候已經進入冬天了，下著很冷的雨。寨子里的人聚在鼓樓下面，烤火，聊天，聚會，抽旱煙，吹竹笙……鼓樓就是侗寨的中心。

The inspiration of the first collection was come from the drum towers in the Gaeml villages. We always encountered drum towers in every Gaeml villages, under construction or with history of hundreds years. It was rainily winter when we were in Guizhou. The people in the village were gathering together under the drum tower, warming themselves by fire, chatting, smoking, playing bamboo fungus...The drum tower is the center of very Gaeml villages.

看了很多鼓樓，會發現很多層層的疊樓中間，都會有一個很微妙的角，不像漢族的鼓樓是四邊的，侗寨的鼓樓更多的是六邊和八邊的, 但是基座和最下面的兩或三層屋檐依舊是四邊，所以上面的六邊或八邊的多出來的那個尖角就會探出來壓住最下面的瓦片，形成一個很漂亮的陰影。

After visiting so many drum towers of Gaeml, you will notice that there was a subtle angle in the layers of eaves. Unlike the four-sides drum tower of Han people, the Gaeml peoples drum towers are more like six-sides or eight-sides, while the base and the lower two or three layers of eaves are still four-sides. Which means, the extra angle of the upper layers of eaves will reach out and cover the tiles of four-sides eaves, which draws a beautiful shadow.

創作靈感 Inspiration

我的第一個系列就是以這樣一個與眾不同的鼓樓上的角，作為靈感來源而創作的。這個系列有一對耳釘，是六邊鼓樓俯視的樣子，還有一對長耳釘和一枚戒指。另一個系列靈感來源於侗族的銀飾。在侗族的銀飾里比如，鐲子和項圈上經常出現一種麻花狀的造型，把四方的幾股銀條，頭尾融在一起，再敲成四方的。燒紅燒熱了以後，再用大鉗把中間幾股銀，一起擰上幾圈，就成了這樣一種扭轉的形。

This distinctive angle inspired me to create the first collection.This collection includes a pair of ear stud, which is the overlook of the six-sides drum tower, and a pair of long earrings, and a ring. Another collection was inspired by the silver jewellery in Gaeml. A shape like Chinese dough twist is often appeared on the Gaeml silver jewellery, like necklaces and bangles. This is formed by several square silver strips, melted by the both ends. After heating until red, twist the silver strips together using a plier. That is how the shape been made in silversmithing.

我的另一個系列提取了這種侗族銀飾裡帶著力量和流線感的形狀，做了一枚底部扭轉的戒指、一枚吊墜和兩個小耳墜。小耳墜的樣子來源於，侗族中一種像秤砣一樣的銀飾，六個正方形面和八個三角形組成的，面上會有鏨上去的匠人的章或者是一個紋樣，這個銀飾是用來吊在背後拉住前面穿在裡面的圍裙的繩子的，非常的神奇。

I draw the shape with sense of power and streamline into the jewellery collection. The form of earrings is inspired by a kind of Gaeml silver accessory like weight, which is composed by six squares and eight triangles, with a stamp mark of the silversmith or a certain pattern. The function of this mystical back ornament is to counterbalance an apron.

設計思維 Design Method

我將侗族的文化進行解構，讓它們作為一種視覺上的血液流淌在當代的首飾中。我的一個觀念是，文化的搶救是必要的，是為了更多的人更全面的了解侗族的。但文化真正活著的表現，是作為人們生活的一部分而存在的，並且是在更迭中的，而不是僅僅是被瞻望和被搶救。我的作品有著很現代的樣子，我希望他們作為日常的配飾而被人們喜愛。

I deconstructed the visual Gaeml, merged it into the veins of fashion jewellery. My opinion is, for the sake of a more comprehensive understanding of the Gaeml culture, the rescue is essential. However, the true evidence of the vitality of a culture is being parts of peoples life, iterating and evolving, not only being overlooking and rescuing. My works are contemporary. I wish they could be in peoples favor as daily ornaments.

讓人們看到後，會認為侗族文化是有趣的，是可以作為一種，讓自己欣喜的形式存在於我們的生活中的，而不是很遙遠的紀錄片里的東西，我希望我的首飾讓人看到後，有能夠親身的去侗寨中去走一走看一看的慾望，親身在他們的寨子的山頭上俯視鼓樓，去寨子的最深處，看紡布的老奶奶戴的吊圍裙的銀坨坨是什麼樣子的。

I hope that after seeing my works, people could be interested in the Gaeml culture, enjoying them as a delighted form in their life, more than a distant image in the documentary. I hope people could cultivate a desire of visiting and walking inside the Gaeml villages in person, overlooking the drum tower on the top of the mountain, walking down into the deepest place in the village, witnessing how exactly the back apron ornament been worn by the granny who is spinning and weaving.

以往作品 Previous Work

以前的作品，有專門為舞台和影視製作的飾品，從很抽象的一個概念出發，然後落到視覺上依舊抽象的作品上（MA）；也有為了探索一種技術究竟能做出什麼來，沒有為自己設太多限制，全憑技術的探索和感受引導自己創作的作品（BA）。

I have some previous works specifically created for the stage and shooting, which are inspired by an abstract concept and been delivered into a visually abstract collection. Also, I have tried to explore what a kind of technology can exactly made, and let the feeling and technology led me to finish the works.

這次 Craft＋的作品，可以說受眾是更廣泛的群體，無論從佩戴性上還是外觀上我希望是能被更廣泛的人群所接受的，希望他們佩戴在生活中，能夠與他們的很多衣服很好的搭配起來，使侗族的文化能夠在一個很小，但是很廣的地方，傳播的更遠。

The target audience of the collection of this Craft+ project is wider group of people. I wish the works for the Craft+ could be worn in peoples life, and nicely mix and match with their clothes. I hope this could communicates the culture of Gaeml in a small but wider place.

推薦閱讀：