多肉葉子又胖又短長不大怎麼辦？

01-04

如圖，買回來的時候葉子都是薄薄長長的，過了一個冬天后（差點死掉）葉子再也長不回原來那樣了（上左是藍石蓮去年的樣子，上右是現在的樣子，左中是特玉蓮之前的樣子，左下是現在的樣子。）特玉蓮的葉子胖的都卷不起來了，特別肥特別短，藍石蓮的葉子也是只長厚不長長，太后以後就往下卷。如果是水澆多了但是又沒有徒，請問這種情況應該怎麼辦呢？是哪裡出了問題呢？

從題主回復各位的內容來看，我可以自信地回答，題主這些植物既缺光，又缺水。

逐步挪到日照充足、通風好的地方，以正常的頻率（而不是能做到缺光還不徒的頻率）澆水，1-2個生長季後會慢慢恢復的。

題主你看，不是所有人都像我這麼神經病去逐條看回答和回復的，您要是一開始就把如下這條回復放在問題描述里，我第一天就能給您答案了：

花是去年秋天種下的，土是買的配好的。地處北京，住處陰面，所以冬天過的很艱難，放在陽台隔著玻璃曬的太陽，後來溫度太低，凍死好幾顆，就搬到了室內，基
本沒有太陽，那個時候澆水就徒，不澆水感覺植物還是在生長，新葉長得很弱小，幾乎快要死掉了，就送到朋友家（可以曬到太陽）去了，曬了太陽，加上春天溫度
回升，狀態好了很多，葉子一直在長，但是就是長不大，葉片厚，往下翻。

導致植物不健康的原因可能有很多很多，而其中很多病因所導致的癥狀都十分相似。想要得到對症的答案，建議下次在問題描述里直接寫明如下內容：

1、在哪裡養？如陽台、窗檯、露台或大棚等；

2、每日陽光直射時間多長？是否隔玻璃或棚膜等？

3、澆水頻率如何？水源是什麼？可對水源有任何形式的處理？

4、通風情況如何？平時開窗嗎？有風機嗎？

5、土質如何？哪裡買的，怎麼配的？

6、近期以上條件可有任何變化？如是否剛買的，或者從室內挪到露天

另外配有清晰的照片，最好有與健康狀況下或剛購入時的對比照片。這一點題主做得很好。

以上。

發現題主基本的知識其實掌握得不錯，所以另附一篇比較詳細的養殖要點，以供自查之用：

原文：Highland Culture Guide
翻譯：Qiuhan
轉載請註明原文鏈接和譯者
帶圖片的完整版見[翻譯] 多肉養護指南（光照，溫度，給水，休眠，盆的大小，介質等等等等）
The Highland Culture Guide
多肉養護指南

Get
the answers to your cultural questions here with our integrated
approach. All of the basic elements of succulent cultivation are
presented with an emphasis on how to combine them to work for you. It"s
not just another Do"s and Don"ts list.
這是一份綜合性的養護方法論述，你能從中得到大部分問題的解答。本文將從實踐的角度出發，講述如何滿足和利用多肉植物的基本習性，可不是什麼簡單的一二三四類指南。
With
this guide as a starting point you"ll know why you"re doing things.
With a little experience you"ll soon be solving your own problems and
growing very good plants.
本文旨在授之以漁，而非授之以魚。只需要稍微結合一下實踐，你很快就能夠自己解決問題，並種出完美的植株。

Contents
目錄
Light And Your Strategy
光線與應對策略
Temperature
溫度
Watering

給水
Dormancy
休眠
Making Changes - Timing
移栽的時機
Growing In Containers
盆栽的要點

Supplies: Mix, Nutrients, Containers
植料，營養，植器
Pests
蟲害
Basic Equipment List
基本裝備列表

Speak The Language
拉丁語...入門
For
many, entering the world of succulent plants and the people who collect
and trade in them means confronting the Latin botanical nomenclature
used to name and describe this natural world. Don』t be put off by this!
對於很多人來說，進入多肉植物的世界最大的障礙就是用來描述自然世界的拉丁語命名法，以至於在收集和交易植物的時候遇到莫大的阻礙。但不要退縮！
Learning
the botanical names of your plants and how to pronounce them is
essential to cultivating and building your collection. Abandon the use
of common names such as 「snake plant」 or 「pencil cactus」 in favor of
Sansevieria and Euphorbia. Common names are not unique and will only
lead to confusion.
知道你家寶貝的學名和發音規則，對於有志向的愛好者來說是必修的一課。別再提那些俗名了，什麼「蛇草」，「鉛筆仙人掌」，你應該叫她們「虎尾蘭」和「大戟」。俗名和植物的品種並不是一一對應的，用起來只會引起不必要的混淆。

All
you really have to know is that each plant is a single species or a
hybrid of two or more species, and like species are organized into a
larger single group called a genus such as Pachypodium. In turn, groups
of similar genera make up the plant families such as Apocynaceae which
includes the genera Pachypodium and Adenium. Genus and species in that
order are used exclusively when referring to any plant. So instead of
「Madagascar Palm」 we use Pachypodium lamerei or Adenium obesum in place
of 「Desert Rose」.
通過學名，你能夠掌握每種植物到底是獨立的品種還是雜交品種，並且將之歸到更大的類別，即「屬」里，比如「棒
槌樹屬」。當然，具有相似特性的「屬」還會形成級別更高的「科」，比如「夾竹桃科」，包括棒槌樹屬和沙漠玫瑰屬。屬和品種名組成植物的學名，所以，所謂的
「馬達加斯加棕櫚」實際上應當叫做Pachypodium lamerei，而「沙漠玫瑰」則學名Adenium obesum。
Don』t
be intimidated or embarrassed when attempting to pronounce these
strange names. Everyone makes mistakes but with a little experience it
becomes second nature. To get started you could even watch The Victory
Garden on PBS where they consistently use genus and species when
discussing plants of all kinds.
當你讀這些奇怪的名字時，千萬別覺得尷尬或害羞。沒有人能一點錯誤都不犯，但只要多練習幾次，你一定能熟悉這些單詞。一開始，你可以多看看《Victory Garden》這個電視節目，裡面用的都是很標準的拉丁文學名。
Light And Your Strategy
光線與應對策略

