專訪：解密法式劇院著裝文化

01-26

在《時裝L』Officiel》雜誌八月刊中，刊登了對Guillaume Rué de Bernadac關於歌劇院里女性時裝禮儀的採訪。以下是雜誌採訪內容,外加未刊登詳情獨家揭秘哦~

In its August edition, lOfficiel published an interview of Guillaume Rué de Bernadac regarding the etiquette for womens fashion at the opera. Find the whole interview here,plus some unreleased!

巴黎人都是藝術青年。他們有年輕的心和自由的靈魂，更有對於藝術的熱忱。巴黎人痴迷看展，可以對一幅經典的畫百看不厭；而巴黎女人們聽音樂會更有講究，她們總是妝容精緻，優雅落座，不疾不徐。這不過是有一個稀鬆平常的夜晚，但她們從服飾到妝容，從髮型到配飾，似乎全都在詮釋著她們是在和金碧輝煌的舞台談一場門當戶對的精神戀愛。

Parisians are artistic. They are never old in their hearts and their spirits are free, most importantly, Parisians』 enthusiasm towards art is beyond compare. In art exhibitions,they could study a single painting hundreds of times without getting bored. And whenever there is a concert, you could find Parisian ladies walk slowly to their seats with all their elegance. Perhaps it』s just an ordinary night, but the ladies are all well dressed from head to foot, presenting the best of themselves to tell the others that they are in love with all the glories

當你步入巴黎的歌劇院或音樂廳，誰是觀光客誰是巴黎人便一目了然。歌劇院里的禮儀早已不像幾個世紀以前有那麼多繁文縟節，如今的巴黎女人也不再隨波逐流，但風格變成了傳承。你在巴黎的時尚雜誌里可能很難找到歌劇院著裝指南，因為歌劇院著裝禮儀已然形成了一套完整的體系，隨時代變革，卻不為潮流所動。穿什麼去聽歌劇，在巴黎女人心中渾然天成，形成了一種無需言傳的默契。

As a matter of fact, You could recognize Parisians from tourists the moment you step into an opera house or a concert hall. Etiquette in opera nowadays is not as complicated as it was several centuries ago, and Parisian women do not just follow the trends anymore. Nevertheless, the pursuit of elegance has been passed down. Fashion magazines in Paris might not give you any advice on what to wear for an opera show, for there is already an agreement between http://ladies.In other words, the dressing code for opera follows a set of established requirements which may change with time but never with trends.

Q：高雅音樂是法式文化重要的一部分，那麼音樂之於巴黎人是怎樣的存在？

The elegant music was known as an indispensable part of French culture, what is the meaning of music for authentic Parisians?

A：從十八世紀以來,歌劇就是巴黎人生活中必不可少的一部分。直到二十世紀，它仍是精英們必不可少的社交活動: 你可以在劇院會見要客；或是擴大社交圈；也可以商談生意；甚至可能遇見你未來的丈夫或者妻子以及他們的父母。至今，如果你是巴黎身份地位頗高的人士，你也應該是歌劇院的常客。

The opera had become an essential part of the French culture ever since the 18th century. Until the mid 20th century, it was an unavoidable form of outing ofthe social life for the elites: where you meet important people, where you go if you want to be seen, where you discuss about business, where you could meet your future husband or wife and their parents. And today, if you are some one important in Paris, you would still regularly go to the opera.

Q：當人們參加音樂會的時候，是否有一些特殊的禮儀大家需要特別注意的？

Is there any special etiquette that people need to specifically pay attention to when joining a concert?

A：當然了！去聽歌劇的人通常是十分有教養的，他們在社交場合十分注重自己合適的言行。我們當然應該避免接聽電話，甚至不要看我們的手機（手機屏幕的光在音樂會廳黑暗的環境里也十分耀眼）。如果你渴了，你可以帶一小瓶水在包里，但絕對不能吃東西。一旦音樂開始，我們就不能和鄰座講話，這會讓人覺得你聽得很無聊，更糟糕的情況是你睡著了！我經常看到有人聽歌劇時睡著，這是非常不禮貌的。那麼什麼時候應該鼓掌呢？在中間插曲的時候（不要太久），當然在音樂會結束的時候也要鼓掌（通常有幾分鐘），或者僅僅是聽完一首非常著名的歌曲鼓掌。例如，你可以在莫扎特「魔笛」中的第二樂章「夜女王」演奏完之後鼓掌。

Yes of course! People attending operas are often very educated and paying particular attention to deliver a proper behaviour in social environment. We should of course avoid to have phone calls, or even to look at our phone (the light of the small screen is too shiny in the darkness of the concert hall).You can bring a small bottle of water in your bag in case you are thirsty, but you definitely have to avoid eating. Once the music starts, we cannot talk to our neighbours; give the impression to get bored or even worse, to fall asleep!Trust me, I regularly see people sleeping, attracting fierce disapproving looks from spectators. And then, when shall you applaud? At the interlude (but not too much), of course at the end of the concert (for a few minutes), and also just after a very famous song. For instance, you would applaud after the 2nd aria sung by the 「Queen of the night」 in Mozart』s opera 「The magic flute」.

