五十度灰第五期 口袋巾的10種摺疊方法

各位紳士，掌握如何摺疊西服口袋巾是十分重要的。口袋巾的不同折法，適用不同的場合，會給人留下不同的印象：正式，精緻，浪漫抑或華麗等等。我們根據各種場合需求，準備了西裝口袋巾折法教學，今天首先帶您回顧西服口袋巾5種最重要的基本折法。稍後的文章中，我們還會為您介紹另外5種更為複雜的折法。各位紳士，你們準備好了嗎？

Dear gentlemen who strive to be elegant; for you, the folding of your pocket square into the jacket of your suit is a crucial skill. Depending on how you fold it, the impression you make can vary from formal to sophisticated, romantic, or even dandy. To help you get it right, we have prepared the following tutorial covering the different possibilities at your disposal. Today, we will review the 5 most important folding styles you must know, and in the forthcoming weeks we will see 5 more sophisticated techniques. Shall we begin?

為什麼要帶口袋方巾？

Why do we wear it?

古埃及和古希臘時期，以亞麻為材質的方巾或手絹開始出現。13世紀的法國，貴族們上街時會使用噴了香水的方巾來掩蓋口鼻以阻擋街上難聞的氣味。18世紀時，西歐國家的紳士們總是隨身攜帶方巾，以備不時之需。而到了20世紀，口袋巾則成為了男士西服的時尚裝飾品。

The pocket square, or handkerchief, was first used in ancient Egypt and Greece in the form of linen cloth. In 13th century France, noblemen were using perfumed pocket squares to cover their nose against the foul smells from the streets. Later, in the 18th century in Western Europe, it was common for men to carry a square with them at all times in case they needed to blow their nose. It only became a decorative accessory in the 20th century.

一字折法

The line

一字折法是最簡單的。選用這種折法時，不一定要使用白色的口袋巾，但其顏色最好和西服顏色形成鮮明對比。一字折法非常適合棉質方巾，當然絲質方巾也能收到很好的效果。

It is a simple, crisp sliver peeking out from the breast pocket. For this fold, the pocket square does not need to be white, but looks best with solid colours that contrast strongly with your suit jacket. It works better with a square in cotton, but you will still create a nice effect with silk.

適用場合：商務或正式場合

When to wear it: For business and formal occasions

摺疊方法 How to do it:

1. 平鋪方巾

Start with the pocket square laying flat.

2. 三分之一處向內對摺

Fold one side over lengthwise about 1/3 of the width of the square.

3. 另一側向內對摺，寬度與口袋寬度同

Fold the other side over, making the resulting fold the width of your breast pocket.

4. 長邊對摺

Fold the two ends over.

5. 長邊對摺，然後放入口袋調整

Fold the entire length in half. Adjust to the depth of your breast pocket.

一角折法

The peak

非常簡單優雅的折法，適用於純色方巾或格紋方巾。棉質絲質皆可。

Simple and elegant, you can choose a plain or patterned square, in cotton or silk.

適用場合：商務或正式場合

When to wear it: here again, for formal or business occasions.

摺疊方法 How to do it:

1. 方巾對摺再對摺，成為小四方形

Fold your pocket square in 4, in order to get a diamond shape.

2. 一角向內折，對角也向內折

Fold the left peak towards the middle, and do the same with the right one.

3. 底部向內折後再翻折

Fold the lower part towards the centre of the folding.

4. 放入口袋後調整高度

Adjust it with the size of you pocket and how high you want your peak to be.

二角折法

The double peak

這種折法更為經典，適合純色款或格紋款。如果口袋巾的邊緣做工明顯，這樣摺疊佩戴看起來就更精緻了。

Slightly more original than the single peak, this folding can be done with a plain coloured square or a patterned one, and will look particularly sophisticated if your pocket square has a remarkable border.

適用場合：正式場合

When to wear it: for formal occasion that allow a soft sophistication.

摺疊方法 How to do it:

1. 方巾對摺再對摺，成為小四方形

Fold your pocket square in 4, in order to get a diamond shape.

2. 底角向上錯峰對摺

Fold up the lower part of the diamond towards the top, but not fully aligned with the top peak, rather a little to one side.

3. 左右角向內對摺

Fold the left peak towards the middle, and do the same with the right one.

4. 放入口袋後調整高度

Adjust it according to the size of you pocket and how high you want your peak to be.

自然褶皺

The puffing

這種折法可以在視覺上更華麗,更有深度也更精緻。佩戴這種折法需要不時調整。只適合絲質方巾。

Easy to achieve, it creates a wealth of visual appeal, depth, and subtlety. Don』t be afraid to tinker with it once you have it in your pocket. This folding can only be done with pocket squares made from silk.

適用場合：適用於任何場合

When to wear it: it will look great on every occassion.

摺疊方法 How to do it:

1. 方巾平鋪，找到方巾中心

With the pocket square laying flat, pinch the centre.

2. 從中心將方巾抓起

Pick it up from the centre.

3. 環繞拇指將其折到底部之後收住

Form a ring around the pocket square with the thumb and index finger of your other hand and slide it down almost to the bottom.

4. 調整方巾褶皺，大概3褶，然後放入口袋調整

Fold the pinched part down, in order to create pleats, ideally 3 of them. Place it in your jacket with the folded part facing upwards.

花樣

The flower (reverse puffing)

與上面的折法相同，但最後放入口袋時剛好相反。不必太過糾結最後的形狀，這種折法的魅力就在於每次折出來的效果都是不一樣的。

It is exactly the same process as the puff, but we will use the opposite part of the square. Avoid making this one look too perfect. Part of the allure of this fold is that it』s never quite the same twice—it』s the subtle variations that add depth and visual interest.

適用場合：非常吸引眼球的折法，適用於社交場合

When to wear it: very eye-catching, wear it at social rather than professional occasions.

摺疊方法 How to do it:

1. 平鋪方巾，找到中心

With the pocket square laying flat, pinch the centre.

2. 從中心將方巾抓起

Pick it up from the centre.

3. 環繞拇指將其折到底部之後收住

Form a ring around the pocket square with the thumb and index finger of your other hand and slide it down almost to the bottom.

4. 反轉過來調整方巾角，放入口袋後再進行調整

Place it in your jacket and make sure the 4 edges are visible.

如果您的方巾上面有標籤，您可以將其去掉或者在折口袋巾時要分外小心不要把標籤露在外面。稍後文章中我們會為您介紹5種更為複雜的折法。最後，祝您在各種社交場合中都能取得成功！

If your pocket square has a tag on it, you might want to carefully remove it as you definitely don』t want it showing on one of your points. In a forthcoming article we will see 5 advanced types of folding; in the meanwhile, I wish you great success at your social events!

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