By
far the single most important element for growing quality plants is
available light. Succulents need serious natural light. This means a
full southern exposure with nothing between your plants and the sun
except possibly the window glass or greenhouse glazing. A full southern
exposure is one which receives all available light for most of the day.
Avoid locations which are blocked by trees or buildings.
毫無疑問，種出完美植株的最重要因素就是光照。多肉植物需要非常充沛的陽光，這意味著南向採光是必須的，而且在植物和陽光之間除了玻璃或溫室覆膜之外最好什麼都不要隔。所謂的南向採光，是指全年大部分時候都能享受到全天日照，而且要避免被樹或者建築擋住。
In
a perfect world, your plants would be growing in a blazing southern
exposure and receiving 360° light. This would of course mean a perfectly
situated greenhouse or an outside location in a frost free climate.
Such facilities are impossible for many of us but this does not mean
that you still can』t grow first rate quality plants. This is where your
strategy is required.
在理想的情況下，你的植物最好能受到南向的充足陽光，且光照要來自360度方向。當然，這就意味著一個位置完美的溫室，或者在沒有霜降的氣候下的露養環境。這樣的要求對於大多數愛好者都不太現實，但也不是說達不到就養不出一流的品相。這時候，一點策略就是必要的了。
Your
strategy should be to give your plants the light they need when they
need it. The keyword here is when. Most succulents will enter an annual
dormancy period and will tolerate less than ideal light during this part
of their life cycle.
你的策略就是在植物需要的時候才給她們所需的陽光，時機非常重要。許多多肉植物都有休眠期，在休眠的時候，她們並不要求最理想的日照環境。
If
you are growing indoors, the preferred strategy is to move your plants
outside during the summer months for optimum light during their growth
period then winter them over in southern windows when they are dormant.
如果你是在室內種植，最好是能夠在生長季把她們挪出室外，休眠期則可以放在南窗下。
If
you are restricted to indoor conditions year round, you must
compromise. Regardless of how good your windows are, you will still be
providing light from only one direction and there will be a few plants
that will not tolerate less than ideal light. You will have to restrict
your collection to those genera which will grow well in your conditions
or simply move your plants to better light.
如果你全年都只能受限於室內環境，那就只能妥協了。無論你窗戶的位置有多好，植物都只能受到一個方向的日照，並不是所有多肉植物都能接受這樣不理想的光線的。
If
you are growing in a greenhouse or outside in frost free conditions,
sufficient light is not your problem. In many parts of the southern and
southwestern U.S. your problem can be too much light and some sun
filtering material is in order especially for smaller plants in small
containers.
如果你有溫室或能在無霜地帶露養，那陽光根本不是問題。實際上，在美國西南部地區，光線反而可能太強烈了，需要給幼小的植物適當遮陰。
Artificial
light will keep most but not all succulent plants alive but that"s
about it. After more than a month or two under fluorescent tubes for
example, plants take on a very soft weak look and quickly lose their
appeal. Artificial light is best used as a supplement to your winter
source if you bring your plants indoors during the winter months.
人工光源確實可以維持大部分（不是全部）多肉植物的存活，但也僅限於基本的存活。舉個例子吧，在熒光燈管下生活了一兩個月的植株會非常軟且柔弱，外形大不如前。補光燈最好只作為冬季室內養殖時的補充光源使用。
These
strategies apply to summer growing (winter dormant) succulents. As you
will discover, many genera are winter growing (summer dormant) which
definitely makes providing sufficient light even more challenging.
However it is possible!
當然了，對於那些冬季生長的品種來說，在生長季給她們充足的光源更成問題，但這也並不是不可能的事。
How
can you tell if your plants are receiving proper light? Their general
appearance will be compact with the distance between the leaves very
short. Leaves will also be small not big and floppy. Rosettes of leafy
succulents such as Echeveria will be tight while leaves and bodies of
extremely succulent types such as lithops will be compact and colorful,
not bloated and soft looking.
要如何分辨你的植物是否接受到了充足的光照呢？這就要看她們的外形是否緊湊，葉片間的距離是不是非常短，葉子是否短粗精悍不耷拉。葉子呈蓮座狀分布的擬石蓮等品種應當株型聚攏，生石花等肥厚的品種應當矮壯且色彩艷麗，不能虛胖柔弱。
Some
of the most light sensitive succulents are the Crassulaceae (echeveria,
crassula, graptopetalum, kalanchoe, sedum, etc.), Mesembs (lithops,
conophytum, etc.) and Apocynaceae (pachypodium, adenium) while some of
the least light sensitive are the Liliaceae (aloes, haworthias), many
euphorbias, sansevierias, and stapeliads.
對光線非常敏感的多肉植物包括景天科（擬石蓮屬，青鎖龍屬，風車草屬，伽藍菜屬，景天屬等），番杏科（生石花屬，肉錐花屬等）和夾竹桃科（棒槌樹屬，沙漠玫瑰屬），對光線要求沒那麼高的則有百合科（蘆薈屬，十二卷屬），許多大戟科品種，虎尾蘭和蘿藦。
There
are many factors to consider if you want to grow first rate, truly
beautiful plants but by far, providing sufficient light is the most
important. There is hardly anything more unattractive or that reflects
poor cultivation technique than an etiolated or stretched out succulent.
Etiolation is not reversible, unless the subject can be started again
from a cutting, so once this occurs, the plant is ruined. Study your
conditions and adopt a strategy for providing proper light. There is no
substitute.
如果想要養出極品的美麗植株，光照是最重要的。沒有什麼比徒長的多肉更能反應種植者技術不合格了。徒長是不可逆的，除非砍頭重新開始。因此一旦徒了，這棵多肉就毀了。好好研究你的養殖環境，務必找出合適的光線供給策略，這是不可替代的。

Temperature
溫度
Most
collectable succulents, which includes all the plants you will find on
this web site, are not hardy. Although a few Agaves and Sedums might
take a few degrees of frost, they will not tolerate freezing
temperatures.
許多市面上販賣的多肉植物都不耐寒。雖然有些龍舌蘭和景天屬多少能忍耐些輕微的霜降，卻並不耐凍。
We maintain a minimum of 55° F year round for most plants while keeping our most sensitive species at 60° F.
我們一年四季給植物的最低溫度是華氏55度（攝氏12度左右），一些敏感的品種則維持在華氏60度（攝氏十五度）以上。
Maximum
temperatures are usually determined by weather conditions and
succulents are well adapted to tolerate temperatures slightly over 100°
F. Prolonged exposure to excessive heat usually prompts most plants to
simply go dormant and wait it out.
最高溫度則取決於天氣，大部分多肉都能很好地適應華氏100度（攝氏38度）的氣溫。長時間的高溫頂多是讓她們休眠而已。
Many
plants can however be damaged by excessive heat and if you are growing
in a greenhouse or any other type of solar structure, constant air
movement is essential. Hot stagnant air will rapidly damage most
succulents.
當然了，過高的溫度還是會損傷植株，尤其是對於溫室等全日照的養殖環境來說，這時良好的空氣流通十分必要。高熱且靜止的空氣會很快置多肉於死地。

Watering
給水
When
and how much to water your plants has always been a controversial
subject. Far too much complexity has been made of this very basic
element of cultivation that we all must practice.
Most importantly,
it』s crucial to your development of a sound cultural technique that you
realize many elements cannot be prescribed or decided for you. You must
observe. Watering is certainly one of these elements and you alone must
decide.
澆水的時機和量一直是個有爭議的話題。儘管對於養肉來說這是一個非常基本的要素，人人必經，但卻非常複雜。關鍵是，澆水需要與你的種植環境和習慣配套，別人的經驗無法硬搬。你必須細心觀察，澆水是那種只有你自己才能幫助自己的事情。
The
general idea should be not how much but when to water, and this is
largely determined by your environment. If your conditions are good and
you are using a quality growing medium, most plants will dry out in just
a few days. So as a good starting point use this simple rule: do not
let containers become dust dry at any time. It works. Water, wait until
the plant uses what you gave it, then water again.
基本上，澆水的時機比澆水的量更重要，而時機取決於你的環境。如果你的種植條件很理想，介質使用得很科學，大部分盆栽幾天內就會幹透了。因此第一要義是：永遠不要讓盆栽干到冒煙。真的。澆水，等到植物用光了你給她的水，就再澆。
How
can you tell if a plant has used what you gave it? Pick it up. If the
pot feels light, water until it appears at the drainage holes. With a
little experience, you will quickly be able to tell if water is needed
just by looking.
你怎麼知道植物用光了水分呢？掂一掂。如果盆很輕了，就澆透直到水從排水孔流出來。只需要一點點經驗，你就可以憑眼睛就知道植物是不是需要澆水了。
Don』t
think of watering as an exact science where every drop must be
measured. It』s just not that critical. Make sure your plants are well
watered and forget it. Yes there are some succulents that are more
sensitive to over and under watering but observation and experience will
ready you for these.
不要以為澆水是一種精確的科學，以至於每一滴用水都要精密地測量。沒有那樣嚴苛的。確保你的植物有水喝，然後就忘了這件事吧。確實有一些多肉對水分多少十分敏感，但只要多觀察，多積累經驗，你很快就能很好地應付她們了。
When
watering, use a good breaker on your hose or a soft rose on your can.
This prevents root damage caused from washed out mix. And finally do not
push anything into your containers to test the moisture level. This
means your finger or those awful dreaded moisture meter probes.
Succulents have delicate fragile roots and you will only damage them.
Broken roots can rapidly lead to rotted plants from this bad novice
habit.
澆水的時候一定要用好一點的噴頭，或者倒水的時候動作輕柔一些。這樣可以防止水流衝掉基質，損傷根部。而且千萬不要為了掌握盆土的濕
度而往盆里插任何東西，包括手指或者奇奇怪怪的別的東西（譯者註：比如牙籤）。這是一個壞習慣，多肉植物的根系十分纖弱，插東西只會傷了根，而受傷的根部
很容易腐爛。

