酒廠|對話太平洋板塊:如何對抗整合?Interview with Pacific Plate Brewing Co(上)

最近一直在為中國精釀愛好者做幕後工作,所以專欄沒有更新。我準備在七月份搞個大新聞,你們等著聽我的好消息。當然了目前先賣個關子,如果事成了我一定會大喇叭廣播的。

我先給大家作個揖。

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下面進入正題,因為這篇文章也要給本次接受採訪的對象,太平洋板塊(以下簡稱太板)酒廠的兩位東家Jonathan Parada和Stephen Kooshian看,所以我寫了英語和中文兩個版本,大家湊合著看。

Because I need to show this article to the interviewees, the owners of Pacific Plate Brewing Co., Jonathan Parada and Stephen Kooshian, I wrote an English version and a Chinese version. So bear with me please.

此次對話的音頻請點這 Click here for the audio:

Interview With Pacific Plate Brewing Co.在線收聽_mp3下載

前兩天高岩寫了一篇叫「讓偽精釀滾出中國」的文章,在業內引起了不小的反響。我藉此為契機,採訪了位於洛杉磯市中心東24英里的加州蒙羅維亞市的一家名為「太平洋板塊」的小型精釀酒廠的兩位創始人Jonathan Parada和Stephen Kooshian。

Several days ago, Master Gao wrote an article called "Crafty Beers, Get the Fuck Out of China", and the article caused a lot of discussion within the industry. I took the opportunity and interviewed Jonathan Parada and Stephen Kooshian, the two founders of Pacific Plate Brewing Co., a micro craft beer brewery located 24 miles east of down town Los Angeles in the City of Monrovia, CA.

(左一為Kooshian,他是釀酒師。帶著黑髮帶的是Jonathan,儘管我不知道他丫沒頭髮為什麼要綁頭帶。右一是3位創始人的另一位Steven Cardenas,此次未參加採訪)

(First one on the left is Stephen Kooshian, the Head Brewmaster. The one with the bandana is Jonathan although his hair style does not call for a bandana. The one on the right is Steven Cardenas, one of the three founders of Pacific Plate. Unfortunately, he was not featured in this interview.)

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縮寫:SZ=作者和採訪人Sean Zhang張惟一,SK=史蒂芬酷仙,JP=強納森帕拉達

SZ=Sean Zhang, SK=Stephen Kooshian, JP=Jonathan Parada

本文採用對話中的精彩片段,想聽全部內容請點上面的鏈接,我實在是沒有精力全部翻譯了。

關於太平洋板塊酒廠 About Pacific Plate Brewing Company

SZ: So, could you please briefly tell me about your brewery? Inknow it fairly new and it』s probably one of the newest in Southern California.

SZ:能簡單聊聊您的酒廠嗎?我知道這酒廠還比較新,有可能是南加州最新的一個酒廠。

JP: Augustn30th would be our third year anniversary, and believe it or notnbecause of the explosion of craft beer, especially in California but honestly,nacross the nation, we are absolutely not one of the newer breweries anymore. We』ve got some real credentials with ournHorchata Stout or our Mango IPA. We』ve got a strong following, we』ve got reallynstrong social media presence. So, we are young, but we are not that youngnanymore.

JP:八月30號是我們的三年開張紀念日。因為精釀啤酒在美國的爆炸型發展,尤其是在加州,我們已經不是最新的釀酒廠了,信不信由你。我們的歐恰塔世濤和我們的芒果IPA都口碑很好。我們也有很忠實的客戶群和社交媒體的影響力。所以說,我們很年輕,但是已經沒有你說的那麼嫩了。

(歐恰塔世濤 Horchata Stout) photo from Yelp.com

SZ: Why did you start this brewery?

SZ:你們是怎麼開始這個酒廠的?

JP: Me and Stephen sat together at work and we struck out conversation andnthen I found out he』s a home brewer. And he (Stephen) taught meneverything he had learned. So yeah we are just self-taught and just brewednhomebrew as often as we could.