Q：當女士準備參加音樂會的時候你會推薦哪種類型的穿衣風格？

What kind of dressing style would you recommend for women when they are preparing to attend a concert?

A：這主要取決於你坐在什麼位置。在最靠近舞台的位置，你可以看見女士們穿著華麗的晚禮服和鞋子，戴著珠寶，配有高雅的髮型。一些女士會選擇隆重的晚會禮服，那麼一般是長款晚會禮服（長度超過膝蓋）比較合適。如果禮服的長度在膝蓋上，肩膀千萬不能露出來。你可以搭配一個精緻小外套，或者別緻的圍巾遮一下。我建議你不要買露肩的禮服，即使是長禮服也不要買露肩的，因為歌劇院還是有點冷的。如果你坐的比較高，這些建議依然適用。一些人可能穿著樸素，但看起來也很優雅，比如黑色的套裝、黑色的裙子。在巴黎的歌劇院里千萬不能穿得很隨意！所以，在華麗的舞會禮服和簡單的優雅套裝之間，選擇一款你覺得最舒適的吧！

It clearly depends on where you are sitting. In the stalls, the spot closest to the stage, you would see women wearing glamorous evening dresses and shoes,with jewelleries and sophisticated hairstyle. Some women would dare wearinglarge ball dresses, but a long evening dress (or not shorter than the knees) is very appropriate. If the dress is at the knees, the shoulders must be covered,by an elegant jacket, or a beautiful large scarf for instance. I advise you not to have uncovered shoulders anyway, even with a long evening dress; the opera may be a bit chilly. If you are seated higher in the boxes, these advices are still relevant, you will simply encounter a group of audience wearing more humble clothes, still elegant, like suits, simple black dresses etc... You cannot be casual at an opera in Paris! So, between the glamorous ball dress and the simple elegant suit, just choose the one you are most comfortable with!

Q：巴黎人喜歡配飾，為了增加整體的優雅應該怎樣使用配飾呢？

Parisians love accessories, how to use those accessories to add some grace for the overall look?

A：巴黎女人喜歡圍巾，厚或薄，小塊的或大塊的，單色的或有圖案的，優雅得圍在肩膀上或者圍在脖子上。在我看來，這些都讓你變得更加優雅，如果配上一個無帶手提包就更加完美了。如果你恰好有一個難得用到的漂亮胸針，這絕對是佩戴它的最佳時機。不要忘記噴上香水，克里斯汀·迪奧說過「這是你為禮服加上的最後一個細節」。為了更為優雅，我會建議準備一副精緻的手套！絕對使你更為優雅！

Parisian women love scarves, made from thin or thick materials, short or large, plain colour or with patterns, to cover the shoulders or to be elegantly wrapped around the neck. In my opinion it adds an elegant sophistication, and goes well with a clutch bag. If you have a beautiful brooch you rarely use, this is the perfect moment to wear it. Don』t forget a discreet touch of perfume, Christian Dior used to say it』s the last detail to add on a dress. And also, my advice in order to look extremely gracious: elegant and discreet gloves! It gives so much charm to a woman!

Q：如何優雅又適當的稱讚朋友的裝扮？

How to properly and gracefully compliment a friend about her dressing style?

A：當然是越簡單越好。如果你說：「我親愛的朋友，你今晚看上去容光煥發」這可能會讓你的朋友很尷尬，因為你稱讚過盛。而如果你想對某個特別的細節表示一下關注，可以直接明了地說：「你今晚圍的圍巾真漂亮」。但無亂如何，最好不要問她圍巾哪裡買的，或者問她多少錢買的。

The simplest is the best, make a short statement on the overall look, like 「My dear friend, you look particularly radiant tonight」. It would embarrass your friend to listen to you exclaiming too much about her style. If you want to direct attention to a particular detail, you can simply mention it with one sentence: 「This is a beautiful scarf you are wearing」. At any case you cant ask where she bought it, or, even worse, how much does it cost.