Dormancy
休眠
The least understood and
most critical time for cultivating succulents is the dormancy or rest
period. Most losses occur during or shortly after this time because
plants are kept too dry and not monitored. This is the number one reason
for failure.
休眠期對於多肉來說是一個危險的時段，對於種植者來說則顯得有些神秘。許多植株都在休眠期間或之後不久死去，大多由於休眠時過於乾旱或沒有得到仔細監護。
Dormancy
is a fact of life. Plants gradually move into a rest period in response
to dropping light and temperature levels. They need this break to stay
healthy. Your job is to coast them through it.
休眠是她們生命周期的一部分，當光線和溫度不再適合她們活躍的時候，她們就需要休息一下，以維持健康的狀態。而你的任務則是陪伴她們度過這段時期。
The
first sign that a plant is entering dormancy is that it stops growing.
Soon after, leaves begin to yellow and drop, rosettes tighten and
contract, or for very succulent groups such as mesembs, bodies can pull
themselves into the soil and develop a papery covering as protection.
植物進入休眠的第一個徵兆是停止生長。然後很快葉子會變黃脫落，蓮座合攏。有些種類的多肉（比如番杏），身體會全部縮進土裡，長出一層紙一樣的外皮以保護自己。
You
may not see much happening on the outside, but even in this state, your
plants are not just sitting there. Transpiration is still going on and
this moisture must be replaced. They need feeder roots to take up this
moisture so naturally plants cannot be kept so dry that these roots
desiccate and die. This can easily happen to slow growing species and
the consequences will not become apparent until spring when growth
commences and plants begin to fail. Plants are failing in April and May
because of what you did over the winter months. Signs of trouble often
take months to appear.
雖然外表上看不出來，但其實休眠的時候植物並沒有閑著。蒸騰作用還在繼續，水分供給不能停。她們的
根部需要一定的濕度，所以不能完全保持乾燥，否則根系就會幹死了。對於長得慢的品種來說，頹敗的跡象可能要到開春才會顯現。你冬天對她們的所作所為，四五
月份就會得到報復了，雖然這種報復可能遲好幾個月才會降臨。
So how often should you water during
the rest period? Again it largely depends on your conditions, i.e. how
fast they dry out. If you live where it』s cool during the winter, your
plants will rapidly dry from heating equipment being present so one or
two waterings per week may be required. If you live in a mild climate,
possibly every other week will work. Just water, give them a good dry
spell to the point where pots feel light but not dust dry, then water
again.
所以休眠期間應該怎麼澆水呢？還是那句話，取決於你的養殖環境，即盆土干透的速度。如果你那裡的冬天比較寒冷，屋裡又有暖氣的話，土
很快就會幹透了，因此每周澆水一兩次是合理的。如果你住的地方氣候溫和，也許每隔一周澆一次更合適。要點就是澆水，等水分消失乾淨，即盆變輕但又尚未乾到
冒煙的時候，澆下一次。
What about the plants that are summer dormant and how
should they be treated? Since this group is resting during the warmest
time of the year, they will dry out much faster than the winter dormant
species and therefore require more frequent waterings. As a starting
point, water these every other time you water your summer growers but
again, it completely depends on your conditions. During extremely hot
weather, they may need water every day.
那夏季休眠的植物應該怎麼照顧呢？由於這幫傢伙選在一年中最熱的時候睡覺，盆土會比冬天幹得更快，需要更頻繁的給水。通常來說，夏天可以每澆兩次夏型種，澆一次冬型種。但還是那句話，這完全取決於你的環境。在特別炎熱的時候，她們甚至可能需要每天澆水。
It』s
important to remember that you can』t force your plants into or out of
dormancy by withholding or applying moisture. The one exception to this
is the mistaken advice one often hears that succulents should be kept
completely dry when dormant. In this case they will indeed go dormant
but unfortunately it will likely be permanent.
要注意的是，你是不能通過給水量來控制植物是否休眠的。當然了，這裡有一個例外，就是那句「多肉在休眠的時候應該完全斷水」。如果你真這麼幹了，那麼她們當然會休眠，而且永遠不會醒了。
To
better understand dormancy and its role in your cultivation, you must
be aware of when your plants are actually dormant. Succulents can be
organized by genus into the two groups of winter and summer dormant with
the most popular genera presented in our Dormancy Table. There are a
few exceptions for individual species.
為了更好地掌握你家植物休眠的狀況，知道她們什麼時候休眠非常重要。根據她們的天性，多肉可以分為夏型種（夏季生長，冬季休眠）和冬型種（冬季生長，夏季休眠）。下面這張表格列出了常見的屬的休眠時間，但個別品種可能有例外。

DORMANCY TABLE
休眠時間表
WINTER DORMANT
冬季休眠，夏季生長——夏型種
This
group is generally regarded as the 「summer growers」. They have adapted
to our northern hemisphere cycle and are dormant from November through
February. Many of these will also enter a pseudo rest period for a few
weeks during the hottest part of the summer before putting on a final
burst of growth in September and October.
這一類多肉長被稱為夏型種，生長於北半球，從十一月休眠至次年二月。但在夏季最炎熱的時候，她們也會進入假休眠，假休眠通常持續數個星期，然後在九十月份再大爆發一次。
Adenia
Adenium 沙漠玫瑰屬
Agave 龍舌蘭屬
Alluaudia 亞龍木屬
Brachystelma
Bursera
Calibanus
Ceropegia 吊燈花屬
Cissus
Cyphostemma
Didieria
Dorstenia
Echeveria 擬石蓮屬
Encephalartos
Euphorbia 大戟屬
Ficus
Fockea 火星人屬
Huernia
Ibervillea
Ipomoea
Jathropha
Lithops 生石花屬
Monadenium 翡翠柱屬
Moringa
Operculicarya
Pachypodium
Pedilanthus
Plumeria
Pseudolithos 凝蹄玉屬
Pterodiscus
Raphionacme 蘿藦屬
Siningia
Stapelianthus
Synadenium
Tillandsia 鐵蘭屬
Trichocaulon
Trichodiadema 仙寶屬
Xerosicyos
SUMMER DORMANT
夏季休眠，冬季生長——冬型種
Usually
referred to as the 「winter growers」, these genera are dormant during
the warmer months of May through August. Their primary growth actually
occurs during autumn and spring while slowing considerably during true
winter. Many will exhibit marginal growth during the summer months as
well especially in the Lily and Crassulaceae families.
通常叫做「冬型種」，這些屬在暖和的時候休眠，從五月到八月。他們的生長季其實在春秋，冬天裡生長速度會顯著放緩。許多品種在夏天也會有微弱的長勢，對於百合和景天科植物來說尤為如此。
Adromischus 天錦章屬
Aeonium 蓮花掌屬
Aloe 蘆薈屬
Anacampseros 回歡草屬
Astroloba
Avonia
Bowiea 蒼角殿屬
Bulbine
Ceraria 長壽城屬
Conophytum 肉錐花屬
Cotyledon 銀波錦屬
Crassula 青鎖龍屬
Dioscorea 龜甲龍屬
Dudleya 仙女杯屬
Fouqueria
Gasteria 鯊魚掌屬
Gibbaeum 駝峰花屬/藻鈴玉屬
Graptopetalum 風車草屬
Graptoveria 風車石蓮屬
Haemanthus
Haworthia 瓦葦屬/十二卷屬
Kalanchoe 伽藍菜屬
Neohenricia
Othonna 厚敦菊屬
Pachycormus
Pachyphytum 厚葉草屬
Pachyveria 厚葉石蓮屬
Pelargonium 天竺葵屬
Peperomia 椒草屬
Portulacaria 馬齒莧屬
Sansevieria 虎尾蘭屬
Sarcocaulon 月界屬/龍骨葵屬
Sedeveria 景天石蓮屬
Sedum 景天屬
Senecio 千里光屬
Stomatium
Talinum
Tylecodon

