為什麼男人如此痴迷於腕錶？

01-27

其實你並不需要一隻表。它們通常和一部車的首付差不多，但是男人們卻總是想要更多的手錶。

No man needs one. They usually cost the downpayment of a house and yet men can』t get enough of them.

有可能我們到手錶店的時候，我們會想「是怎樣的人會花這麼多錢去買一個只會告訴你時間的東西？」這看起來是如此的荒謬。當然，有一些手錶還是很美觀的，但是有很多更便宜的東西可以做到美觀並告知時間！

Sometimes in a watch boutique it could be forgiven to ask yourself 「what kind of person pays so much for something that only tells the time?」 It just seemed so nonsensical. Of course, some are beautiful, but there are many cheaper ways to look beautiful AND tell the time!

一塊腕錶並不僅僅是一個告知時間的裝置－它的意義遠不只此。它是一個綜合了個性表達、歷史、機械以及藝術的獨特集合體，而這一切全都反映在你的手腕上。手錶對於男性來說就是珠寶首飾：一塊勞力士或者積家，無論是金、鉑金還是不鏽鋼的，都是大家所認可的，不分場合。

A wrist watch isn』t just a device to tell the time - it is much more than that. It』s a unique blend of personal expression, history, engineering and art, all of which sits nicely on your wrist. Watches are the male version of jewellery: A Rolex or a Jaeger LeCoultre, whether its gold, platinum or stainless steel, is always socially acceptable no matter the occasion.

David Beckham with a Rolex Gold Day Date

拋開它們的尺寸不說，一些手錶甚至還包含著運動、危險和冒險的元素。比如說在60年代，美國宇航員BuzzAldrin和Neil Armstrong帶著歐米茄的超霸手錶首次登上了月球。有哪個男人不想跟這個扯上關係呢？雖然咱們與月球恐怕永遠也不會那麼近距離地接觸。

And despite their size, some watches even have a hint of sport, danger and adventure about them. In the 1960s for example, the Omega Speed master Professional was worn by Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong as man ventured into space for the first time on an expedition to the moon. What man wouldnt want to have a little part of that- even if the closest he got to the moon was, well, never?

Buzz Aldrin and his Omega Speedmaster Professional "Moonwatch"

有人也許會說汽車也可以承載著同樣的元素，但是我並不認同。別誤會，我也喜歡車，但是相對腕錶，汽車有一個主要的弊端，它們更多時間是停在車庫而不是展示給你欣賞。一塊手錶是一個可以帶去開會的保時捷或者阿斯頓馬丁－而且手錶不會破壞環境。

Some would say that a car fulfills the exact same purpose but I would disagree with that viewpoint. Don』t get me wrong, I love cars too but they have a major disadvantage compared to the wrist watch: they spend a lot of time parked rather than being displayed where you can see them. A watch is a Porsche or Aston Martin that you can take to meetings - and it doesnt harm the planet either.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227

仔細看，這塊表絕對是個手腕上的傑作。36毫米的直徑應該是男士手腕最適合的尺寸。它的寶石錶盤在遇到不同角度的光線時閃閃發光並可以抓住眼球，同時它的亞麻紋理看起來是如此的雅緻，而這種亞麻紋理現在已經停產了。這塊表適合每日佩戴，無論是休閑還是正式場合。

On close examination, the watch is no less than a masterpiece, which sits beautifully on the wrist. Measuring 36mm across, one could argue that its dimensions are perfectly suited for a gentleman』s wrist.The bezelled dial glistens as it catches the light at different angles and reflects it beautifully to catch the eye but not for too long and the linen textured dial, which is no longer available in today』s production looks so elegant. The watch is perfect to wear every day, discrete casually but also holds up effortlessly in more formal attire.

然後就是這塊表背後的機械了。一塊精緻的機械錶從內部運作一直到自身都是一種藝術，還不像如今的高科技工具，可以被服務、被維護。技術方面對於男人來說當然很重要，畢竟我們都有固有的獃氣；我們喜歡不僅美觀同時還有功能和構架，而且耗時、耗手工的物品。

Then there』s the engineering behind it. The internal workings of a fine mechanical wrist watch are an art form unto themselves, and unlike the latest tech gadgets,can be serviced, maintained. The technology aspect is, of course, crucial for men as we are intrinsically nerdy; we love nothing more than an item that not only looks good but has functions and a construction that will have taken a lot of craftsmen a lot of time.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust

不多的勞力士擁有者知道錶盤上寫的蚝式恆動，其實指的是這表防水並且自動上鏈。其中更少的人知道1926年的第一款勞力士蚝式是第一塊量產的防水腕錶，而勞力士日誌型是第一款可以顯示時間並且自動更新日期的手錶。這在如今似乎聽起來並沒什麼，但是在那個時候連電都還沒有，日誌型一直被視為一個機械創舉，它同時也為如今的勞力士品牌奠定了成功的基礎。

Few owners of Rolex wrist watches actually know that Oyster Perpetual written on the dial, refers to the fact that the watch is waterproof and is self winding (automatic). Even fewer know that the first Oyster Rolex in 1926 was the first mass produced wrist watch to be waterproof and that the Datejust was introduced by Rolex as the first watch ever to not only tell the time but also have an automatically changing date mechanism (complication). That sounds like nothing now, but remember there were no electronics during the time when these timepieces were being produced. The Date just was and is still seen as an engineering feat and formed the basis for success of the brand that is widely celebrated today as Rolex.

美國總統奧巴馬的JorgGray 6500系列

President Obama and his Jorg Gray 6500 Series

手錶在男人眼中的地位正如鞋子在女人眼中的地位。我們就是這麼樣的，但這也是一種簡單的快樂。其實手錶並無關價格，奧巴馬總統帶著一隻不超過260英鎊（大概2170RMB）的手錶領導著西方世界，而Diego della Valle，Tod』s時尚帝國的億萬富豪老闆，總是低調地帶著一隻完美設計的Swatch。

Men see watches the same way women see shoes. Its what we do. But its also about simple pleasures. It isnt necessarily about the price: President Obama sports a timepiece costing no more than ￡260 and he is the leader of the free world,while Diego della Valle, the billionaire owner of the Tods fashion empire,always sports a humble but perfectly designed Swatch.

「日內瓦條紋」是腕錶狂熱愛好者 Daniel Sum 主理的博客。他同時也是奢侈品媒體平台「鉑金3號」的創始人之一。如果您想要更深入了解學習腕錶的世界，請掃描二維碼關注並支持 Daniel 的分享。

GENEVA STRIPES is a blog written by Daniel Sum,a passionate watch enthusiast. He is also one of the founders of 鉑金3號, a luxury media marketing platform. To learn more about the interesting world of watches and horology and also support Daniel』s work please scan the QR code.

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