五十度灰之西裝篇Fifty Shades of Suit
The next major detail, after colour, that you must get right when selecting a suit. But how should you decide whether to have six, three, two or just one button on your suit jacket? To avoid making any faux-pas, let』s review how to make the best choices for you.
在選擇西裝時，顏色是第一重要的要素，而第二重要的就是紐扣的數量了。那如何來選擇六粒、三粒、兩粒還是一粒扣的西裝外套呢？
Six buttons and more 六粒或者更多扣西裝
A double-breasted suit should ideally not be the first suit you purchase. Only consider this option when you already have a mature wardrobe with other, more conventional styles.
優點Benefits
六粒扣的西裝也許是讓人感覺最有感召力和親和力的一種西裝，它特別適合當你要去談項目、做交易或希望贏得尊重的情況下穿著。
The six-button suit is perhaps the most charisma-enhancing option of them all. It』s particularly suitable for situations when you have to project strength, close a deal, or win respect.
由於其修身的剪裁，雙排扣的西裝會讓你的肩膀看起來比較寬，從而顯得更強壯。如果你很苗條，雙排扣西裝可以更好地凸顯你的身材。
Straight or clean-cut, the double-breasted suit will enlarge the size of your shoulders, making you appear stronger. If you are particularly slim, this suit style will help to fill out your figure.
缺點Drawbacks
六粒扣西裝容易給人德高望重、老派作風的感覺，但一不小心也會顯得有些老氣而不夠有活力。如果你年齡超過了50歲，穿著這樣的衣服會給你冠上「老一代的紳士」的印象。然而，在一些場合你確實需要打造這樣的形象，因此你也需要做好穿雙排扣西裝的準備。
Traditionally related to very senior, old-fashion men, this suit won』t give you an especially dynamic image. If you are above the age of 50, this suit will put you in the 「gentlemen from the older generation」 category. However, it may be a relevant choice for the occasion, and you simply need to be at ease with it to pull it off.
六粒扣西裝完全包裹著肚子，因此它不適合有一些微胖的男士，因為它會凸顯腹部的形狀，選擇需謹慎。
Because it fully covers your stomach, a six-button suit is not recommended for men who are even slightly overweight, as it will emphasize the size of your belly. A degree of caution is required here.
Three buttons三粒扣西裝
三粒扣西裝曾一度很流行，後來漸漸成了保守的代名詞，服務業的人員大多選擇三粒扣西裝。三粒扣的西裝的開襟比兩粒扣西裝小，會遮住一部分襯衫和領帶。正因如此，三粒扣西裝不太有空間發揮個性。不論年齡和資歷，這是最不容易出錯的款式，所以它也是最常見的款式。穿著三粒扣西裝時，人們的注意將會被吸引到其他細節上（比如手帕和鞋等），當然，還有你的言談舉止。
Proved to be very popular in the past, but since then has become old-fashioned wand a little synonymous with the service industry. The three-button suit isn』t as open as the two-button variety, and a broader section of your shirt and tie will be hidden. You can hardly make a faux-pas here, regardless of your seniority, as this shape offers limited scope for expressing personality, and is therefore the most common. The attention will be drawn to other details (i.e. pocket square, shoes etc.), and of course , your conversation.
優點Benefits
三粒扣西裝在嚴肅的和活力之間提供了很好的平衡。
The three-button suit offers a good balance of seriousness and dynamism.
缺點Drawbacks
它並不容易給人留下深刻的第一印象，因為穿著三粒扣西裝太「安全」了。
When it comes to first impressions, you aren』t as likely to make an impact with this suit, as you will simply be safely within the norm.
Two buttons兩粒扣西裝
The two-button suit represents the modern and dynamic attire befitting of a 21st century gentleman. It provides a trendy shape, yet is immediately relevant in a business environment. Showing more of your shirt and tie, it allows more fashion audacity.
優點Benefits
它具有一定的普適性，無論系不系紐扣，兩粒扣西裝都是很有魅力的。
It offers a certain range of flexibility. And whether open or closed, the two-buttons suit maintains its allure.
無論你是青年還是中年人士，都可以根據調整搭配來達到自己想要展現的形象。Both senior and junior gentlemen can adapt it according to their image goals.
缺點Drawbacks
沒有明顯的缺點,但整體造型成功與否還取決於其他細節和配飾。
From our perspective, there are no clear disadvantages to this option, but rather a successful look will depend on the other details, such as accessories.
One button一粒扣西裝
一粒扣的西服一般來說都是便服（又叫吸煙裝），材質一般是絲綢或羅緞。近年來，很多品牌都嘗試推廣它成為日常的著裝，希望以一粒扣代替兩粒扣西裝的地位，成為新的時尚，但它依然算不上很常見。
The one-button suit is generally reserved for smoking jackets, and is often covered with silk or grosgrain. Recently several fashion brands have tried to popularize it for daily use, attempting to establish 「one button as the new two buttons」. But clearly one-button suits are still very marginal.
優點Benefits
如果你想凸顯你的自信和特別，一粒扣西裝會很適合你。對於藝術工作者和想要塑造創意形象的人來說是個不錯的選擇。
This is the shape to adopt if you what to prove you can confidently go beyond conventions. It can be a good option for gentlemen who work in artistic environments, or who wish to affirm their originality.
缺點Drawbacks
在競爭性的社會裡，人人都需要與眾不同，但同時也冒著太不合群的風險，甚至會讓人覺得你不禮貌。因此，如果你將去往一個非常看重著裝的正式場合，不要選擇一粒扣西裝。
In our competitive societies, where differentiating one self from the competition is a priority for many, there is a risk of having too much audacity in our attire to the point where we may become too exceptional. Don』t choose the one button suit if you are in an environment where clothes are important.
至此是「五十度灰之西裝篇」系列第三期。在第一期中，我們介紹了必備的西服顏色；第二期中，展示了非常規西裝顏色的選擇；最後這一期介紹了不同紐扣數量的西裝。通往時尚修鍊之路還很長，但我們仍會留在你身邊，為你保駕護航。最後，還是那句話：冒險是一門藝術！
After this third article in the series 「50 shades of suits」, we have reviewed the must-have suit colours, the second range of colours, and now the choice of buttons. The gentleman』s road towards fashion accomplishment is still long, but we will remain on your side to drive you towards success. In the meantime, good luck with choosing the right number of buttons for your suit, and don』t forget: daring is an art!
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