Making Changes - Timing
移栽的時機
When
to repot, prune excess growth, take cuttings, or in any way physically
disturb your plants is closely related to dormancy. Succulents differ
from many other types of plants when it comes to making changes and the
last thing you want to do is disturb them when they are resting. Rare
slow growing species are particularly senspurneitive and drastic changes
can indeed be fatal.
換盆、修剪、砍頭或其他任何物理上改變植物的行徑都必須嚴肅地考慮到休眠的問題。多肉植物和其他很多植物非常不同，休眠的時候不願意受到任何打擾。一些長的很慢的品種是尤其敏感的，不合時宜的移栽很可能會致命。
When
repotting, wait until you see signs of new growth. Shaping or trimming
back excess growth is best done right before the growth period. For
summer growers this would be March and for winter growers, it means
August. Fast growing robust species can usually be repotted or pruned
anytime.
想要換盆的話，要看到植物生長的跡象了才能下手。修剪要在生長季即將開始的時候進行。對於夏型種而言，三月是個好時間，對於冬型種來說，則是八月。但有些皮實的品種全年什麼時候都可以換盆或修剪。

Growing In Containers
盆栽的要點
Cultivating
succulents in containers is vastly different than other plant groups.
Using the right size pot has a huge effect on the appearance of any
plant. It』s a natural tendency to want to give your plants plenty of
root space in the mistaken belief that this will make them grow better
or faster. In fact it has the opposite effect as most succulents will
slow to a crawl. Many slow growing rare species stop altogether because
they just don』t like sitting in a large volume of moist mix. Most
experienced growers eventually rethink how they pot and abandon the urge
to overpot.
盆栽多肉和盆栽其他植物很不一樣。植器的大小是否合適對於對於植物的外觀有很大影響。常見的誤區是，你想要用大盆給植物
根部充足的生長空間，以為這樣她們就能長得又快又好了。實際上則正相反，許多多肉在這種情況下反而會放慢生長速度。一些長得慢的稀有品種甚至可能會完全停
止生長，因為她們就是不喜歡呆在這麼多潮乎乎的土裡。許多老道的種植者都已經在反思這個問題了，並放棄使用過大的植器。
When
repotting, go up only ? inch in pot size. For larger plants in 5 inch or
larger containers, you can safely increase in one inch increments. If
you use a container that is too large, the roots will grow out of
proportion to the rest of the plant and most of the growth energy will
be channeled to the branches and leaves. One look at a plant with a
large crown of thin branches and floppy leaves usually reveals a
container that is too large.
換盆的時候，盆的尺寸只要增加0.5英寸（1.27厘米）就夠了。對於那些5英寸
（12.7厘米）以上的大盆而言，1英寸（2.54厘米）的升級也足矣。如果你用了過大的植器，根部與植株其他部位的生長會不成比例，導致能量都被花費在
分枝和葉子上。有些植株的樹冠過大，枝幹細弱，葉子軟榻，一眼就能看出來是用盆過大。
The right size container makes a big difference when repotting.
植器的大小對植株十分重要
The
Cissus tuberosa on the left has been kept in the same 3 inch pot for 4
years and has developed a nice caudex. The plant on the right was
started at the same time from the same size cutting but over potted in a
4 inch container.
左邊這顆Cissus tuberosa躺在3英寸（7.62厘米）的盆里有四年了，他長出了一個壯碩的莖部。右邊這顆和左邊的來自同一顆母本，同時切下來的，但一開始就種在了4英寸（10.16厘米）的盆里。
When
repotting, disturb the roots as little as possible. Usually the root
ball will come out intact in one solid piece. Leave it this way and do
not attempt to crush or spread it out like you would for a tropical.
This will only set the plant back and can quickly lead to fatal root
rot. Also do not put old pot chards, gravel, or anything else in the
bottom of your container. This will actually promote root tip decay.
Simply use a piece of screen wire to cover the drainage hole.
換盆的時候，要
盡量避免損傷根系。通常，根部會緊抱著土壤，形成一個球狀。就讓她這樣吧，別像對熱帶植物一樣還要把土都扒拉掉或把根系整理分明，這隻會讓植株狀態衰退，
也很容易導致要命的爛根。也不要把舊盆土或者碎石等墊在盆底，實際上這會讓根部的尖端頹敗。簡單地用網線（紗窗，防蟲網）蓋住排水孔就夠了。

