五十度灰第六期:口袋巾的10種摺疊方法 II
因知乎無法顯示動圖,原文可以查看 {五十度灰第六期} 口袋巾的10種摺疊方法(下)Pocket square etiquette II
各位追求品質的紳士們(以及時刻為自己另一半考慮的女士們),掌握口袋巾折法是非常重要的技能。口袋巾的不同折法,適用不同的場合,會給人留下不同的印象:正式,精緻,浪漫抑或華麗等等。我們根據不同場合的需求,準備了西服口袋巾折法教學。本期文章將為您介紹5種比較複雜的口袋巾折法。您準備好了嗎?
Dear gentleman who strives to be elegant (or Ladies who want their men to be so), for you the folding of your pocket square into the jacket of your suit is a crucial moment. Depending on how you fold it you can give a formal, sophisticated, romantic or dandy impression. Therefore, we propose you a tutorial about the different possibilities you have. Today, we will review 5 sophisticated technics. Shall we begin?
上期口袋巾折法回顧
If you missed it
本期文章中的折法較為複雜(也更加華麗)。因此,建議您可以回顧上期5種基本的口袋巾折法教學或{五十度灰第五期} 口袋巾的10種摺疊方法,掌握之後再學習今天的5種新的折法。
Today』s lesson will go through more complicated (but more beautiful in my sens) technics. I strongly recommend you to review our previous article about the 5 basic foldings and be sure you handle them properly before starting these 5 new one.
三角折法
The 3 peaks
這種折法也被成為「王冠型折法」,適合花色款的口袋方巾,棉質絲質皆可。
This type of fold that is sometimes also called 「crown fold」 is perfect for patterned and coloured pocket squares, no matter if you have a cotton or silk one.
適用場合:無需太過張揚的商務場合,或者需要穿西服出席的社交場合
When to wear it: For business and business occasions if you don』t display extravagant pattern, otherwise for every social event during which you may wear a jacket.
摺疊方法 How to do it:
1. 將方巾平鋪。
Lay your pocket square on a flat surface.
2. 底角向上對摺,與頂角錯稍微開一定距離
Fold the bottom side up, placing the bottom peak just on the side of the top peak
3. 左角斜向上折,與之前的兩角都錯開距離,形成三峰
Fold the left peak up, placing them just on the side of the 2 already existing peaks
4. 右角向內折,調整大小
Fold the right part on, to reduce the size of the pocket square
5. 放入口袋後稍作調整即可
Place the folded pocket square into your pocket and you are done.
玫瑰折法
The rose
個人認為,玫瑰型是最漂亮的口袋巾折法之一:優雅浪漫而不過分華麗。彰顯男士魅力。
In my opinion, one of the most beautiful realisation you can achieve with a pocket square: elegant, romantic, but not too extravagant. It will give a very seducing style for a gentleman.
適用場合:只適用於社交場合,正式和非正式社交場合均可。對商務場合來說,此種折法稍顯複雜。
When to wear it: For social events only, either formal or casual one. It would be a bit too sophisticated for a strict business environment.
摺疊方法 How to do it:
1. 一隻手的拇指和食指成環,方巾覆於手上
Form a ring with your thumb and index finger and place the pocket square over your hand.
2. 用另一隻手食指將方巾推入環內
Push the pocket square into the ring with your other index finger.
3. 握緊方巾調整
Grasp the fabric you』ve just depressed with the hand holding the pocket square.
4. 抓住方巾上部按照順時針旋轉
Holding the fabric in place, twist the fabric clockwise.
5. 得到想要的形狀,調整放入口袋即可
When you get your desired look, cinch the fabric down to hold it in place.
西服折法
The open suit
大方而優雅,適用純色款或花紋款,最好選用絲質方巾。
Simple and elegant, you can make it with a plain colour or a patterned square, rather with silk.
適用場合: 適用於任何場合
When to wear it: for any type of occasions, social or professional, formal or more casual.
摺疊方法 How to wear it:
1. 平鋪方巾,對角對摺
Fold in half horizontally from the top to bottom
2. 再將左角和右角折到底角,形成四方形
Fold the right corner down to the bottom peak, and then the left corner
3. 小四方形的右角向中間對摺,左角亦然
Fold the right edge toward the center, and then the left edge
4. 下角從後向上翻折,放入口袋
Fold the bottom up and behind the front. Adjust to fit the size of your jacket pocket.
階梯型
The stairs
非常優雅的一款折法,可能性也更多。選用絲質方巾,純色或者四色。個人認為四色方巾的成品更加漂亮。
A very elegant style, that offers you new creativity possibilities. You need to have a silk pocket square, with plain colour or with 4 different colours (one in each quarter). In my sense, the folding is far more beautiful with a 4 colours one, like our example.
適用場合: 適用於任何場合
When to wear it: for any type of occasions, social or professional, formal or more casual.
摺疊方法 How to wear it:
1. 平鋪對角對摺
Fold in half horizontally from the top to bottom
2. 左角向右對摺,置於右角稍下位置
Fold the left corner slightly under the right corner
3. 下角翻折,位於剛剛雙角的再稍下位置,形成三個錯峰
Fold the bottom corner slightly under the left corner you just folded
4. 將錯峰向後折,同時左側也向後翻折,調整大小
Fold the three peaks that are now on the right behind the pocket square, do the same with the part on the left and on the bottom. Adjust to the size you wish.
冰淇淋型
The double pocket squares or 「Ice cream」
這種折法是口袋巾高級折法之一,有些人會認為這種折法有點太過了。但我個人覺得,只要顏色搭配好,這種折法是非常漂亮的。
Here we reach one of the most advanced technics, that some purists may find 「too much」. Personally, I find it totally acceptable and even elegant as long as properly done with a reasonable choice of colours that go well together. Don』t make it too flashy.
適用場合:這種折法創造性和時尚性強,不適合著裝要求嚴格的商務或社交場合
When to wear it: I would not dare wearing it in a strict professional or social environment, it has to be for occasions allowing some creativity, or fashion style.
摺疊方法 How to wear it:
1. 兩塊口袋巾對角對摺,平放
Take two pocket squares, fold each of them in triangle with the top corner down.
2. 一塊口袋巾平行疊放在另一塊上面,底邊一半重疊
Place them one of each other, one has its right corner reaching the middle of the second one.
3. 將未重疊的一角向內對摺在對角稍下,另一角同樣向內對摺
Fold back the right corner of the second pocket square on the first one, just under its right corner
4. 兩側底角向上翻折,左右向後翻折並調整大小
Continue to fold them one after each other. Adjust it to your pocket.
口袋巾的折法還有很多,甚至可以按照自己的喜好和想法自己創造。希望本文對您有所幫助,也歡迎分享轉發給您的朋友!
Of course there are many other ways of folding a pocket square. You may also create your own one with some imagination. If you found this article useful, or if you think some of your friends may need it, please share it!
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