JP:我和酷仙在公司坐鄰桌,然後我們聊天發現他是家釀愛好者。後來他教給了我所有他會的。我們後來就變成了自學的家釀愛好者,一有空我們就釀酒。

SZ: So, did any of the homebrew you made back thenntransferred into the products over here at Pacific Plate?

SZ:有沒有當時的家釀變成了現在的太板的產品的?

JP: So our Widowmaker IPA was the first beer that we kinda ofnmade because someone else suggested that we make it. He said 「Hey why don』t younguys make a IPA?」 We were making German lagers, and brown ales. we weren』tnreally messing around with IPAs. So we were like OK. SO we made an IPA. Andnthat become our Widowmaker IPA, which is our most popular one. And then we started to falling into the LatinnAmerican stuff, because my father was born in Guatemala and his (Stephen)nmother was born in Nicaragua. So, we kinda grew up with these Central Americannand Latin American flavors like Mango, Agave, and cinnamon.

(寡婦製造者IPA Widowmaker IPA) photo from Yelp.com

JP:我們的寡婦製造者IPA是我們的第一個經別人提醒釀造的啤酒。他說「哥們你們怎麼不弄IPA啊?」我們一直在做德國拉格,棕色埃爾什麼的,當時我們沒有嘗試IPA。所以我們說成啊,就做了一款IPA。後來那個就變成了我們的寡婦製造者IPA,我們最受歡迎的一款。然後我們又嘗試了拉丁美洲的風格。因為我父親是瓜地馬拉生的,然後酷仙的媽媽是尼加拉瓜人。所以我們其實是成長在中美、拉美的風味里的,比如說芒果、龍舌蘭、桂皮什麼的。

SZ: Horchata?

SZ:還有歐恰塔?

JP: Horchata, exactly. But we weren』t seeing that in craftnbeer. So we started to think about how do we incorporate these Latin Americannflavors to really classic beer styles. When we started brewing together we were like hey why don』t we take annEnglish milk stout, which at the time was dying out in style, and try to getnsome horchata flavor to it. And his mom, actually has a Nicaraguan horchatanrecipe, which blended really perfectly with this historical stout. And thatnbecame our horchata stout, which is our other most popular beer.

JP:對對還有歐恰塔。我們沒有在其他精釀啤酒里見過。所以我們就開始琢磨怎麼能把拉美風味融合到經典的啤酒款式里。當我們開始一塊釀酒的時候我們就像為啥我們不拿英式牛奶世濤,當時已經有點過氣的這麼一款啤酒,然後把歐恰塔的風味融進去。酷仙的媽媽有一份尼加拉瓜的歐恰塔食譜,跟這款歷史悠久的啤酒特別搭配。所以後來就有個歐恰塔世濤,我們另一款備受歡迎的啤酒。

SZ: That is my favorite, and for the Chinese listeners whondon』t know, horchata is a drink that』s like part milk part rice..

SZ:也是我的最愛,然後中國聽眾們不知道什麼是歐恰塔的,那是一種一半牛奶一半米湯的一種飲料。

JP: Year, basically it』s sweet Latin American drink, andneach culture has their own version. Mexico has a rice milk version, Nicaraguanis more of a spices and chocolate milk version, so there are many differentnstyle.

JP:對,那就是一種甜味的拉美飲料,每個文化都有他自己的版本。墨西哥是牛奶加米湯,尼加拉瓜的是香料加巧克力奶,所以有很多的不同。

SZ: So it』s more of the Nicaraguan origin.

SZ:那你們的是尼加拉瓜版的。

JP: Exactly, yeah. Think of in America their sweet drink isnsoda, so soda is one thing that』s created in American, and Horchata is more ofntheir kind of version of that.

JP:對沒錯。你就像美國人的飲料是汽水,美國人發明了汽水,那麼歐恰塔就是拉美人的自己的標誌性飲料。

關於酒廠的手續和選址 About The Paper Work and Location of the Brewery

JP: Thenexperience with LA being a potentially small, alcohol manufacturer, was.. itnwas really slow. There was not fluid line of communication. And, it seems asnthough you would need a million dollar just to think about doing manufacturingnin LA proper. Because what they require you to do is to rent a location, andnthen wait the year long process for your ABC to come through. If it comesnthrough.