Supplies: mix, nutrients, and containers
植料，營養和植器
MIX
- mix is a term used in the horticulture trade for growing medium and
is always a controversial subject. Exotic formulae and wildly
conflicting advice abound and it』s difficult for the newcomer to sort it
out. Using a quality mix is absolutely vital to growing superb plants
and you shouldn』t think of it as just 「dirt」 you put in the container
along with your plant.
植料——植料是園藝裡面對種植介質的叫法，它的選取一直很有爭議。那些稀奇古怪的配方和自相矛盾的建議總是讓新手們一頭霧水。想養出漂亮的植株，好的介質十分重要，不要以為你放在花盆裡的只是所謂的「土」而已。
Is
it better to buy commercial mix or make your own? The answer is clearly
in favor of commercial products. Note that we are referring to
professional products and not consumer type mixes like the generic
「cactus soil」 you might find at the discount store. The manufacturing of
growing medium is complex and technical and is best left to specialized
industry. If you choose to make your own, keep in mind that there are
many issues to consider for which most of us are not prepared.
是買商家配好的介質，還是自己配好呢？當然是商家配好的了。請注意，我們這裡說的是專業的產品，而不是市面上打折店裡賣的什麼「仙肉土」。製造植料的工藝很複雜，最好還是留給專業廠家去做。如果你想要自己配植料，請記住有許多問題都是我們通常考慮不到的。
There
have been great advances in the last 15 years in commercial growing
medium and the trend is definitely toward soilless mixes. These come in a
variety of formulations with the composted bark being the best. Few
growers today use soil based medium as the results realized with
soilless mixes are so outstanding.
最近的15年里，商業販賣的介質有了長足的進步，並朝著無土化發展。這些植料的配方多種多樣，其中混合樹皮是最好的。現在已經很少有人用園土配的介質了，誰叫無土植料那麼好用呢？
Simply
stated, soilless mixes are based on the matrix concept which is nothing
more than a given volume of semi-uniform size particles which provides
for maximum growth. Nutrients are then added as fertilizer in solution
or incorporated dry into the matrix. The matrix is a carefully
constructed blend of composted bark (not landscaping bark),
horticultural grade peat (not more than 20%), perlite (baked pumice),
vermiculite, and a buffering agent to adjust and stabilize pH. It
contains no field soil or aggregate whatsoever.
簡單來說，無土配方的基質是一些大小均勻的顆
粒，以保證植物的健康生長，然後再以溶液或固體的方式添加養分。基質中科學地混合有腐熟的樹皮（不是作景觀用的樹皮），園藝級的泥炭（不超過20%），珍
珠岩（烘烤過的輕石），蛭石，以及用於調整土壤ph值的助劑。裡面不含有任何園土或集料。
Two important physical
characteristics to consider for any good mix are drainage and weight.
One common myth surrounding the notion of what constitutes a proper mix
for succulents is the idea that all moisture must absolutely drain away
very rapidly leaving no excess, and consequently no reserve, so as to
avoid failure from rot. You may indeed avoid root rot with a super fast
draining mix but you will also avoid normal growth as your plants will
slow to a glacial pace. A good mix must make both moisture and nutrients
available and one that drains too rapidly lacks this essential
function.
評價基質是否優秀的兩個重要標準是透水性和重量。傳說中，好的多肉植物介質必須能夠讓所有水分迅速排干，不保水，以避免根腐。
你當然可以照此選用乾的特別快的介質預防爛根，但這樣也預防了植物的正常生長，排水性過好的介質會讓你的多肉長得像冰川移動那麼慢。好的介質要保證一定的
濕潤度和營養，乾的太快的達不到這樣的標準。
The very worst mix is a heavy mix and
should be avoided at all cost. For roots to develop and function
properly they need oxygen for respiration. A quality mix will allow
oxygen to enter and carbon dioxide and other gasses to escape and
therefore must be light in weight. Good respiration is essential for a
large vigorous root system and general plant health.
非常重的基質不好，應當不惜一切代價避免。根部的生長和作用需要呼吸，呼吸需要氧氣。好的介質能夠讓氧氣進入土壤，讓二氧化碳和其他廢氣排出，因此重量上會非常輕。良好的呼吸是發展出強大且健壯的根系所必須的，也是維持植物健康所必不可少的要素。
A
heavy mix will simply suffocate roots and is usually one which contains
aggregate of some sort which should be avoided. Common aggregate used
includes sand, gravel, turface, and pumice. Agricultural pumice is used
to some degree in the southwestern U.S. as a growing matrix because it
is readily available. It is very warm in this region and plants grown in
this media will dry out at a sufficient rate but in a more temperate
climate, such as the northern and eastern U.S., pumice is much too heavy
and soggy. This is because it has an open-celled structure. Superior
results are obtained with perlite, which is closed-celled, over pumice.
沉
重的介質會讓根部窒息，通常都是集料，必須加以避免。常見的集料包括沙子，碎石，蒙脫石和輕石。園藝輕石作為種植介質在美國西南部用得比較普遍，因為觸手
可得。這些地區的氣候炎熱，種在輕石里的植株會幹得足夠快。但對於氣候更加溫和的地區，比如美國北部和東部，輕石就太重、太保水了。輕石的結構中空，易儲
水，相比較起來珍珠岩就好得多，它的結構閉合。
A major problem for the hobbyist grower is
finding a source for soilless mix. A small number of well stocked
garden centers do have them for sale but a good alternative is to
inquire at a local commercial greenhouse business. The owners are
usually dedicated plant lovers and will be more than willing to supply
you with a bag or two.
對於業餘愛好者來說，找一種合適的無土介質很困難。有些庫存充裕的園圃倒是會賣植料，但最好還是問問本地的商業大棚。這些大棚的主人通常是資深的植物愛好者，一般還是很願意賣給你一兩袋的。
These
mixes are formulated for greenhouse crops grown in containers and when
used for succulents need to be slightly adjusted with perlite. A good
starting point is three parts mix to one part perlite. You will not be
changing the basic design of the mix but do not overdo the perlite.
Never add other ingredients such as soil or aggregate which will defeat
the entire soilless concept.
他們的介質是為溫室盆栽設計的，用在多肉身上需要加一點珍珠岩。可以試試用三份介質加一份珍珠岩混合。你無需改變介質的基本配比，也不要加太多的珍珠岩。千萬別再加其他成分了，比如園土啊，集料啊什麼的，否則就會破壞無土介質的概念了。
A
constructive way to think about your growing medium is that it should
provide some margin of error in watering. One often hears such mistaken
advice to the effect that what works for one could be disastrous for
another. A quality mix will perform well in a variety of conditions. If
you experience frequent plant losses, you may want to consider another
mix no matter how good you think your current one is. Go slowly when
making changes. Experiment with just a few plants you are familiar with
and observe results.
關於種植介質還有一個創造性的思維，那就是要給澆水留出一定的容錯率。人們常聽到不同的環境需要不同的
介質這種說法，但其實好的介質不管在什麼條件下都是好的。如果你家植株經常意外死亡，你就得好好反思一下自己的介質是不是有問題了。改變介質的配比要一步
步來，先拿幾株植物做實驗，直到你熟悉了各種材料的使用效果。
NUTRIENTS - it』s essential to
provide nutrients in some form during the growing season and then taper
off to none when your plants are dormant. A constant low dosage balanced
water soluble fertilizer every time you water (constant feed) is
preferred.
營養——生長季里提供一定的營養是必要的，然後逐漸降低養分供給，到了休眠的時候就不要施肥了。最好是能夠在每次澆水的時候混合一些可溶性液體肥。
Use
a good commercial brand such as Peters and avoid hobby or gimmick type
products. Quality fertilizers can be found at most garden centers and
come in many formulations. A general purpose 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 works
well with succulents. There are also formulae with added trace elements
for use with soilless mixes and these are very beneficial. If you opt
for the low dosage constant feed schedule, mix at ? recommended strength
which will yield about 50ppm nitrogen. Adjust to higher rates if you
feed less often (pulse feed).
肥料要選擇靠譜的商業品牌，比如Peters，不要用假貨和便宜貨。好的肥料通常在
園藝店有售，有許多不同的配方。對於多肉來說，20-20-20或者20-10-20的配方都挺好用。還有一些肥料裡面添加了微量元素，是專門為無土介質
設計的，很有用。如果你選了每次澆水時施薄肥的方法，每次用四分之一的標準濃度就夠了，這樣能夠提供50ppm的氮。如果你施肥的頻率較低，那就調整到更
高的濃度。
An alternative to water soluble formulations is resin
coated time release fertilizer. This is incorporated into your mix or
applied as a top dressing and lasts for a specified time. Excellent
brands are Nutricote and Osmocote in 13-13-13, 180 day formula.
每次澆水施薄肥的方法還有一個替代品，就是緩釋肥。緩釋肥可以埋在介質里或者灑在土表，其作用可以持續一段時間。比較靠譜的牌子有Nutricote和Osmocote的13-13-13,180天配方。
Not
all succulents need feeding. Many groups become soft and unhealthy if
added nutrients are applied and look best if grown lean. These include
most of the Crassulaceae (echeveria, crassula, sedum, graptopetalum,
etc.), almost all mesembs (lithops, etc.), and senecios.
不是所有的多肉都需要施肥。許多品種施完肥會看起來軟塌塌的，不健康，不如長在貧瘠的介質里的樣子。這些品種包括大部分的景天科（擬石蓮屬，青鎖龍屬，景天屬，風車草屬等），幾乎所有的番杏科（生石花等）和千里光屬。
CONTAINERS
- it』s important to use the correct size container as explained above
but should you use plastic or terra cotta? Many consider this an
aesthetic decision but there』s more to it.
植器——就像前面說的，合適的植器大小十分重要。但到底是用塑料盆還是紅陶盆呢？許多人認為這只是單純的審美問題，其實遠非如此。
Plants
simply grow better in plastic containers because more moisture is
available. If you are growing in terra cotta (clay) pots, you will have
to water 3-4 times more often because they dry at an alarming rate. This
is especially true for small sizes.
植物就是在塑料盆里長得更好，因為塑料盆更保水。如果你用紅陶盆，那就要比塑料盆多澆水三至四次，因為紅陶盆實在幹得太快了，對於小盆來說尤為如此。
Most
growers use plastic for 6 inches and smaller and terra cotta for over 6
inches and this works well. Also you will get a more developed better
root system with round pots rather than the square design. Most
importantly, all containers must have a bottom drainage hole.
很多種植者在需要6英寸（15.24厘米）及以下的盆時用塑料盆，6英寸（15.24厘米）以上則用紅陶盆，這個方法很管用。另外，圓盆里的根系會發育得比方盆里的更好。最重要的是，所有的植器都必須有排水孔。