Q：巴黎女人在挑選出席音樂會的服裝顏色時，一般會考慮哪些因素呢？

What are the elements that Parisians will consider when choosing the colour of their clothes for a concert?

A：首先，每個人都知道：一個人的身上不應該超過三種顏色。你最好選擇一個主色，另外一個或兩個顏色作為輔助色來襯托主色。關於主色，巴黎女人特別偏愛黑色。，因為它可以輕而易舉的讓你看上去又優雅又苗條。如果你選了另外一種主色，你需要注意了：不要粉色和橘色（通常被認為是孩子氣的）；不要綠色或者淡藍色（通常在室外活動才穿的）；不要黃色（太顯眼了），等等。這些顏色可以作為輔助色。巴黎女人會根據自己的膚色、發色或者配飾的顏色去選擇她服裝的主色：像紅色、紫色或者白色都很適合黑髮的女士，將她們襯托得優雅美麗。

First there is this well-known rule: you should not display more than 3 colours on you. You better pick one dominant colour, with one or two supplemental colours that will enhance the dominant one. Regarding this dominant colour, Parisian women have particular tastes for the black –which easily makes you look elegant and slimmer. If you pick another dominant colour, you would need to pay attention: no pink or orange (considered as too childish), no green or light blue (for outdoor), no yellow (too visible) etc… These colours can still be the minor colours. A Parisian woman will consider her skin tone, her hair colour or the colour of her accessories to choose the dominant colour for her outfit:colours like red, purple or white go pretty well with dark-haired women.

Q：哪些東西是巴黎女人在參加音樂會時的必備品？

What are the kind of essentials that Parisians will carry with them when they are attending a concert?

A：傳統上講，口紅是巴黎女人一定會隨身攜帶的物品。現在，她也會隨身攜帶消毒劑、護手霜來清潔雙手。最好帶一件外套，以防你坐在離空調很近的地方。如果你坐得離屏幕燈光很近，你甚至可以帶上小扇子和保濕噴霧。

The lipstick was traditionally the element a Parisian woman needs to have with her. Today,she will also bring sanitizer to purify her hands, plus a hand cream. You would rather have a jacket in case you are seated close to the air-conditioning or a fan and water mist spray if you are too close from the lights of the scene.

Q：人們總說「巴黎風情」或「巴黎魅力」，你認為這些印象如何從著裝中體現出來的？

People always say "Paris

temperament" or "Paris charm", how do you think these are being reflected on clothing and dressing?

A：禮儀中有一點特別的地方是，當你打破常規展現自己的個性時，依然可以保持禮教和優雅。對於我來說，這就是「巴黎式的魅力」。比如，一個總是低調、優雅的女人，某天突然選擇穿上了一件又長又亮眼的綠色裙子。大家會認為這種做法很勇敢，但沒人會質疑她的品味。巴黎的女人們喜歡去展現她們的獨立自主。

One of the codes of etiquette is also to know when you can break the etiquette, by still remaining polite and proper but showing your character with an unconventional detail. In my understanding, this is the 「Parisian Charm」.For instance, a woman who is known for being always elegant in the past whowould dare to come with long and shining green dress one night. It would be considered bold, and no-one would question her taste. Parisian women love to show how independent they are!

Q：關於在巴黎去聽音樂會的服裝禮儀，你還有什麼可以和讀者分享的小貼士嗎？

Regarding of the dressing etiquette of attending aconcert in Paris, do you have any more tips to share with our readers?

A：如果你有機會在美輪美奐的巴黎歌劇院加立葉聽一次音樂會，一定要記住我的建議，音樂會結束後，請耐心等待喧鬧的人群散去，不要著急。然後在靜默中走下那一級級神奇的階梯，去感嘆金碧輝煌的牆壁，大師們傳世的繪畫作品，去呼吸整座劇院的氣息，感受充滿魔法般的氛圍。而通過學習我們的禮儀課程，你會更加清楚此刻該怎樣讓自己像王后般步伐優雅!

If you have the chance to attend a concert at the opera Garnier in Paris, the most beautiful one, remember my advice: at the end of the concert, let the crowd leave first,don』t rush. Then, you will have the extraordinary opportunity to go down the amazing stairs in silence, to admire the golden walls, the beautiful master paintings,to breathe this unique ambiance of having a palace for yourself. A magic atmosphere.And thanks to our deportment classes, you would know exactly how to walk like a Queen at this moment!

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