JP:我們的關於在洛杉磯市內開小酒廠的經驗十分的體驗,怎麼說呢,就是十分的緩慢……根本就不知道跟誰說這個事兒,另外看起來你得至少有一百萬美金才能琢磨怎麼在洛杉磯好好開個酒廠。因為他們要你先租好場地,然後等一年的時間來申請州許可證批下來,那還是如果一年能下得來的情況下。

SZ: So you are basically wasting a year』s worth of rent. Justnto do the paperwork.

SZ:等於你們浪費一年房租等著批文。

JP: Yeah. Just to do the paperwork. Now technically we might be able to set up a brewery and then justndo packaging and sell it to wholesales, but the margin on that is, just.. fornour size the money we had it didn』t make sense.

JP:對,就等批文。其實我們也可以開一個酒廠,只賣瓶裝的不賣散客,但是那個利潤對於我們這個規模的和我們這個資金的人來說根本就不划算。

SZ: I feel you man. As someone who』s from China I totallynfeel you. Talking about bureaucracy, nobody really beats us on that, but comenon. This is 21st century, what the hell.

SZ::我懂。我中國來的,我全懂。別跟我提官僚主義,沒人比我們牛逼。你大爺的,這到底是不是21世紀啊卧槽。

SZ: so then you decided not to do it with LA.

SZ:然後你就決定不在洛杉磯了。

JP: So not LA, and at that point we were so shocked that hownunapproachable they were. We just started looking at every city. We startedneast and made our way back. And we actually almost signed a lease in San Dimas.

JP:恩不在洛杉磯了,然後那會我們都為這幫人的不可理喻震驚了。然後我們就四處開始找,後來差點在一個叫聖迪馬斯的城市簽了房子合同。

SZ: I don』t think you can have a brewery there.

SZ:大哥,那個城市不讓開酒廠。

JP: right. We were looking at the property without firstngoing to the city. So that was like, that』s how green we were. We didn』t know.nWe were about the sign a lease and we were waiting for the real estate agent.nAnd then we said why don』t we go to the city just to tell them we are here, wenare going to sign a lease. I shit you not, they laughed at our faces. They arenlike ahh no that』s not gonna happen. The city has a law that you cannot have anbar.

JP:對,我們先看的房,沒找市政府。你就知道我們當時多菜比了。我們準備簽合同,等中介的時候我們說乾脆去市政府打個招呼,說我們來了哈我們要簽約了。我絕壁不扯淡,他們直接笑翻了。他們說呵呵呵這個沒戲。這城市不讓開酒吧。

SZ: not a bar?

SZ:啊?酒吧也不行?

JP: cannot have a bar unless you serve food. And unless 51%nof the sales comes from the food. So you have to monitor the amount of alcoholnyou sell is less than 49%. We were like really? We are not serving hardnalcohol, just beer. They said no. It』s against city law.

JP: 不賣吃得就不能賣酒。然後你收入的51%要來自於食物。所以你還得看著點,不能賣太多酒,別超過49%的營業額。我們說卧槽你他娘的在都我啊。我們又不賣烈酒我們就賣賣啤酒。他們說那也不行,犯法。

SZ: Sound like a law came from two centuries ago and it』snstill there.

SZ:聽起來像兩百年前的法律,怎麼現在還在……

JP:In the case of Monrovia, a lot of the cities that are farnenough away from LA but is still LA county, they became cities because thenpeople lived there wanted to be in a dry city. So that』s usually why theynincorporate. So I assume that William Monroe, is probably turning over in hisngrave.

JP:那蒙羅維亞這個城市來舉例子,當時很多的離洛杉磯不遠但歸屬洛杉磯郡的城市變成了獨立的城市因為住那得人不想讓城市裡賣酒。所以那就是當時為什麼很多城市獨立出來了。我覺得為威廉蒙羅老人家現在應該墳里輾轉反側呢。

SZ: The founder of the city.