Pests
蟲害
Fortunately
succulent collections are not attractive to most pests. Fungal and
viral attacks are seldom seen so it』s usually just insects that must be
kept in check. Plants and insects are natural companions. If you have
plants then you』ll have insects. If you discover an outbreak of some
insect pest, there is seldom reason for panic. Your job is simply to
keep insects under control. You will never eliminate them completely.
幸好，多肉植物不算太招蟲子。真菌和病毒感染也鮮有發生，因此只要好牢牢地監控蟲害的狀況就好了。植物和蟲子是天生的好基友，只要你有植物，勢必就會有蟲子。如果你在植株上發現了某種蟲子，千萬不要恐慌，只要把蟲害控制住就好了，想完全祛除蟲子幾乎是不可能的。
By
far the most common and persistent insect succulent growers must face
is the ubiquitous mealybug. There are several species of it but it』s the
citrus or greenhouse mealybug that is attracted to succulents. Adults
are about one eighth inch in size and have a white mealy epidermis. They
bear live young (crawlers) in white cottony masses on the underside of
leaves and in cracks and crevices especially on soft new growth. They
exude a sticky sugary substance which is greatly attractive to other
insects such as most ants which will then transport the crawlers to
other plants. Keep ants in check and you automatically control many
other insects.
目前為止，多肉植物上最常見、最牢固的害蟲要數無處不在的粉蚧了。粉蚧有許多種，喜歡多肉的通常是桔粉蚧和
greenhouse
mealybug。它們的成蟲約有八分之一英寸（三毫米）大小，白色粉狀外皮。它們的幼蟲會在葉子背面形成白色絮狀物，還會再柔弱的新生葉子上見縫插針。
它們會分泌一種黏糊糊的蜜液，吸引很多其他昆蟲前來把它們的幼蟲搬到別的植株上，比如螞蟻。注意螞蟻的出沒，這樣你自然就能監視到別的蟲害了。
Succulent
enemy number one is the common mealybug. An infestation can quickly get
out of control such as the one building on this Cyphostemma hardyi.
Look for them on the underside of leaves, on new growth, and on flowers.
You will often have hundreds of tiny crawlers that are less than one
millimeter in size that cannot be seen with the unassisted eye.
粉蚧是多肉的頭號大敵，一旦感染很容易大面積爆發。小心注意葉子的背面、新葉子和花。如果不仔細看，你很可能會錯過上百個細小的幼蟲趴在那。
Mealybug
is easy to control and is seldom fatal unless left unattended. Mites,
scale, and white fly are occasionally attracted to succulents, pose a
more serious problem, and are difficult to eradicate. Mites, which are
not true insects, are voracious sucking pests and are attracted to hot
dry conditions. A poorly ventilated greenhouse full of underwatered
plants is prime territory. Scale and white fly are very persistent and
difficult to eliminate unless caught at the right time in their life
cycle. Volumes of information exists on these pests and a little
research on your part will go a long way in identifying and controlling
them. The internet and your county extension office are excellent
sources for help.
粉蚧很好控制，只要不是放在那不管，它們很少致命。蟎蟲、介殼蟲和粉虱偶爾也會看上多肉，造成更大的麻煩，而
且很難去除。蟎蟲其實並不是昆蟲，它們喜歡吸食植物的汁液，常出沒於炎熱乾燥的地方。如果通風不好的溫室裡面有許多缺水的植株，那簡直是它們的天堂了。介
殼蟲和粉虱很頑固，除非能夠在它們生命周期的特定時段下手，否則很難根除。關於這些蟲害的防治有很多資料，只要自己稍下工夫就能夠很好地辨識和控制了。網
絡和當地農業技術人員是很好的求助對象。
EASY EFFECTIVE CONTROLS - rubbing alcohol on a
Qtip will render the odd mealybug or two harmless but what about
several badly infested plants with hundreds of tiny crawlers embedded in
the delicate growing apex? Try blasts of tap water applied with a
Fogg-It nozzle on a trigger type hose shut-off. A few minutes of
pulsating blasts of ordinary tap water worked in very close in all the
difficult to reach places will render just about any plant squeaky
clean. It will even clean off badly encrusted scale which is a very
difficult job.
便捷的蟲害控制——棉簽上沾些酒精能夠無害地祛除少量的粉蚧。但嚴重感染的植株上面可能趴著好幾百隻小蟲子，尤其是
在生長點附近。這時候就試試沖水吧，用那種可以調節的噴嘴和帶開關的軟管。幾分鐘近距離的脈衝式自來水沖刷足夠把大部分植株的里里外外洗乾淨了。這種辦法
甚至能移除長著該死的蠟質表面的介殼蟲，通常它們可是很難趕走的。
A
FOGG-IT nozzle is a great tool for cleaning plants. It means business
and works wonders for insects, weed seeds, and even spent leaves.
Combine it with a trigger type shut-off and you have a deadly weapon to use on insects.
可以調節的噴嘴是給植株洗澡的利器，無論是對付昆蟲、野草還是枯萎的葉子都藥到病除。再配上一條帶觸髮式開關的軟管，在蟲害面前你將無往不勝。
Fogg-It
nozzles are inexpensive and available from hobby greenhouse suppliers
and good garden centers. Use the blue 4 gpm heavy volume size. You could
even improvise with the kitchen sink sprayer but outside with the
garden hose is usually more practical. This may sound a bit too simple
but try it and see how effective it is.
可調節的噴嘴並不貴，任何園藝用品店裡都能買到。選那種藍色的4加侖每分鐘的大功率產品。你甚至可以用浴室噴頭救急，但用橡膠軟管的更常見一點。也許這聽起來過於簡單了，但只要試一試，你就知道有多管用了。
CHEMICAL
CONTROLS - if things are out of hand and you are dealing with many
badly infested plants, chemical controls are sometimes necessary. The
number one rule is absolutely do not, repeat do not, use petroleum based
products on succulents. These are usually labeled 「liquid」 this or that
and are designated 「EC」 or just 「E」. The petroleum base in EC』s will
severely burn succulents so avoid them at all costs. Systemic pesticides
have become popular but the concept of making the entire plant toxic
creates personal exposure problems beyond what many growers consider
safe.
化學防治——如果事態失去控制，你不得不同時處理好幾棵嚴重感染的植物，化學處理就是必要的了。首要法則是永遠不要，再重複一遍，永遠
不要對多肉使用石油化工產品。這些東西通常標著「液態」這個或那個，寫著「EC」或者就一個「E」字。EC化工產品會嚴重灼傷多肉植物，嚴禁使用。內吸式
殺蟲劑最近很流行，但讓整株植物變得有毒會讓養殖者也暴露在化學農藥中，很多養殖者會覺得不安全。
Most wettable
powders and water based or aqueous suspension insecticides can be used
on succulents with no phytotoxicity. But again what product to use for
what insect requires a little homework on your part. A recommendation
from the garden center or a friend won』t do. Always go slowly when
trying something new. Never apply an untested chemical to your entire
collection. Do a controlled application to just a few test plants
instead.
許多可濕性粉劑和水基懸浮劑殺蟲藥可以安全地用在多肉植物上。但到底用什麼則取決於蟲害的種類，這個就得靠你自己多做功課了。光是聽園藝店或者朋友的建議是不夠的。在嘗試新產品的時候，要逐步地來，永遠不要把沒試驗過的農藥用在你的全部家當上。先用幾株植物試試再說。
Finally
if you are an active collector who frequently acquires plant material
from many sources, then it』s inevitable that you will bring in new
insects. A good hand lens or loupe of 6x-10x therefore becomes a
necessity for inspecting new arrivals and your collection up close and
personal.
最後，如果你是個很狂熱的收集者，總是從不同的渠道購進植物，那你的藏品會不可避免地經常帶來新蟲子。手持式放大鏡或6-10倍的放大鏡是必須的，這樣你才能更好地一一檢查新入門的和舊有的植株。

Basic Equipment List
基本裝備列表
WATERING
- A good watering device with a soft breaker is essential. A simple
hose or watering can with a rose type breaker is fine. We prefer a
bonsai watering nozzle on a hose with some sort of shut-off to regulate
flow. A bonsai nozzle is a super soft breaker fitted to a short wand and
is available from most sources that sell bonsai tools.
澆水——推薦用水流溫和的澆水設備，但軟管或澆水壺也湊合。我們喜歡用能夠調節水流的軟管和盆栽專用的噴嘴，這種噴嘴帶一個短棒，能夠製造非常溫和的水流，許多園藝用品點都有賣。
TWEEZERS - A pair of thin 7"- 9" tweezers is invaluable. Again bonsai type tweezers are best.
鑷子——一把小鑷子是無價之寶，園藝專用的鑷子當然更好。
MAGNIFICATION
- A closeup lens of anywhere from 4x-10x is basic. From a simple
magnifying glass to an optically superior photo loupe, magnification is
essential for controlling pests and studying your plants.
放大鏡——4-10倍的放大鏡就夠了，無論是簡單的放大鏡還是光學顯微鏡都可以，這是控制蟲害和研究植物的必需品。
LABELS
- It"s important to label each plant with genus, species, acquisition
date, and source. When you lose one of your favorites, you at least have
a chance of replacing it with this information. Lead pencil on vinyl
labels is as permanent as we have found. Solar exposure quickly renders
other materials to compost.
標籤——給個植物標註上科屬、品種、購買日期和來源很重要。如果你不幸失去了某個真愛，憑這些信息你至少還能再入一盆。鉛筆寫在塑料標籤上的字能夠保留很久，陽光會讓其他材質的標籤模糊掉。
POTTING
- A good potting tray and trowel are most helpful. A large restaurant
busing tray is great and is readily available from any restaurant
supply. We like one that holds about a cubic foot of mix.
移植工具——好的托盤和鏟子非常有用。餐館用的那種大個托盤非常好用，而且隨便哪個餐館裡都能搞到。我們喜歡用那種剛好能裝下1立方英尺介質的型號。
POTS
- Keep a good supply of pots on hand. Whether you prefer plastic or
terracotta, a nice selection in half inch increments is always in
demand.
植器——要隨時有靠譜的渠道買盆。無論你喜歡塑料盆還是紅陶盆，以每半英寸（1.27厘米）直徑為間隔，每個大小都要備一點。

是這樣的，植物生長的是否茂盛，和根系強弱有很大關係。你的肉肉，長成這樣，如果葉片上沒有蟲害，可能就是根出問題了。

1、長時間不澆水毛細根受損。你澆水頻率是多久一次？目測介質是泥炭+珍珠岩。看起來已經結板了。存水能力下降。冬季氣候乾燥，如果地處北方，室內植物一定要及時補水，特別是家裡是地熱供暖的。不及時的結果就是，植株毛細根死亡，干縮。特別注意小苗，中苗。植物在久旱環境下會進入半休眠狀態或者休眠狀態。這個階段不會生長。我感覺你可能是澆水不及時。土壤結板，根系沒吃到水。

2、蟲害。如果一個植株和同期其他肉肉，生長速度明顯不一樣。很可能有蟲害了。比如說根粉蚧。夏天的話先隔離，其他三季直接翻盤，看看根系附近是否有白絮狀（別把珍珠岩看成白絮）。

平時你也可以。如果有白絮狀，我會把所有土去除，然後用護花神兌水，把肉肉放里泡1~2小時，然後用流水沖乾淨，放避光通風處晾乾。（帶好手套）上盆注意放好防蟲葯，比如說呋喃丹（室外）提前預防

3、土壤鹼化或肥力下降。這也是影響植株生長速度的一個因素。你以後可能會遇到。多肉雖然說是沙漠植物，耐旱，皮實。但也需要營養的。如果平均1~2年換一次盆，介質使用泥炭+顆粒。就不用擔心肥力的問題。如果是使用椰糠等介質，需要人工添加緩釋肥。多肉的生長最好是微酸環境，所以如果鹵煮地處北方或硬水區，土壤容易鹼化，植物生長速度也會降低。可以用雨水，或弱酸配水澆水。（白醋：水=1瓶蓋：2L）我是這樣做的。不過最好使用雨水，連續下雨2天以上，第三天以後的水就可以接了。先沉澱，取上層水。