SZ:城市的創始人。

(William Monroe)

JP: Yeah. I promise him we are doing good here.

JP:對,我向他發誓我們現在在做一件好事。

關於酒廠現狀 About the Current Situation of the Brewery

JP: We are sticking to the half classicnbeer line, and the other half we are doing experimental stuff with LatinnAmerican flavor infused stuff. We are all really happy. All three of us have ournindividual economies, and we got employees, now we are adding to the local jobnmarket.

JP:我們現在遵循一半經典款,一半實驗性的拉丁風味啤酒的產品線。我們挺美的。我們仨都有經濟來源、員工要養,然後我們還給本地創造了工作崗位。

SZ: How many employees?

SZ:幾個員工?

JP: We』ve got two brewer assistants, and two taproom. Sonfour, and a fifth person on call if we need him.

JP:我們有倆助理釀酒師、兩個吧台服務員。所以是一共四個,然後有個五號替補隨叫隨到。

SZ: I assume you are planning on upgrading your brewhouse?

SZ:我看你們準備給你們的釀酒設備升級了吧?

JP: Yeah, Right now we are trying to just maximize thenefficiency and how much we can get out of our current system.

JP:對,現在我們正最大化的壓榨我們的現有設備的效率。

SZ: what are you using right now?

SZ:你們現在用的啥?

JP: we are using a 1 barrel brewhouse. So we』ll see backnthere the three barrel fermenters, there』s two 7 barrel fermenters.

JP:我們現在用的是1桶級(31加侖或者說117升)的設備。後面有仨3桶大的發酵罐,然後還有倆7桶大的發酵罐。

SZ: What kind of a response do you get locally, either fromnyour customer or from the residents? I notice you have almost 5 starsnreviews on Yelp. Do you get a lot of requests to do interviews, or do you get anlot of compliments from local community?

SZ:你們在本地的反響怎麼樣,你們顧客或者這邊居民怎麼說?我看你們在點評網上的評價快五星了。有沒有很多人要採訪你們,或者你們有沒有收到很多來自本地社區的贊?

JP: we have a pretty strongnfollowing of people. That kind of strong base is reacting very positively to what we are doing. Wenoccasionally get people in that don』t know what craft beer is, that they arenmaybe used to Tecate or Corona, that』s what all they drink. For them, we arenalways excited to bring them to the horchata stout or the agave wheat.

You need to have the word to continuously getting out andngetting into other』s experiences and getting into their mind like 『oh craftnbeer, there』s so many in Monrovia」. Word of mouth is the most powerful tool,nsecond only to our social media.

JP:我們有很忠實的客戶,他們對我們所做的事表示非常認可。我們偶爾也會有顧客進來,但是他不知道什麼是精釀啤酒的。他們以前只和科羅納這種啤酒。遇到這種客人我們十分興奮,我們很高興能讓他們嘗嘗我們的龍舌蘭麥啤,或者我們的歐恰塔世濤。

你得老有人持續宣傳他們在這的體驗,然後他們會想噢蒙羅維亞,那裡有好多精釀啤酒可以喝。口耳相傳是我們有力的宣傳武器,僅僅次於社交媒體的影響了。

酷仙亂入 Stephen Kooshian Joins

SK: I am Stephen Kooshian, the brewmaster here. This is a Sion Kolsch glass from Cologne, Germany. Somebody made a candle out of it. It has clear yellow wax, and a little head on the beer with white wax.

SK:我是史蒂芬酷仙,釀酒師頭子。這是一個錫安Kolsch玻璃杯,從德國科隆來的。有人拿他做了個蠟燭,下面是黃色蠟,上面是白色的蠟,像啤酒的酒頭。

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上集先到這裡……我先去吃個飯,重磅的、有爭議的、招罵的內容在下一篇。

記得聽Interview With Pacific Plate Brewing Co.在線收聽_mp3下載

你們不給我散播散播嗎?我先謝過了。

Cheers!


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