十二卷類栽培水質的黃金分割點――pH 5.0這是岩大的種植12水質的分析，可能大家上不了仙珍園，我就直接轉了。。。

相信很多北方、上海等地的朋友都感受到這樣一個問題，就是水質太硬！
表現為澆水後，植物表面出現鹽漬（白色的鹽斑）、植物側表面表皮上甚至會有各種類型的鹽晶體（小白點）、土壤表面也會出現各種鹽分析出的狀態，尤其是用赤玉土、活性炭粒等多孔基質做表層土的時候，通過盆底浸水會導致大量鹽分上涌，虹吸到顆粒土表面，風乾形成鹽晶。
這些鹽分來自哪裡？主要有幾方面：
1、來自水質中的「硬度」，即鈣鎂離子，他們可以跟土壤中的磷酸鹽或植物根系分泌的一些有機酸，形成不溶於水的沉澱；當鈣鎂離子毛細作用虹吸到土表或植物側表皮上後，則與空氣中的CO2形成碳酸鹽沉澱。
2、來自土壤，一些基質如火山岩、輕石、蘭花用土中可能在生產製造中含有一部分可溶性鹽分或者固態鈣鎂成分，這些成分經過水質的浸出和植物根系的轉化作用，都有可能變成水質中的鈣鎂離子。
3、來自肥料，幾乎每個愛好者都喜歡用葉面肥噴施，其主要成分就是磷酸二氫鉀，然而這個肥料在特定的水質下會轉化為磷酸一氫鉀，進而形成磷酸根，與鈣鎂結合形成不溶於水的磷酸鈣和磷酸鎂。
4、除鈣鎂離子可以形成肉眼可見的鹽晶外，其他很多鹽分的存在也會形成多種化學惰性的不溶於水或微溶於水的物質。
這些討厭的鹽分對植物有什麼影響呢？
1、影響植物氣孔的正常開放和光合作用，多肉植物的呼吸作用和光合作用雖然不同於大多數植物，但是其氣孔也是存在的，並且分布很廣泛。多肉植物的CAM途徑光合作用一般都是在夜間進行，氣孔此時開放釋放氧氣、吸收CO2（與一般植物不同），假如那些鹽晶體堵塞了氣孔或者阻礙了氣體交換，則嚴重影響植物的正常生理導致生長遲滯。
2、影響根系的正常吸收，由於鈣鎂離子和磷酸根、碳酸根或有機酸的反應是在土壤的液體里，因此形成的沉澱物很細膩微小，他們完全可以「糊住」那些幼嫩的根毛，而根毛才是吸收水分和養分的關鍵部位。很多朋友疑惑為啥我們種出來的植物跟日本人的差距那麼大，人家的又肥又綠，我們的又干又瘦？這裡說，不光是土質和綜合環境有差異，更關鍵的是水質，人家日本的植物根毛髮達，吸水水分快速正常，我們的根毛都被鹽分蓋住了，再澆水也沒用了，根系壽命也短。。。
3、影響體液的滲透壓，除了那些不溶性的鹽分外，一些微溶於水的鹽分，比如部分硫酸鹽也會在析出沉澱和溶於水的平衡中反覆運轉，同時這些鹽分也會影響到植物的蒸騰作用、根毛吸水的平衡，等等多個環節，這些環節會打亂植物體內自身的滲透壓平衡，導致植物狀態異常，比如窗紋的改變、性狀退化和植物萎縮等等。
4、影響美觀，這個不用多說了。。。
5、給栽培過程帶來更大的麻煩，由於這些鹽分的存在，土壤很快會變得布滿鹽晶，赤玉土等顆粒粉化加劇，這些都要讓我們更勤的換盆，更謹慎的度夏。
如何去除這些討厭鹽分的影響？
1、選擇軟水，比如去離子水或純凈水，大家不要擔心這些水裡營養太少，因為土壤里的營養還有很多很多。用過軟水澆花的朋友，可以深深體會到植物的狀態會快速改善，顏色、飽滿度、根系發育、窗紋都會隨之變好，土表的鹽晶也會大幅減少（但短期內難以根除，因為土壤里還有鹽分）。而這種方法缺點就是很麻煩，成本很高，需要常去超市搬水回家。。。家用凈水器的水雖然也除去了部分鹽分，但是總體效果不如瓶裝純凈水或蒸餾水。另外，純凈水一般都是天然弱鹼性pH=7.5~8.0不利於植物吸收，植物喜歡微酸性水。
2、悶養。大家以前總有個誤區，就是覺得悶養為啥長得那麼水靈呢？很多人以為是溫度高、濕度大或者其他什麼什麼的，這些都不是根本，其實悶養形成了一個水分蒸發-回澆這樣一個循環，水分通過白天的蒸騰-晚上的凝結，使得植物在這個過程中不但吸收到了水分，更減少了鹽分（因為蒸發-循環的過程，鹽分沒有增大，水被高效利用了），所以悶養的植物長得肥壯，根本在於水的高效利用，相當於用軟水澆花了。但是悶養會導致植物抗逆性的減弱，畢竟在一個不通風環境下栽培，植物的抗逆性幾乎蕩然無存，夏季或其他病蟲害會導致這些植物瞬間over。
軟水、悶養都有其有利的方面，也有嚴重弊端。大家肯定苦惱於如何妥善解決問題而又盡量減少弊病~~~
這裡為大家推薦一種我近年來發現的新方法——酸化水法：把水質調節pH到5.0附近。
當把水質調節到5.0-5.5這個區間後，水中的磷酸根則會轉變為磷酸二氫根、碳酸根轉變為碳酸氫根，這些陰離子就不會再與鈣鎂離子結合形成沉澱了，剛才提到的種種弊端將會大幅改善。更重要的是，這種調節方法可以更適合於十二卷類的根系發育、植物的生長、水分和肥料的吸水，因為在植物組織培養中，十二卷最適合的pH是5.6，而在土壤栽培中，土壤也會平衡pH，所以我們把盆土栽培十二卷的水質pH定義在5.0~5.5之間。
一段時間以來，我私下介紹給很多朋友採取這樣的方法避免鹽鹼，收效顯著，因此我把pH=5.0稱作十二卷類栽培水質的黃金分割點。植物的主要表現就是飽滿、根系發達、鹽漬無存、性狀呈現良好，植物生長穩定、對肥料和光照增高了響應度。不但不再需要從超市搬軟水而而費錢，更不用悶養增加不確定因素。
如何把水質調節到5.0呢？目前經過試驗，最佳方法是使用鹽酸，其他酸類效果都不好，尤其不要用固體酸或有機酸。
濃鹽酸 500ml，6元錢，化工店有售，很方便買到。鍋爐房、水處理站、清洗房、化驗室、實驗室都會有鹽酸的，朋友們可以找一找，找到1瓶能用幾年！
根據澆水量的多少，提前用大桶儲備好一周的水，用濃鹽酸滴加調節pH，用pH廣泛試紙測定到試紙正黃色或微微泛紅，用手沾點嘗一下，感覺不到酸味就可以了~~（不要怕，我們胃裡的消化液也是鹽酸，醫學上治療消化不良還可以口服稀鹽酸呢！）。這樣的水可以澆、噴都可行，一般使用當天就能看到效果。
是否會有副作用？這個方法我用了2年多了，效果明顯，但是最適用於十二卷類植物，不適用於仙人掌科陸生種（尤其是兜，牡丹，他們更喜歡偏鹼的水質）。
長期使用目前沒有看到明顯的副作用，而只是植物越長越旺。。。但是我覺得可以使用酸化水一段時間後，中間交替使用正常的中性水，這樣可以避免過多的酸性物質積累，而事實上5.0的酸度基本上積累不了什麼酸性，都被植物和土壤平衡掉了。
大家不妨嘗試一下~~：》也歡迎pH5.0受益的朋友把自己的照片貼出來！~~~我也會收集一些照片給大家看看（由於我用的比較早，目前不好找到早期的對比照片了）。

導語：秋季是多肉植物的生長季節，大部分的多肉都變大了一圈，但也有些肉友發現自家的多肉在秋季一直沒有生長，反而越來越小了，這是怎麼回事呢？該如何把多肉養大養肥？

當生長的環境改變太大，像陽台多肉搬出去露養曬太陽、剛買回來的大棚多肉是經常會出現變小這種情況的，大棚里的環境是很適合多肉生長的，這時候買回家養護多肉是需要一段時間適應的，「縮水」也是正常現象，這時候好好養護，等它們適應之後就好了。

根系出了問題也是多肉長不大的原因，秋季很多人澆水都是遵循干透澆透的原則，但有時土壤透氣性的不好，這時候就會有積水在土壤里導致多肉爛根，根系不好就會影響多肉的生長，這時候就需要我們換盆修剪一下根系了。

想把多肉養大必然少不了配土，推薦一種不錯的土壤，也就是腐葉土，這也是種花養多肉的好材料，透氣和保水性好，含有的微量元素特別有利於多肉植物的生長。腐葉土的製作尤其簡單，收集一些白楊樹的落葉堆放在一邊，也可以用大口袋裝著，放一層樹葉，緊接著放一層沒過篩的煤渣，反覆堆放，再澆一些污水上去，最後用煤球渣厚厚的蓋一層上去，然後放在向陽的地方就不用再管了。到了第二年夏季的時候，這些東西就能夠腐熟了，搗碎以後就可以用來種肉或者其它植物了。

腐葉土、煤渣再加上酵素一起使用的話效果非常不錯，不僅能把多肉養的胖嘟嘟的顏色還漂亮，而且不需要花錢就能用上既透氣保水又保肥的材料，大家有興趣的可以嘗試一下。

不少花友用煤渣養多肉，因為煤渣透氣透水，使用效果不比蘭石、輕石或者是植金石的差。煤渣中含有氧化鈣、氧化鐵以及氧化鎂等微量元素，養多肉最適合不過了。最重要的是煤渣不需要花錢買了，和腐葉土混合使用，不僅透氣保水還保肥。

秋季南方地區也不少，多肉出現「縮水」的現象，如果不是氣候環境的原因導致的，就要趕緊解決了，以免多肉傷亡，你們的多肉有出現「縮水」的情況嗎？都是因為什麼原因？

這裡是多肉愛好者的集聚地，分享多肉養護技巧，歡迎關注交流。

如果我跟你說多肉葉子就應該又肥又短，一樓那長篇大論有對的有不對的，你的肉應該只是缺光照，需要通風和光照，水分應該正好

看樣子是缺光。

增加土的顆粒，少水多曬加空氣流通

我曾經也試過吧白牡丹種成這樣子，具體原因不詳，但是我覺得這樣的植株抗性很差，夏天容易出病菌害。題主有打過葯嗎？